Fuel is not reaching cylinders, will not start

Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
I have an XLT model. I have fuel spraying out of the shrader valve on the fuel rail and both wires on the injectors have power with key on. When attempting to start with test light probed in wires the light is not flashing. The truck will not start and shut off on the side of the road. I have not been able to get it started since. I can get it to crank with starting fluid. I have checked the relay and ICM both are functioning properly. Kind of stumped on this.
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Saturday, August 2nd, 2014 AT 12:38 PM

31 Replies

Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Just to add, checking for voltage at the two injector wires, key on, is not valid. The computer will not ground the injectors without rpm signal. The engine has to be cranking in order to get rpm signal.

Are you saying the engine will start and run with starter fluid?

If you stay on the same post, I will know if your asking another question? If you make a new post, I will not know. If you had rather talk to somebody else, that is fine too.
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Saturday, August 2nd, 2014 AT 3:13 PM
Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
No, I can get the engine to start on starting fluid while starting big with the assistance of the starting fluid the fuel injectors are not pulsing with my test light. I had my ICM tested and it comes out fine.
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Saturday, August 2nd, 2014 AT 6:23 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
How did you check for an injector pulse, use a noid light? There is no ground with key on. The engine has to be cranking when you test. The ground is controlled by your computer which pulses the ground on and off.

When there is no ground, there will be voltage on both wires at the injector.

Did you check proper fuel pressure?
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Sunday, August 3rd, 2014 AT 8:56 AM
Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
I checked the voltage with a light tester. I do not have an noid light. I was cranking the engine while I had the test light probed in the injector. The engine will start when I spray it with starting fluid. I checked the relays in the power distribution box under the hood as well as under the dash fuse box. I do not have access to a fuel pressure gauge but when I push the shrader valve down on the fuel rail I have a strong spray that sprays up.
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Sunday, August 3rd, 2014 AT 9:05 AM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Can you check for applicable trouble codes? The datalink connector should be either under the hood close to fuse box, or under the dash. Note the diagram. The top jumper may get the mil on the dash to flash, mil lamp, you count the flashes to get the codes, either two digit or three digit codes. Key on, no crank.

The bottom part of picture shows how to use testlight to flash codes, you would still have to hook up the upper jumper wire.
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Sunday, August 3rd, 2014 AT 12:34 PM
Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
Okay, so I hook the jumper wire and my test light up like the diagram shows and with the key off the light comes on, but when I turn the key on the light goes off and does not flash at all.
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Sunday, August 3rd, 2014 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
If you just use the upper jumper and no test light, does the mil on the dash start flashing, with key on? If not, I am stumped, maybe a problem with computer?

I just cannot see much from here.
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Sunday, August 3rd, 2014 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
No, my check engine light does not work at all on the truck. I already had the computer checked and it is fine. Any idea's on the fuel inertia switch because I had to bypass that in order to get the fuel pump to come on. But it is running constantly with the key on not just for a few seconds to prime the engine.
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Sunday, August 3rd, 2014 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
Also, the fuel inertia switch has no power to it unless the button is tripped. I manually reset it an then it has no power when I reset it.
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Sunday, August 3rd, 2014 AT 3:14 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
The inertia switch gets voltage from the fuel pump relay.
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Monday, August 4th, 2014 AT 7:05 AM
Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
I understand that. I have power at my relay switch but when I turn the key to the on position it has no power for the three to five seconds while the pump is priming. I have switched the relays our and still same effect. Also, while I am under the hood and have my wife turn the key on I do not hear the fuel pump relay click on like I hear EEC relay. I am not sure if I have a bad ground somewhere or something but I have checked everything I know. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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Monday, August 4th, 2014 AT 5:05 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
The computer grounds the coil side of fuel pump relay in order to energize.
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Tuesday, August 5th, 2014 AT 6:45 AM
Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
Okay, so here is what I have found out. When I unplug the fuel inertia switch I have power to the green and yellow wire, but when it is plugged in and the button is pushed down I have no power to either of the wires. So I unplugged it and connected the green switch had power to it an connect it to the pink and black that you showed going to the fuel pump and I had no more power to the green wire. So does that mean I have a short in the pink and black wire or what else could cause me to not have power going there?Also, when I run a wire from the battery to the pink wire the pump runs constantly and does not shut off until I disconnect it from the battery.
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Tuesday, August 5th, 2014 AT 11:54 AM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Did you check voltage at the coil/control side of relay? The relay has two sides, the coil side/control, red wire is voltage, light blue wire with orange tracer is ground, controlled by the computer. During the initial prime, the computer grounds the blue wire for a few seconds, then during cranking, if no rpm signal, the ground will be removed.

The load side of relay is the line with arrow head. When relay is energized, that line with arrowhead moves to the other terminal and voltage goes to fuel pump.

If no rpm signal when cranking, no fuel pump action and no injector ground. With distributorless ignition, the rpm signal comes from crank sensor.
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Wednesday, August 6th, 2014 AT 7:06 AM
Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
Okay, I have power to the red and blue with orange Traver in it is that what I am suppose to have?
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Wednesday, August 6th, 2014 AT 1:10 PM
Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
I know that but when the button is down on the switch I have no power to the switch unless I disconnect it. But with it disconnect and I straight wire cutting the switch out I have no power.
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Wednesday, August 6th, 2014 AT 1:41 PM
Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
Sorry about the last message, I thought you replied but I was on the wrong page.
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Wednesday, August 6th, 2014 AT 1:47 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
It sounds to me like the computer is not grounding the coil side of relay, blue wire.
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Wednesday, August 6th, 2014 AT 3:19 PM
Tiny
DEB74
  • MEMBER
Can I ground it? I put a ground wire from the blue and orange wire to the ground on the fender and still made no difference. Where should I ground it at?
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Wednesday, August 6th, 2014 AT 4:00 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Does terminal 30 have voltage? You can use jumper wire between cavity 30 and cavity 87, the pump should run?
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Thursday, August 7th, 2014 AT 6:37 AM

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