Left and right are always from the driver's seat. I too was thrown by the use of "R/S". I guess it took too much work to write "right side".
The outer tie rod end is a fairly standard design. Loosen the lock nut, then remove the hex nut under the cotter pin. No need to remove the cotter pin if it's rusted in place. Just shear it off with the nut. If you bend the cotter pin first, you can fit a six-point deep socket on the nut. Once the nut is all the way off, bang on the steering arm to shock the tapered stud loose.
The ball joint is something different than anyone has used before but GM is famous for trying out new designs on the cars they sell. It just bolts to the control arm, then the tapered stud apparently goes into the strut housing. I can't find a picture of the housing because on your car they only replace the cartridge when the strut is weak or leaking. They leave the old rusty housing on the car. Be sure to use a click-type torque wrench on the four bolts and tighten them to the specs given on the sheet that will come with the ball joint.
Saturday, December 8th, 2012 AT 3:17 AM