Crank no start

904PETIT

MEMBER
1995 JEEP WANGLER YJ
4 CYL
4WD
MANUAL
150,000 MILES

So, I’ve read throughout all the Jeep questions on this website, but nobody seems to be having the exact issue as me. I replaced the fuel pump because I didn’t hear it Turing on when I turned the key. After doing so she started back up perfectly and also replaced the fuel filter. Running fine for a while. Then one day while parked it just shut off. I waited a while and it started to back up. Did that three times until the last time it shut off while driving and wouldn’t crank back up even after sitting, to not hear the fuel pump starting up again. The tank has gas. Now I do have a hole in the cap of my distributor so how she was running while she was not sure but also don’t think that’s the issue. What might be causing the fuel pump to just not work for a second time even after replacing? The only thing I can think of its connection issues between the battery and the pump but if anyone might possibly know the exact issue due to the pump just failing, please let me know.

The vehicle listed above is a Wrangler.

5 Replies

AL514

MECHANIC
4,127 POSTS

Hello, is this the Wrangler 2.5L? And if so, is it the Rio Grande or S sub model?
First does the check engine light come on while cranking? It should for a few seconds, these Jeeps sometimes have issues with water intrusion into the ECM and have trouble grounding the ASD relay circuit. Sometimes it takes longer to ground the circuit or just fails altogether. I'm leaving the wiring diagram for the fuel pump circuit and the ASD relay, because the ASD Relay and Fuel pump relay are controlled on the same circuit at the ECM.
There's a ground wire behind the distributor that's for the fuel pump, check that too and see if you're getting power at the fuel pump while cranking.
Have you done a fuel pressure test yet? I know you can't hear the pump, but if the check engine light is not coming on while cranking the ECM may not be getting powered up.
Let me know if I have the correct vehicle information.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

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Monday, January 17th, 2022 AT 11:14 AM

904PETIT

MEMBER
3 POSTS

So, the Jeep is a 2.5l tj and I’m sure it’s the sub model. Now we do have fuel pressure because we did end up getting a leak out of the fuel rail on the front after just turning over the key which we had fixed but we most definitely have fuel pressure. But I’ll check with it tomorrow about the engine light and so forth and let you know. Thanks for the information.

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Monday, January 17th, 2022 AT 4:46 PM

AL514

MECHANIC
4,127 POSTS

You should really check with a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. You can have 10PSI of pressure and it will still shoot out of a leaking area. If you're not hearing the pump at all, the fuel pressure is not going to be up where it should be. The spec below says with vacuum line and without, that is most likely just for a fuel pressure regulator or dampener. If you do have around 30-40PSI at the Key On 2 second prime, then here is a quick guide to check for spark. Let us know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

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Monday, January 17th, 2022 AT 5:08 PM

904PETIT

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Hey, so, I made a whole new wiring harness with a switch, and we connected it from the batter to the pump and it flicks right on. It started right back up and never drove better. Next morning it’s stuttering again. I was driving fine and while I went to back up, it stalled and tried starting it back up and it won’t. Thinking maybe at this point it might have to just be the spark plugs, distributor (has a crack in the cap) and or the grounds.

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Monday, January 24th, 2022 AT 5:07 AM

AL514

MECHANIC
4,127 POSTS

Did you recheck your wiring back to the pump? it didn't burn up did. the fuel pump will draw some current. Why don't you check to see if you have spark instead of just replacing parts? That only gets expensive. Here's a few guides going over the basics, if the distributor cap has a hole in it, it should have been replaced already. If you run a wire to the fuel pump, I suggest you put a 10amp fuse on the circuit, because if the fuel pump is struggling it will over draw on amps and burn up that wire. It's not a good idea to be running new wires to components because then you have stray circuits that could short out at any time and possibly burn up the ECM. If you need any specific wiring diagrams let us know. That way you can get the wiring all straightened out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester