Wow. That has to be the longest sentence I've ever tried to read! You need to use some punctuation, otherwise it can be read a number of ways, and you know I'm going to read it wrong. I did figure out some of the bell housing bolts are missing which is a sign of poor workmanship. You wouldn't accept that from a mechanic. There has to be at least some of the bolts in there, otherwise the engine and transmission would separate and you wouldn't go anywhere. It might even be possible to break off the input shaft from the transmission.
Resurfacing the flywheel is not necessary and will not cause early failure of the new clutch disc. If the flywheel has hot spots or is warped, you'll get a shudder as you let the clutch out, but once the clutch is fully-engaged, that shudder will stop. It IS customary to have the flywheel resurfaced when a mechanic is doing the repair, but that's only for customer satisfaction and to insure the quality of the repair.
The only time any wear takes place on a clutch disc is during the momentary slipping when you're engaging the clutch, particularly when you're starting out from a stop. Rocking the car to get unstuck will cause probably as much wear as a year of normal driving.
To have brake fluid running down inside the car tells me you do not have power brakes, and the rear seal is leaking on the back of the master cylinder. That in itself is not a safety concern until the brake fluid level gets low enough that air gets into the system. If you're referring to the master cylinder for the clutch, the same thing is happening and will eventually prevent you from releasing the clutch when the pedal is pushed.
The best approach to all of this is to make a list of all the issues, then let a mechanic inspect the car. You didn't list the mileage, but given the age of the car, your money might be better spent on a different one. There could also be some very inexpensive solutions that won't be there if you wait too long.
Saturday, May 2nd, 2015 AT 9:18 PM