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Engine revs

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Check out dist cap order all looks good in pics


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/198357_Graphic_55.jpg

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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DINKUS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD PROBE
  • 213,000 MILES
Idle RPM seems to fluctuate but most of the time is over 1000 RPM (usually up around 1500 RPM). It can and does range anywhere from 1700 RPM to a low of say 300 RPM but as I say the majority of the time over 1000. Doesnt seem to be any rhyme or reason to it. One shop told me it could be the throttle body sensor (did he mean throttle position sensor?) And /or the throttle body itself. Another shop said this was wrong; the only thing a defective throttle position sensor will do is cause your car to stall! And what does the idle air control valve do? Could this be the problem? Someone else said something about vacuum lines. Any help appreciated. Thanks very much.

Bruce
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KIRKH34
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
Yep, cap looks exactly like that, made sure the wires were all going to the right places. I'm stumped
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Go to this link for more information:https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-idles-too-high
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Me too from what you say this car should run something got to be wrong with belt timing. When belt went back on and tensioner in place did you hand turn engine 2 revolutions and recheck all marks line up?
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KIRKH34
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
Yes I double checked everything to see if it was still good to go. When I had the car running very badly before. I had done the timing but the camshaft sprocket marks were kind of pointing down towards each other rather than straight across, but that's just the way the engine fell by itself, this time I used a cam locking tool to align the sprockets straight across like the book says. As you can see the marks definitely look aligned on the camshaft sprockets, and I made sure the crankshaft was right on, there is a little groove that lines up w/ a mark
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Check for an exhaust restriction, converter or muffler may be plugged, EGR stuck open. 190 PSI= timing is good. Check for stored codes, and fuel pressure.
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KIRKH34
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
I can feel exhaust coming out the back normally i'd say. What is the easiest way to test if the egr valve is stuck open? I'm going to list all the codes i've ever had before I cleared them. This is before I replaced anything.

Eec-iv 3 digit codes:

116 Out of range Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)

121 Outside range throttle position sensor
(TPS)

159 Outside range mass air flow sensor (MAF)

214 CID circuit failure

.I had cleaned the MAF sensor and the iac valve. So I figured those 2 codes showed up because I had disconnected some things. I replaced the disty cause of the 214 code.
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
D1CASE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD PROBE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 357,000 MILES
Engine Performance problem
1994 Ford Probe 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 357000 miles

Engone was running reasonably fine this fall, I had some clutch work done, then winter rolled in with colder temperatures.

Now When first starting and often while running, the engine will idle at varying speeds between 1200 and 1800 rpm. Occasionally when the engine has warmed up, the idle will return to normal.
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
What about the TPS? If this is bad, PCM wont know where the throttle is. Test it with an ohm meter, needle should move smoothly as you move the throttle from closed to fully open. ANY jerking and it needs to be replaced. ECT is cheap, but acts as the choke, so replace that anyway. Have you rechecked the codes now? If MAF is still showing, the cleaning didnt work, and it should also be replaced. It controls fuel injector pulse width.
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Check your throttle body and throttle plate, clean it real good and see what happens. That may clear it right up, also check for small vacuum leaks, if this does not fix your problem then get back to me
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KIRKH34
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
I check the voltage of the tps and w/ it closed its about.9 volts and with it open it goes all the way up to about 4.5 volts. I checked codes and I still get the TPS code, but that came on as soon as I unplugged it. That's why I think it came on last time I unplugged it. There are no other codes that show. I tried to remove the ECT sensor to test it, but I don't have the right socket so I need to go find one. Would the ect sensor cause it to do what it's doing? The first thing that happened to me was my water pump going out on a 500 mile drive, so I drove about 250 miles having to stop every 15 minutes to refill my radiator
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Your head gasket is blown
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KIRKH34
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
What are the different ways I can test to see if this is true? It seems like a major job. I have done a compression test with 190 psi in all cylinders. When it was running, I never noticed any smoke coming out the exhaust or smells and my oil looks regular.
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Get a block test kit at the parts store, this tests for the presence of hydrocarbons in the antifreeze, pressure test the cooling system, and compression leak down test are all ways to find out. Also any foam or bubbles in the radiator? Coolant is dissapearing with no leaks visible?
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HESTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 FORD PROBE
My mothers ford probe 93 gt 6cyl will suddenly either drop idle or rev like crazy. She has recently changed the front o2 sensor and found same problems still occuring. Any suggestions to make her life a little less stressful? Please help. :O
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SWADLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Don't know if this is in any way similar to the potential throttle problem I reported on my escort diesel on 3/4 which remains unfixed but a local gararage (who couldn't get to the root of the problem) thought it might be a fuel pump problem i.E. Where some flap or other gets stuck open and causes the engine to race away. Sorry thats a bit non-tech but thought it worth mentioning.
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KIRKH34
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
So far I have tested for hydrocarbons and i'm all good there. No hyrdocarbons

i have recently started the engine and I tried to let it warm up a bit. The engine surged from about 200rpms to 1000 rpms just for a second, then back down then my car gave a code ( I was in diagnostic mode)

412 Engine speed during self test too low

i also had another code later on that I do not understand

522 Neutral/drive switch (NDS)

these are from the eec-iv tests
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) Ground Circuits 1. Using a DVOM, check for continuity to ground on PCM terminals No. 40 and 60. See Fig. 1 . Resistance should be zero ohms. If resistance is not zero ohms, repair open to ground. 2. Using a voltmeter, touch negative lead of voltmeter to a good ground. Touch positive lead of voltmeter to each ground terminal. With vehicle running, voltmeter should indicate less than 0.5 volt. If voltmeter reading is greater than 0.5 volt, check for open circuit, corrosion and loose connection on ground lead. Power Circuits Using a voltmeter, check for battery voltage between PCM terminal No. 1 (KAPWR) and ground. See Fig. 1 . Check for battery voltage at terminals No. 37 and 57 (VPWR). If battery voltage is not present, EEC power relay is not supplying power. See CIRCUIT TEST B in G - EEC-IV TESTS W/CODES article in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section. 522= Vehicle not in park or neutral during test?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_probepcm_1.jpg


IAC( Idle air control valve, it's bolted to the throttle body and clutch pedal position switch. Check email for testing proceedures.
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KIRKH34
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
I went through the steps for the IAC and it has good voltage coming to it and good resistance. I could not get to the steps where it talks about the PCM and a breakout box. What is a breakout box and where can I get one?
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Sunday, October 22nd, 2017 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)

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