No Spark

Tiny
J-ROD87
  • MEMBER
  • 1985 JEEP CJ7
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 137,000 MILES
I was driving down the road and all of a sudden the jeep started bogging down then died. It is getting gas but no spark. I turn the key over and the coil will spark once but that is it and I have no spark out of the distributor. The coil and distributor pickup wheel gets its power from the Ignition Control Module so you think that could be the problem?
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Sunday, October 31st, 2010 AT 12:48 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
I was going to suggest the ignition module here is a the location - On RH Side Wheel Well HEre is a wiring diagram for the ignitions system and a guide to help you test it below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, October 31st, 2010 AT 1:01 AM
Tiny
J-ROD87
  • MEMBER
I tested the wires coming out of the module and the wires leading into the coil and they all tested fine both ground and hot so it should be getting power and the 3 wires going into the distribtor 2 grounds tested fine and so did power wire. Like I said the coil will spark once when turning over but thats it and that doesnt happpen every time so im guessing either the module or coil what do you think?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, October 31st, 2010 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Nice try on the module!

Really needs to be tested on the machine at the auto parts store. It reads what's happening low and high RPMs. Probably other things too! Test it like I described before. If you return with a "Tested Good Once"---Bad module. We will be chasing our tail forever, thinking its something else!

I got a "Spare" From the salvage yard, I keep it, a fuel pump and a coil in my console (You can see all of this, and a lot of my CJ modifications----Not sporty type but "USER FRIENDLY STUFF", I have done, in my Walmart Photo Sharing Albums).A module is about $30 or so.

The Electrical stuff was actually temporarily installed to insure it would work, when I need them (or in some cases, to help another CJer on the side of the road. Sometimes me, This is the only vehicles (6 CJ5s and 1 Willys since 1981), I drive as Primary transportation.I have learned valuable lessons!

I will "PM" (private message) you soon with details, You are unable till 10 posts, I can initiate to you, I have over 500.

Wish I were there, might go faster!

We still have other factors to test

Lets back up and do some stupid stuff, Give the carb a shot of starter fluid, or a dribble of gasoline, Heck, I've used Hairspray (from previous female encounters) to crank when I was away!

What results do you get there?

Now, pop the Distributor cap, "STERNLY" try to twist the rotor button, It will rock back and forth, normally.

We are trying to see if the Gear on the end is having issues (retaining pin twisted off, gears stipped, etc) We want to see if it FREEWHEELS (moves more than it should), without breaking something!

I will send you some coil info, after you respond.

Your Turn

All results. We will get you fixed.I hate being without my Jeeps. As I know you are!

The Medic
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, October 31st, 2010 AT 8:08 PM
Tiny
J-ROD87
  • MEMBER
Ok I had the module tested 6 times and all passed so I bought one anyway and it worked something must be wrong with their machine. Thanks for your help. I love this site.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 1st, 2010 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 1st, 2010 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
J-ROD87
  • MEMBER
Hy bud thanks for the info I got the jeep fixed. The ground wire that runs from the pickup wheel to the module was corroded and setting against body and trying to run through the wire through the body and then through to the module so it wasns getting full signal to the pickup wheel telling it to pulse. Thanks again.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 2nd, 2010 AT 10:06 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
WONDERFUL!

Glad you discovered it, I was running out of stuff to throw at you!

If you are interested in my modification Pics, Let me know in "PM"

The Medic
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 2nd, 2010 AT 10:11 PM
Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
OK, I took out my test light, put the wire on the Negative terminal of the battery, and tested my Red Ignition Coil harness contact with the key on; I got a solid red light on my wire tester. While trying to start the Jeep doing the same test, I got a solid red light again.

Then I put the wire on the Positive terminal of the battery, and tested my Green ignition Coil harness contact with the key on; I got a solid green light on my wire tester. While trying to start the Jeep doing the same test, I still got a solid green light. However, I believe I'm looking for a pulsing/flashing green light on my wire tester when trying to start and testing the green coil contact.

Question, If when my Jeep was working last month, I could pull the key out of the ignition while driving down the road, would that have any significance to the problem I'm having now? Or, given I have tilt steering, and use it to pull the wheel down into my lap each time I would drive, could a wire have snapped inside my column and be creating this problem?

I don't have a voltmeter. I did get your message, but didn't see any wiring diagrams, but will look again.

Aside from the above, I have changed the Ignition Module, Ignition Coil, Distributor, Rotor, and Pick-Up assembly in the base of the Distributor all since this happened early last month. No luck starting to the point I re-tested as stated above.

