I have a 96' sebring conv jx. It has been stalling on me usually after about 20 mins on the highway at 65- 70 mph. After it cooled it restarted but always sputtered and died again upon putting it in gear and driving it. I would tow it home and the next day it started and drove all over town but as soon as I got on the interstate it would stall 20-30 minutes into high sustained speed. So, THEN, the cables got crossed when it was being jumped. It was a loose battery not in a car and the cables on MY car were right, I cant remember if he turned the key or not but the loose battery was hooked up wrong and it smoked and one terminal melted. That day a new battery was put in my car and the car started and backed out of the driveway and died. Same problems. Now it wont really start at all, it cranks but sputters and dies. If we spray fluid directly it revs but sputters as soon as its burned up. Check the gas pressure = its good. But when you press the gas pedal the car just dies, if you try to let it idle it just coughs and sputters till it dies, usually less than 2 minutes. Parts changed: ALL Sensors. I mean ALL. Both O2 sensors, MAP, IAT, EGR, Crankshaft postion, whole Distributor (sensor is in it) Just put a New PCM and STILL THE EXACT SAME. Please help. 90,000 gentle miles on it. Ran fine then it didnt.7 months now, HELP
Has the Check Engine light turned on? If so, start by having the stored fault codes read. They will get you into the right circuit or system with the problem.
Don't overlook the possibility of contaminated fuel. We ran into two cars with that problem on the same day. Fuel was drawn from the test port and thrown onto the ground. It put out a lit match that was thrown onto that fuel.
March, 5, 2011 AT 7:46 PM
Not the gas. It stall on interstate for 3-4 months before it just died all together. After every sensor change it started and drove till it stalled about 1 hour later. Now after all sensors changed and pcm changed it is stalling upon starting. The only code the ignition is throwing is 31 and that is evap system. But a mechanic told me that it cant cause my stalling, just bad emissions? He charged me for that too.
March, 5, 2011 AT 7:58 PM
My first thought was the camshaft position sensor inside the distributor, but you already replaced that. A problem with any of the sensors should be detected by the Engine Computer and it will set a code. The fuel supply system, however, is not monitored. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, you might consider routing it under the wiper arm so you can watch it while you're driving. Unlike GM vehicles, Chrysler fuel pumps rarely quit running while you're driving, but there is a pickup screen in the tank that can get plugged. The typical symptom is after driving for anywhere from a few miles to maybe 30 miles or more, the engine will starve for fuel and die. The problem will be worse during coasting and may run better under acceleration. You would see the pressure drop off on the gauge when that starts to happen.
March, 5, 2011 AT 8:04 PM
So We had already checked the gas pressure.I was "told" that was fine. Would this pick up screen being clogged stop the car from starting. Is this clog something that would start off making the car stall to not running at all? I can start the car, it just dies unless we spray starter fluid.
March, 5, 2011 AT 8:06 PM
Pickup screen is or is not fuel filter by the way
March, 5, 2011 AT 8:30 PM
It's not the fuel filter. The screen is on the end of the pickup tube inside the gas tank. It takes a while for it to collapse while driving so it typically won't cause a no-start condition. When mine created a problem, it was packed with rust-colored mud.
It IS possible for the pump to fail to start up when you try to start the engine, but you would find 0 psi at the test port. Banging on the tank while a helper cranks the engine will often get them started. You have a good clue that there is spark because it will run on starting fluid. Having spark rules out a problem with the sensors that must work for the fuel pump to turn on. Another potential clue is if you can't hear the hum of the pump for one second after turning on the ignition switch.
Based on your description of the problem, the best test is to monitor fuel pressure when driving or when trying to start the engine. That way you'll know for sure which system needs to be diagnosed. The pressure can check fine in the shop during a quick check, but what's important in this case is what happens when the problem acts up.
March, 5, 2011 AT 9:10 PM
Well, if I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump and cleaned out the tank would that solve any problem if there was one. All that testing makes my head hurt cuz all mechanics say something different. Money isnt the issue right now, its my only car. So if there is a fuel problem even if its 1-2psi wont replaceing both solve that?
March, 5, 2011 AT 10:02 PM
Rather than being another guy with another opinion that will likely be wrong, I'd feel better knowing for sure before I send you out to replace parts. Can you hear the fuel pump running? Remember, it will only run for one second after turning on the ignition switch, then again during engine cranking. You might want to bypass the fuel pump relay so you can listen to see if the pump is running without having to crank the engine. Use this diagram with the matching relay. Jump terminals 30 and 87 with a stretched out paper clip or jump the two terminals with the arrows. Then you should be able to hear the pump easily by the tank.