TRUCK STALLS WHEN ENGINE HOT (AFTER 15 MIN OF DRIVING 45+MPH) AND THEN SLOWING DOWN OR IDLING AT STOP SIGN

  • Tiny
  • Hadia
  • Member

Sorry for late reply.
I finally bought me a Fuel Pressure gauge with correct Banjo fitting and tested the pressure with the following results: Switch to ON
Measured 46 psi (Spec: 38 44 psi)

With vacuum hose from pressure regulator disconnected and plugged, engine started: Measured 46 psi (Spec: 38 44 psi)
Note: Keeping the vacuum hose plugged or not plugged did not make a change in readings!

Vacuum hose reconnected and engine idling: Measured 39 psi (Spec: 33 37 psi)

Engine stopped: Dropped to 21 psi and within a couple of seconds drops to about 5 psi. (Spec says that it should remain at 21 psi for 5 minutes after the engine is stopped)

Firstly, these readings are on the high end of the spec (and slightly more).
Secondly, after the engine is stopped it does not hold the 21 psi for long.

Question: Since the reading are high, does it mean the fuel pump and fuel filter are in
working properly as they should?

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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 7:03 PM
  • Tiny
  • rivermikerat
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It sounds like the filter and pump are working. But, it sounds like the check valve in the pump has failed.

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Tuesday, March 27th, 2012 AT 6:12 AM
  • Tiny
  • Hadia
  • Member

Thank you. Before I mess with the check valve, theoretically, would check valve failure create the condition that would make the 4 Runner stall while idling at stop light, or is this just another issue with my 4 Runner?

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Tuesday, March 27th, 2012 AT 3:32 PM
  • Tiny
  • rivermikerat
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It depends on the type of failure with the check valve. It could be experiencing an intermittent failure where it isn't allowing enough pressure to the injectors occasionally, and not holding pressure properly.

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Tuesday, March 27th, 2012 AT 9:37 PM
  • Tiny
  • Hadia
  • Member

Thank you again. I assume the check valve is part of the pump and therefore per your diagnosis, the pump needs to be replaced. I will look into this. So far, $846 and going up.
Though I have checked all I could for vacuum leak, I wish I could find an easy and inexpensive way to smoke test the car for leaks before anything else. If I was to do a smoke test for leaks, where would be the best point of smoke entry. Someone suggested the brake booster vacuum hose. Is this an ideal point of smoke entry?

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Wednesday, March 28th, 2012 AT 12:31 AM
  • Tiny
  • rivermikerat
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Yes. It's the one most often used.

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Wednesday, March 28th, 2012 AT 2:13 AM
  • Tiny
  • rivermikerat
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You may be able to use carb and choke or brake cleaner to check for vacuum leaks, also.

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Wednesday, March 28th, 2012 AT 2:14 AM
  • Tiny
  • Hadia
  • Member

Sorry for long intervals between reply. I work on the truck whenever I get a chance and today I smoke tested the vacuum lines using my homemade smoke machine (A 12v air pump, a pickle jar, a few fittings and pieces of tubes and some mosquito repellent coil). The only thing I had to buy was the repellent. Sealed the air filter and introduced the smoke through the brake booster vacuum hose. The only smoke I witnessed was from under the cap of the EGR Vacuum Modulator and from around the Mass Airflow Sensor. Inside the Modulator cap there is a small filter and still in place. Is it possible or expected that because the engine is not running and the EGR Vacuum is inactive therefore the smoke backs up in the Modulator and leaks out? Any comments or suggestions?
Note: I tried to take a few pics but unfortunately, the smoke was not visible in the photos.

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Monday, April 9th, 2012 AT 10:43 PM
  • Tiny
  • rivermikerat
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An you apply vacuum to it to test it?

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Tuesday, April 10th, 2012 AT 3:10 AM
  • Tiny
  • Hadia
  • Member

No vacuum applied. With engine not running but ignition on ON so that I can run the pump, I pumped smoke into the system to find any leaks. Smoke appeared from under the cap of the EGR Vacuum Modulator and from around the Mass Airflow Sensor.

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Tuesday, April 10th, 2012 AT 6:44 AM

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