Specs: 1986 Jeep CJ7, stock. No modifications; 258 Cu. In, 4.2 L, In-Line 6, 5 speed Manual.

Question, If when my Jeep was working last month, I could pull the key out of the ignition while driving down the road, would that have any significance to the problem I'm having now? Or, given I have tilt steering, and use it to pull the wheel down into my lap each time I would drive, could a wire have snapped inside my column and be creating this problem?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 20th, 2011 AT 8:20 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Key problem, is one of those things!!!

guess because it's one of those chevy things, adopted by amc....the alternator was also adopted, but i like it better than the ford system w/ an external regulator.

sometimes it's just the key, usually the teeth are worn off due to excess heavy baggage hanging on your key ring.

if you have another key try it, then have another made!

i've replaced many cylinders over the years...a key (that will turn, is required to do so......i can run you thru it, if you want...it's a bit involved.

most major problems with the loose key is, out of habit, cranking and going without it........all fine and dandy, until you are a hundred miles out, turn off the switch......and accidentally lock the steering...you remember your keys are on the nightstand.......don't even ask!!!

as for ignition, none of it......is in the column....the actual ignition switch is on top of it, on the other side of the dash.....it's a pain to get to, as the column will not drop....like in a truck. the key simply actuates a rod....which moves the switch.....before you attempt to change it, let's rule out ezer stuff!

i made pics of a ford f-100 truck, that i replaced the ign switch in, just so you jeep fellers, could see how it works...cause you just about gotta chang a cj switch by "feel".......note the "l" shaped in on the rod, and the elongated holes, in which you slide the switch, to "calibrate" it to the key positions. see this link

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1989-ford-f-250-remove-ignition

how about "your story" complete....leave nothing out....all i can go on at present....is the other guy's story

then i'll try to talk your thru the checks...in an order, to make you fix go fast....... concur???

this is your 1st 2 tests....take 3 soft drink bottle tops, fill 'em gas....i said "tops" (caps!) dump 'em in the carb....tell me your jeep's reaction to this.....turns over and over?....or spits, like it wants to start???

next pull a spark plug, ground it to the engine, turn it over....is it sparking?

i really need answers to "all of my questions"....help me out now!

can you get an inexpensive "digital voltmeter" at an auto parts store..$5-$20.....i have pics on how to test your jeep with it....it would be cheaper than "throwing parts" at the unknown!!!

the medic
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 21st, 2011 AT 2:36 AM
Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
I have a 1986 Jeep CJ7; 258 cu. In, 4.2 L, 5 Speed manual, no modifications.

To date I have replaced the Ignition Module, the Distributor, the Rotor, the Ignition Coil, and even the pick-up assembly on the Distributor base. I removed wiring from the harnesses to look for breaks, but found none. Found a lot of splices taped w/Duct tape (Factory? I've had Jeep since new), and re-taped splices with electrical tape.
Before and after changing the above stuff I have removed a plug, grounded it and got no spark. (My Chilton s Manual said not to test using Spark Plug #1, because it could damage the sensor inside the distributor, and I believe early on I may have. Could this have complicated maters?) I have also taken a test plug, put in the coil wire, and grounded it. The plug sparked once and that was it. That is why I'm chasing this J-Rod87; 1985 Jeep CJ7 No Spark thread; same symptoms, was hoping to find a broken wire.

I also took out my test light, put the wire on the Negative terminal of the battery, and tested my Red Ignition Coil harness contact with the key on; I got a solid red light on my wire tester. While trying to start the Jeep doing the same test, I got a solid red light again.

Then I put the wire on the Positive terminal of the battery, and tested my Green Ignition Coil harness contact with the key on; I got a solid green light on my wire tester. While trying to start the Jeep doing the same test, I still got a solid green light. However, I believe I'm looking for a pulsing/flashing green light on my wire tester when trying to start and testing the green coil contact.

Out of curiosity, could it be:
1) the computer under the dash; another thread suggested this;
2) burnt/compromised wires at one of the splices; on the single wire coming out of a splice, the wire is a little bumpy. In other words, could the insulation be intact and bumpy, but the wire beneath be pooched?
3) a relay; there are two 20/30A relays at the end of the wiring harnesses;
4) ignition switch; I have replaced a few years back, but not for this reason;
5) heavy gauge wire going from solenoid to starter;
6) anything else. I have looked for a fusible link, but can't find one anywhere. And I don't seem to have a fuse in the fuse panel under my dash that I could pull.
7) You've already said it is not caused by the Key Cylinder.

