1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Engine stalling problem

JRBOHLEN

MEMBER
1989 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS
106,000 MILES

Hi, I have an 89 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, and as soon as the motor has a load put on it while driving, it dies. It just completely cuts off. No sputtering, in fact, sometimes its hard to notice. After pulling over, it may start or it may not. It cranks fine, and it tries to start but can't. Fuel pressure is fine. This is what we have replaced so far; fuel pump, ECM, MAF sensor, Ignition module, Temp sensor, crank sensor, and all 3 coils. It seems that something gets hot and kills the motor. After sitting for 2 to 3 hours it will start right up. We have had a snap-on diagnostics computer on it and it will throw no codes. We are in need of sincere help, smart ass comments don't help. Thanks in advance.

Sunday, October 27th, 2013 AT 9:19 AM

3 Replies

WRENCHTECH

MECHANIC
20,761 POSTS

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

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Sunday, October 27th, 2013 AT 9:52 AM

JRBOHLEN

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Sometimes it will run like a top, but after dying when I put a load on the motor it fails to start. When it does try to start, it cranks, it fires, and it dies, all in a matter of 2 seconds. After sitting for an hour or so, it will fire right back up. This is a notorious issue with these cars. Today I started it and it started fine, so I got on the highway and accelerated, and when it hit about 45 it died, just like someone turned off the key. After that, it did the crank, fire and die thing for about an hour until I could limp back home, only to have it die in the driveway. After putting it in park, I revved the motor a few times and it ran like a new car. However, after putting it back into drive, it made it about 30-40 feet before the motor just cut off again. Once again, It did the crank, fire, die thing again. I've researched this online and could it be a bad battery? The car test drove great with a different battery, and I'm wondering if maybe the battery is refusing volts and spiking the ECM, killing the car. If this isn't possible, fill me in on your other theories. I really don't know what to do with this one.

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Sunday, October 27th, 2013 AT 12:29 PM

WRENCHTECH