I have a 92 Toyota Camry that stalls after 20 minutes and will not restart. The next morning it will restart. Been testing it in the driveway and after 20 min it will stall out. I have replaced the fuel filter, cap, rotor and plugs. Engine runs fine and idles down while worming up. By chance last night I had my test meter on the test terminal FP and ground watching the power to the fuel pump. The engine stalled as if you turned the ignition off but the power to the fuel pump continued for a couple of seconds ruling out the EFI relay and the Circuit opening relay.I hit her with starting fluid to see if she had an ignition problem and she did sputter but would not start. I'm trying to rule out the fuel pump pressure because she shuts down so cleanly without as much as a sputter. Not sure if there is something else that could cause it that I may be overlooking.
Check your fuel pressure it may be a tad bit low and is taking a while to affect your car. It should be 38-44 psi if it's lower then it wil need replacing. I am sending the chart. Pay attention to footnote #1. It tells you how to do this correctly.
July, 2, 2011 AT 10:08 PM
Check and test the airflow meter this the one that grounds the COR to power the fuel pump-BTDT or do it my way in the DLC jumper Batt to Fp this will power it when you turn key on and stay running let us know-
July, 2, 2011 AT 10:47 PM
Tested the fuel pump and with ignition on and jumper between fp and b+ the fuel pressure was 44psi. Started engine and left vacuum line attached and pressure stayed at 36 psi right up to the engine stalling 20 minutes later. Tried to restart but all she would do is turn over. Pressure stayed at 45 psi during cranking. Tested water temp sensor and read 204 ohms but not sure if my meter has some variation. I will test the air flow meter. Engine seams to die 3 seconds before the fuel pump shuts down. If it was the air flow meter wouldn't it break my pump circuit to shut it down? Only thing I can see now that may be happening is that I'm loosing my fuel injectors or the computer is shutting the injectors down. Unfortunately I do not have anything that I can test the injectors circuit as far as I know. Manual says not to use a meter but to use a light that I do not have.
July, 2, 2011 AT 11:04 PM
Tested the air flow vacuum meter and with ignition on 5 volts incoming power. Checked the sensor and with engine not running had 3.55 volts. Put vacuum on sensor and voltage fluctuated down as vacuum came up.
July, 2, 2011 AT 11:13 PM
Remove jumper from the DLC and block open the AF meter flap and retest -see what happens
July, 2, 2011 AT 11:14 PM
Check if the exhaust system is restricted due to a clogged catalytic converter-
July, 2, 2011 AT 11:38 PM
This car has a vacuum sensor. And not a MAS with flap. You may be onto something with the converter. Past experience with converters is that they restrict flow but will run until you put power to it. The converter was replaced 35,000 miles ago.I'm thinking that I may have to check and see if my injectors are shutting down. Do you know a good way to test them?