Engine stalls out?

Also the turning signals work when they want to.looks like left signal is wired straight to the turning signal shifter.news to know gap on plugs.I've heard 35 and 60.set at 35 now.this is a 1500 4x4 5.7 liter 350 small block engine

shut off and stalls out are the same i would look for vacuum leak at base of the throttle body and go over this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back. Roy

Understand. More like hesitates in drive at light.have to give it a little gas while pushing brake pedal.I've looked for leaks there and replaced a few vac lines.but ill double keep check.but it is worse in reverse. That's when it shuts off

What's the correct sparkplug gap

won't start without starting fluid and the engine stalls when I take my foot completly off the pedal. New fuel pump, works fine, no problem getting fuel to the throttle body but when I turn the engine over to start theres no mist from the injectors. When I do get going I can't take my foot off the pedal ever.

Sounds like the pressure regulator. There are two types of injectors on Chevy, the 220 and the 700 the top is 220.

I only recieved part of the first sentence of your reply and the diagrams.

please disregard i see now , sorry

My truck will idle and then start to die and it keeps doing that till it just does die what could be the problem

Clean out the idle air control valve and test the throttle position sensor.

This truck has a 350 throttle body fuel injection system. The problem is that it will start without even touching the gas but, it only runs about 5 seconds and then shuts down. We have replaced the idle air oxgen sensor, fuel presure regulator and all the seals in the throttle body. It has a new starter, battery wires, alternator, ignition module, cap and rotor, plugs and wires. The fuel pump is working I just don't know what to do next !

Check the fuel pressure, the fuel pump might be coming on but is it producing the correct fuel pressure. Also have these things checked out-coolant temperature and throttle position sensors, idle air control valve/air bypass passage could be clogged up.

I just built a 350 for my truck
Crane cam 280duration 480 lift
Vortec heads and tbi intake conversion
Headers
New plugs and wires
It idles okay until it "starts" to warm up I'm guessing the thermostat is bad but anyways
It starts to idle weird like it wants to die
It stutters and spits as I'm accelerating
Egr has been blocked off so that ain't an issue.
No matter what I set timing to it does not change the stutter or miss. Am I missing something I don't know what to do

you may not be getting enough fuel or not have enough back pressure. tbi unit can only give so much fuel Or the ecm may need to be remapped for the cam and different heads although vortec heads aren't any larger than what you have or had. but they put fuel into the cylinder differently also check for a vacuum leak as well.

I found out that the plugs were fouled but I gotta ask could a flywheel make a knocking noise that goes away under acceleration?

if it's an automatic then probably your torque converter bolts have loosened that is normally what it is. they loosen up and hit the back of the block so check it then if they are take them out and put blue Loctite on them then retighten about 40-50 ft lbs. should be ok then

Truck will crank fine then when you put it in gear it will just shut off. I have replaced throttle body injectors, throttle position sensor, idle air controller, new plugs, cap, rotor, fuel pump assembly, fuel filter, EGR blocked off, ignition temperature sensor. This has helped some but still cutting off.

Can you please make a video of the engine having a problem so I can see what is going on? You can upload it here in your response. I sounds like you have a torque converter fallen apart locking up the engine when put in drive or reverse. It could be you have a vacuum leak as well. Here is a guide to help us go over a few things:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken

my truck will start and idle fine when in park you can even reav it and it will run fine but as soon as you put the truck in gear the truck will stumble and stall
iv replaced the o2 sensor the fuel filter and i just resentle put new headers on it why does the truck stumble and stall when in gear

Check the TPS,MAF,and MAP sensor to include the EGR valve

same issue here what did your problem end up being? I have changed the TPS sensor, injectors, fuel regulator, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, runs/idles strong but then put into gear and it stalls out. Any ideas would be great thanks. 1990 Chevy Silverado 350 V8 5.0L

Check the exhaust system for restriction

Idals fine till put in gear then dies

First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system (very important)

. You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC

Chevrolet Silverado 1500 will die while idling and when put into gear. What could be causing this to happen? Replaced distributor and is in time.

Go here: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak? please use this guide to check it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

88 silverado, New Parts
Heater Core
Water Pump
Serp Belt
Plugs
Wires
Distrib Cap and Rotor
Front brakes
__________________
Problem

Ill start the truck to let it warm up and at times it will stall but it will start right back up. Main problem is I can be driving just fine and then the truck starts jumping example like someone learning to drive a manual shift like your going to get whiplash (LOL).
then if you push the gas pedal all the way to the floor it doesnt pick up it will keep on jerking you or starts to pop like backfire. I know it is ticking me off, My mechanic has said its either the fire its not getting or the fuel pump. But what has him confused is that the truck always starts back up.

I sure as heck someone here know what it is.

Thanks
Dan
Indianapolis Indiana.

I would start by checking fuel pump pressure. Also, make sure the catylatic converters are not plugging.

Here is a how to for checking fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Also, has the check engine light come on?

check engine light come on sometimes not a steady light

The fuel pressure was checked it is fine, the dino didnt show anything wrong. But the fella told me its nothing to do with the fuel but it is in the ignition....

I just had new plugs and wires, distrib cap and rotor put on the truck.

Engine starts then stalls, after about approximately 15 min it finally keeps running. this happens in the morning
when I go to start about 8 hours later it starts up fine. Truck is park in the garage over night and parked outside during the day. Any Ideas? Thanks

I need you to check fuel pump pressure after the vehicle sits over night. Something tells me it bleed off all pressure and is then taking time to rebuild it.

i recently got a truck when i got it it had open headers on it i started it and drove it home no problum the headers were rusted out so i put new headers on and ran strait pipes ever sience then the truck will start and run fine in park but as soon as you put it in gear and have a load on the moter it stumbles and stalles right out iv replaced the o2 sensor and check all vacume line for leaks and couldn find anything what do you think it is?

Check the fuel pressure, throttle position, mass airflow, manifold absolute pressure sensors.

ive checked the map,maf,and erg valve and it still does it when you first start it up you can hear a loud air sound but cant find the leak could it be the tbi gasket

Engine stumbles and hesitates:

Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires

ok so when the truck is in park it it runs fine perfect no misfire nothing you can rev the motor in park and tell that it is runinig perfect you can see the gas that is comming out of the fuel injector flow faster when you rev the moter so i dont think it is fuel pump or pressur problums iv drained my gas tank and put fresh gas in it new fuel filter i chance the iac valve iv tested all wires and got all proper voltage to map sensor.emc sencor.tbi sensor.o2sensor.and egr silinoid and checked the egr valve changed all vacum lines cleaned injectors. but still when you put the truck in gear it will idil fine but as soon as you step on the gas it stallswhe in gear not in prk its fine engin does not hesitate all new plug and plug wires truck never did this untill i put new headers and strait pipes on. when you disconect the the vacum line from the map sensor the truck runs ruff so im sure that that sensor is working but how to i check the egr silinoid.and my truck doesnt have a maf sensor....my oil pressur is extremly low when motor is warm why is that? could that be the cuase? plz help this is coasting way mor money then the truck is worth

Check your fuel and oil pressure then comeback with both readings in order for me to continue

1989 k2500 5.7l. engine fires but shuts off when warm or if it stays running when I give it gas. I have thrown part after part after it but no change everything I can think of a junkyard TBI, a new computer, new EGR new, EGR valve, new plugs, new wires, timing set. Going to check fuel pressure next, but I don't know how that would make it act like it is. It feels like it's running fuel rich so even when. I play with the throttle and keeps it running for a short bit 1 minute max. Any help or advice would be great.