I realize you want me to do some tests, and I have done the above tests already, but I'm just curious how far this lack of ignition problem reaches, or what it implicates.

I will go do the 3 "bottle top" gas test, and get back to you. I will look to get a Voltmeter.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 21st, 2011 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
LOVELY!

NEED VOLTMETER FOR ALL KINDS OF STUFF...GOOD TO HAVE ONE!

I HAVE PICS, USING ONE FOR TESTS

IF YOU PLACE YOUR SPARK PLUG ON THE ENGINE (HEX PART TO THE THREADS) IT WILL JUST AS IF THE PLUG IS SCREWED INTO THE BLOCK---NO DAMAGE!

SEE IF IT WILL SPARK MULTIPLE TIMES, TURNING THE ENGINE OVER!

I WILL ANSWER YOUR QUESTIONS, THE BEST I CAN!!!!!

1) COMPUTER--POSSIBLE, I'VE NEVER ENCOUNTERED A BAD ONE MYSELF
2) WIRES---POSSIBLE....WE'LL FIND OUT DURING TESTING
3) I THINK THE RELAYS ARE EMISSIONS RELATED (WE'LL GO THERE, IF NEED-BE)
4) IGN SWITCH-EVEN BRAND NEW STUFF CAN BE BAD! SAME WITH THE "MODULE" I'VE BEEN THERE TWICE!........YOU CAN REMOVE IT AND HAVE IT TESTED AT AN AUTO PARTS STORE....5-8 TIMES (MIGHT PIZZ THEM OFF, BUT NECESSARY TO WARM IT UP) IF IT FAILS LAST FEW, GET ANOTHER!!!!!TEST IT THE SAME, BEFORE YOU LEAVE!!!!!!
5)IF IT TURNS OVER, STARTER SYSTEM IS FINE
6)I'LL LINK YOU TO CHECKING FUSIBLE LINKS---READ THIS MAINLY TOWARDS THE BOTTOM....WITH A VOLTMETER, YOU WILL ALSO BE ABLE TO CHECK, STUFF AS FAR AS HOW MUCH, AND WHEN VOLTAGE SHOULD OCCUR ON THE WIRES....THIS MAY BE IRRELEVANT TO THE IGNITION SYSTEM....BUT GOOD TO KNOW FOR A "NO START" (CRANKING) SITUATION.
http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1992-ford-ranger-wont-start
7) DID YOU UNDERSTAND THE IGN SWITCH EXPLANATION (KEY MOVES ROD, ROD MOVES SWITCH)I SENT AS A LINK???

SOON AS YOU HAVE A VOLTMETER, I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO COMPLETELY, BYPASS THE IGN SWITCH....IF IT RUNS, I KNOW WHERE TO INVESTIGATE

IF NOT,

WE'RE GONNA TEST THE DISTRIBUTOR--I HAVE PICS..MIGHT EVEN LINK YOU, AS I HAVE ALREADY GONE THROUGH BEFORE.

YOU STILL HAVE THE COMMO OPTION THAT I OFFERED IN MESSAGES, MIGHT MAKE YOU FEEL BETTER TO "VENT", I SHED TEARS, WHEN MINE ARE SICK TOO!!!

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 21st, 2011 AT 4:11 PM
Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
Medic, I'm up and running. Was wiring. Am mobile again.

Thanks for your patience, interest and help. I may be back soon, but hopefully not with a distress call. I need something replacement-wise at the base of my shifter; 5 speed manual. It doesn't have that firm hold. Feels like something is broke inside the shifter base, and has been for a while now.

Mike
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 22nd, 2011 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
THIS YOUR TRANNY?

LOOK AT "41"....."42"......"43"

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-transmission-parts/borg-warner-t5.htm

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 22nd, 2011 AT 8:52 PM
Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
Yes, I believe that's it, but I think the part needed is #39; but not sure. Actually the Quadratec catalogue, or Chilton's has a more detailed blow-up diagram.

Have you had much experience pulling the shifter and replacing parts there? If so, is it difficult? Or more simple as pulling up the Shifter Cover Plate, and removing the shifter and parts? Or, is the shifter embedded within the Tranny? The shifter just feels so lose, and sloppy.

Not sure of my time frame as to when I will tackle, but would like to get it done this fall. Going overseas for a bit September 4.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, August 23rd, 2011 AT 2:32 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides