1993 Honda Prelude Clutch? Transmission? HELP!

  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
I have a 1993 Honda Prelude 2.2L DOHC H22A1 VTEC with manual transmission. So-the mechanical repair that has been done by my ex in the past is pretty unique to say the very least. But last year he put in 2 different clutches as I'm sure the fact he never resurfaced the flywheel during either job is probably why the clutch typically burns up so fast And that I am aware of. But the bolts also are not in the bellhousing. The car has drove just fine even with no bolts and the last clutch put in was in September or October of last year, well I was driving the car (which I drove it all day every day and never had a problem til my birthday wheN I got stuck in mud and couldn't get the car unstuck I tried rocking it by going reverse to first and when I was attempting to rock the car I could clearly smell the clutch from being worked, well on the drive home I started overheating too add to a already bad day) at that point I called it a day I called my friend and had my car loaded up on the trailer and he took it to his mechanic shop and when I got the car on the way of come to find it was the heater core hose has split or had a big hole in it and so a friend of mine replaced by and at the time he was replacing my heater core hose he thought he would be a good idea to go ahead and to add those bolts to the bell housing so he put bolts in and leveled out the transmission because it was all set the next morning I got in my car and I was driving my car for about 3 hours but in those 3 hours probably drove no more than 40 to 50 miles and my temperature gauge inside my car said my car was normal and I had no reason to suspect otherwise I came to a stop sign and iwas on an incline at the time and I went to make a left hand turn and put it in the first and the car seemed to go just fine and then in between shifting gears all the sudden it felt like I was in the wrong here so I down shifted still cuttin got the car to really move it was really really hard to get it gain speed I'm out the car maybe two miles further down the road before I knew to pull over even though my temperature gauge stayed normal I could smell I don't know if it was from me constantly frantically trying to go from first to second to try to get some kind of speed or if it was from the actual motor itself because come to find when I pulled over the car was not normal temperature it was overheating porn smoke everywhere some how some way my bleed valve for my call it wasn't tighten down and antifreeze was all over my motor clear up to the firewall! So I let the car cool down, actually left it parked there with a couple days and later went back and put coolant in it and tightened the bleed valve that was unscrewed an when to go put the car in first and car would not go anywhere or stall when I release the clutch I can shift through all the gears with the car running and it continues to run but the car will not move it does that in all the gears including reverse I've tried to have somebody push me from the back tI gain some speed to see if maybe I could shift and start in higher gear and that did not work either I know my master cylinder is bad because I have moisture under my pedal. I need help with this issues to know where to start with what the problem could be could the master cylinder really pleased then the clutch from engaging and disengaging to the extent that it's doing right now or and I'm looking at a whole nother transmission or where do I even begin?
Do you
have the same problem?
Saturday, May 2nd, 2015 AT 5:14 PM

1 Reply

Wow. That has to be the longest sentence I've ever tried to read! You need to use some punctuation, otherwise it can be read a number of ways, and you know I'm going to read it wrong. I did figure out some of the bell housing bolts are missing which is a sign of poor workmanship. You wouldn't accept that from a mechanic. There has to be at least some of the bolts in there, otherwise the engine and transmission would separate and you wouldn't go anywhere. It might even be possible to break off the input shaft from the transmission.

Resurfacing the flywheel is not necessary and will not cause early failure of the new clutch disc. If the flywheel has hot spots or is warped, you'll get a shudder as you let the clutch out, but once the clutch is fully-engaged, that shudder will stop. It IS customary to have the flywheel resurfaced when a mechanic is doing the repair, but that's only for customer satisfaction and to insure the quality of the repair.

The only time any wear takes place on a clutch disc is during the momentary slipping when you're engaging the clutch, particularly when you're starting out from a stop. Rocking the car to get unstuck will cause probably as much wear as a year of normal driving.

To have brake fluid running down inside the car tells me you do not have power brakes, and the rear seal is leaking on the back of the master cylinder. That in itself is not a safety concern until the brake fluid level gets low enough that air gets into the system. If you're referring to the master cylinder for the clutch, the same thing is happening and will eventually prevent you from releasing the clutch when the pedal is pushed.

The best approach to all of this is to make a list of all the issues, then let a mechanic inspect the car. You didn't list the mileage, but given the age of the car, your money might be better spent on a different one. There could also be some very inexpensive solutions that won't be there if you wait too long.
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Saturday, May 2nd, 2015 AT 9:18 PM

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