1985 Jeep CJ7 No Spark

Tiny
J-ROD87
  • MEMBER
  • 1985 JEEP CJ7
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 137,000 MILES
I was driving down the road and all of a sudden the jeep started bogging down then died. It is getting gas but no spark. I turn the key over and the coil will spark once but that is it and I have no spark out of the distributor. The coil and distributor pickup wheel gets its power from the Ignition Control Module so you think that could be the problem?
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Sunday, October 31st, 2010 AT 12:48 AM

27 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile,

I know CJs really well.....I answer CJ 5 & 7 forums frequently........Investigate other answers I have given.

I will help you all I can

To save time, and to help faster, read this link to another answer I gave.

http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1985-jeep-cj7-no-spark-when-cranking-vt507850.html

Should this not help.....There are other reasons for no spark....we will work thru them, if we have to!

Reply below (reply to question)

We will continue, are you competent with a Voltmeter?

This is my hobby, I can send pics, if NEED-BE!

Reply with results and any additional symptoms

Your Turn

The Medic


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_Picture_008_1.jpg

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, October 31st, 2010 AT 1:01 AM
Tiny
J-ROD87
  • MEMBER
I tested the wires coming out of the module and the wires leading into the coil and they all tested fine both ground and hot so it should be getting power and the 3 wires going into the distribtor 2 grounds tested fine and so did power wire. Like I said the coil will spark once when turning over but thats it and that doesnt happpen every time so im guessing either the module or coil what do you think?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, October 31st, 2010 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Nice try on the module!

Really needs to be tested on the machine at the auto parts store. It reads what's happening low and high RPMs. Probably other things too! Test it like I described before. If you return with a "Tested Good Once"---Bad module. We will be chasing our tail forever, thinking its something else!

I got a "Spare" From the salvage yard, I keep it, a fuel pump and a coil in my console (You can see all of this, and a lot of my CJ modifications----Not sporty type but "USER FRIENDLY STUFF", I have done, in my Walmart Photo Sharing Albums).A module is about $30 or so.

The Electrical stuff was actually temporarily installed to insure it would work, when I need them (or in some cases, to help another CJer on the side of the road. Sometimes me, This is the only vehicles (6 CJ5s and 1 Willys since 1981), I drive as Primary transportation.I have learned valuable lessons!

I will "PM" (private message) you soon with details, You are unable till 10 posts, I can initiate to you, I have over 500.

Wish I were there, might go faster!

We still have other factors to test

Lets back up and do some stupid stuff, Give the carb a shot of starter fluid, or a dribble of gasoline, Heck, I've used Hairspray (from previous female encounters) to crank when I was away!

What results do you get there?

Now, pop the Distributor cap, "STERNLY" try to twist the rotor button, It will rock back and forth, normally.

We are trying to see if the Gear on the end is having issues (retaining pin twisted off, gears stipped, etc) We want to see if it FREEWHEELS (moves more than it should), without breaking something!

I will send you some coil info, after you respond.

Your Turn

All results. We will get you fixed.I hate being without my Jeeps. As I know you are!

The Medic
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, October 31st, 2010 AT 8:08 PM
Tiny
J-ROD87
  • MEMBER
Ok I had the module tested 6 times and all passed and I replaced the coil it still will only spark once out of the coil and thats it. I put a cup of gas down the carb and even ether but it had no effect. I grab the rotr and it rocked back and forth fine no freewheeling. I am haing no results I asked my buddy and he said something about a wire supposed to be having a pulse while cranking? Please help
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 1st, 2010 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Roger, the pulse is the "HIGH TENSION WIRE" from the coil to the distributor.

Still no word about competency with voltmeter---Voltage DC, Continuity testing, and reading OHMs....can you do those?

VERY IMPORTANT!!!---DID YOU REPLACE THE COIL WITH ONE STATING : FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR ??? ( THIS IS WHAT YOU SHOULD HAVE )........IF YOU USED THE ONE WITH A INTERNAL RESISTOR.........YOU NOW HAVE 2 RESISTORS IN LINE......THE ONE ON THE JEEP IS A WIRE THAT HAS RESISTANCE FROM COIL TOWARDS IGNITION SWITCH (DOES NOT GO ALL THE WAY THERE) GET THE CORRECT COIL (STOCK) DO NOT USE SOMETHING "PRETTY"!!!! OR PROMISING WONDERFUL THINGS!!!!

Just for Shoots and Giggles---for a result.....Lets use a jumper wire from POS Battery to POS COIL

If it starts, the only way to stop it is to remove the wire from one end.......Give Results

MAKE SURE YOUR SOLENOID IS HOOKED THE SAME AS MINE!........There should be enough info here for you to FIND THE CORRECT WIRES!.....IF YOU GET LOST......TELL ME!

THIS WAS DESIGNED TO AID "NO START"..... JEEP CJs......As far as the starter system.

THE PROCEDURES MAY ALSO HELP YOU........IF YOU DO NOT SKIP OVER THEM!

If the "CRAP" on down doesn't help, It could be the "cable" to the starter (clean/tighten) or the solenoid itself----even the starter......Try this stuff below 1st!!!

TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS ANYTHING OFF, AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Please Reply, Good or Bad.

I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg


"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

IF THIS IS A CJ---HOOK UP EXACTLY AS IN THE PIC ABOVE......NO WHINING!.....JUST DO IT!

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND

Basically to "OVERRIDE THE KEY" you must Connect, The Battery Positive cable to the "S TERMININAL" of your Solenoid, USING A SHORT JUMPER WIRE (Briefly, for seconds, this will act like the key is cranking it) This will only work if the solenoid is good.

The Screwdriver Trick only works if Both of these items are side-by-side on the solenoid (thats why I recommend that the CJs wire exactly like mine, in pic, So "A & C" or rather wires, "1 & 5" can be EZily "shorted" with a REMOTE STARTER or a screwdriver, in a pinch!

To override the whole Solenoid, connect "A & B" or wires, "1 & 2" Temporarily, with a Heavy Cable, such as connect one side of your jumper cables to POS BATTERY, then touch the heavy starter wire firmly with the other end.

You will have SPARKS, NOISE and ENGINE MOVEMENT, when you do this.................You might have to clean out your britches, too!.........SO BE CAREFUL!!!!!!

YOU PROBABLY CANNOT READ THE INFO ON PICTHIS WILL ONLY WORK IF YOU ARE HOOKED UP LIKE MY SOLENOID, IN PREVIOUS PIC


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_CHEATING_THE_SOLINOID_1.jpg



Your turn to reply w/ results!

The Medic
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 1st, 2010 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
J-ROD87
  • MEMBER
None of the wires out of the distributor are pulsing should they be. I replaced the module and still the same only it will do ity every time now just spark once then nothing out of the coil. The hott wires into the coil are hot when key on and cranking but both ground wires into it are grounded when the keys on then nothing while cranking neither hot nor ground and im getting no pulse out of any wires and I have no ground for the coil which I think might be the reason for only sparkin once?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 1st, 2010 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
OK Boss,

I was on my way out to chow, when I answered you last time.

While I was WAITING on the Evil woman that married me, I kept on "EDITING" my answer, and resubmitting. Trying to get you as much info as I could, before I left.

So really what you should do is read back thru itand perform the "TESTS" and Check the wiring to your SOLENOID. Make it all happen!

PLEASE ANSWER MY QUESTIONS. Particularly the test results. REALLY DO THE TESTS, and the TYPE COIL YOU ARE USING. If you do not know (some are not marked). Get the right one from the parts house, "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR". If you are not sure!

Sorta forget about the wire action, at the distributor for now.

I cannot DIAGNOSE without something to eliminate from the testing!

Also, a cup of fuel is way too much, If it was going to start, that much probably flooded it.2 or 3 squirts from a spray bottle would be plenty. Even if you flooded it, did it spit and sputter like it was trying? Or was it flat lining with only sounds of turning over?

The Jumper from POS BAT to POS COIL, is going to let me know if we are not getting Power thru the Wire to the key. Or too little power from using the wrong coil!

The inital spark may be from "I" "TERMINAL" on your solenoid (doing its job correctly). It only gives FULL 12 VOLTS while you are cranking. Then it dies (then Key On, takes over with reduced voltage). Usually when there is a Lack Of 12V issue. Coming from the Ignition switch (Key On Position) It will almost start up. Until you release the key. Then it dies out.

Its 20:40 (8:40 PM) Eastern Time Here, I will be up till about 01:00 HRS or 1 in the morning!

Will send you another PM now

The Medic

Please do the tests. Do not start messing with the IGN SWITCH or wires yet!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 1st, 2010 AT 7:37 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Saw you have picked up both PMs,

I am bored, Really want to help you!

Since I know whats going on, on your end (frantic, trying any and everything. As anyone would do!)

Without responses from you about the other stuff (by the way, thanks for ruling out a bad module!) I have my hands sorta tied in not knowing which way to explore to continue testing.

Lets do this 1stsomebody cranks, you jiggle the distributor wires and any other "Unkept" floppy wires, see if you get a cough or two, just from a broken wire in the insulation or at a connector, where it has gotten severed

Without knowing, if you know MR. VOLTMETER very well, I am going to explain step by step, how to test the Pick-Up in your distributor.

1) Set the V.M. On OHMS

2) Touch the leads together. On a Analog meter, your needle should peg out. Or. On a Digital, your digital scale should go from "1" to "0". This is continuity (full travel of a circuit ). Even if it does not peg out. Just moving, shows continuity with resistance in the circuit.

You must insure there is no voltage on wires you test, using continuity. Otherwise you burn up Mr. Meter. Even if it means disconnecting the battery!

If something is conductive, putting your leads on either end, will complete the circuit thru the Meter and show on your scale. Steel, Copper, Wire, ETC

3) So, what we are going to do next is disconnect the Distributor and test the PICK-UP Coil, inside of it.

I cannot see your rig----All I have is the wiring diagram, in front of me, and another diagram for testing all, but '84 on up. It shows me nothing as far as specs on what your OHMS should be. So we will just wing this for now

4) Connect your leads to each terminal of the connector going into the distributor

5) Observe your scaledid it move at all? Yes, means the wires are not broke anywhere to include the pickupNo, means we have an open circuit. Bad distributor maybe.(Guessing without proper specs)

A new distributor is about $50 or soafter you return the core to them.

If we do not find another problem 1st.I can show you an EZ way to install it, but do not remove the old one until I show you how to reference it---so that the new one will probably go right back in with ease (normally). With the timing really close to what the original was (kinda a get by thing, till you can check it right). Timing should be verified soon.

Your Turn

The Medic
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 1st, 2010 AT 11:36 PM
Tiny
J-ROD87
  • MEMBER
Hy bud thanks for the info I got the jeep fixed. The ground wire that runs from the pickup wheel to the module was corroded and setting against body and trying to run through the wire through the body and then through to the module so it wasns getting full signal to the pickup wheel telling it to pulse. Thanks again.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 2nd, 2010 AT 10:06 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
WONDERFUL!

Glad you discovered it, I was running out of stuff to throw at you!

If you are interested in my modification Pics, Let me know in "PM"

The Medic
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 2nd, 2010 AT 10:11 PM
Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
Is there any way of getting J-Rod 87 a PRIVATE MESSAGE, asking him to outline in a little greater detail where in fact this wire is that he found that was corroded?

His symptoms sound identical to mine (I realize this doesn't guarantee a thing), but the electrical diagrams in the Chilton's Manual, and everything he has described after I have done all my electrical testing, warrants a closer look at where this wire in fact is (goes from and to; colour and all).
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, August 16th, 2011 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
It sounds like it is the Black wire from the Distributor to the module!

I have the Chiltons diagrams too. The difference between mine and yours is:

I took 'em to "MS Paint" and colored the wires as best I could, I was unable to show "tracers" on wires so I. Example "Blue with Tracer"---I colored the wire Blue. Dotted it with black. You'll see!

I have homemade pics of testing the distributor and other stuff.I can post them here. As far as the Modified wire diagrams (now so EZ to read).I'll send you a message. Send your address in there (not broadcast to the world, like here!)

As far as sending him/ or you, a message, (I am able, I have more than 10 posts!). He will get a Email Notification, just as I did, Just Then. He got one, Just then also, when activity hit his Old Post. If he's there. He'll see this new addition!

If you want, no need in creating a new question. Tell me your problems in detail. History. Stuff you know that has been "correctly" checked, replaced, tampered with. Are you emission tested? ETC!

I know 'em pretty well! I maybe able to help you!

The Medic
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, August 16th, 2011 AT 6:11 PM
Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
OK, I took out my test light, put the wire on the Negative terminal of the battery, and tested my Red Ignition Coil harness contact with the key on; I got a solid red light on my wire tester. While trying to start the Jeep doing the same test, I got a solid red light again.

Then I put the wire on the Positive terminal of the battery, and tested my Green ignition Coil harness contact with the key on; I got a solid green light on my wire tester. While trying to start the Jeep doing the same test, I still got a solid green light. However, I believe I'm looking for a pulsing/flashing green light on my wire tester when trying to start and testing the green coil contact.

Question, If when my Jeep was working last month, I could pull the key out of the ignition while driving down the road, would that have any significance to the problem I'm having now? Or, given I have tilt steering, and use it to pull the wheel down into my lap each time I would drive, could a wire have snapped inside my column and be creating this problem?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 20th, 2011 AT 8:20 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
ALLRIGHTY THEN

DO YOU HAVE A VOLTMETER?

WHEN DEALING WITH THE IGN SYSTEM, WE NEED MORE EXACT VOLTAGES

CAN YOU COMPLY?

DID YOU GET MY MESSAGE, IN MESSAGES. GOT SOME WIRE DIAGRAMS YOU WILL APPRECIATE. WAITIN' ON YOU!

I WILL BE ABLE TO TO THROW YOU MORE INFO, IN 3 OR 4 HOURS, WIFEY'S DRAGGING ME TO A EVENT OF SOME SORT, 40 MILES AWAY.

PLEASE KINDA GIVE ME YOUR VERSION OF WHAT HAPPENED WITH YOUR JEEP. ALL YOU HAVE DONE

I KNOW WE CAN FIX YOU!

THANKS,

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 20th, 2011 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
I don't have a voltmeter. I did get your message, but didn't see any wiring diagrams, but will look again.

Aside from the above, I have changed the Ignition Module, Ignition Coil, Distributor, Rotor, and Pick-Up assembly in the base of the Distributor all since this happened early last month. No luck starting to the point I re-tested as stated above.

Specs: 1986 Jeep CJ7, stock. No modifications; 258 Cu. In, 4.2 L, In-Line 6, 5 speed Manual.

Question, If when my Jeep was working last month, I could pull the key out of the ignition while driving down the road, would that have any significance to the problem I'm having now? Or, given I have tilt steering, and use it to pull the wheel down into my lap each time I would drive, could a wire have snapped inside my column and be creating this problem?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 20th, 2011 AT 8:39 PM
Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
I don't have a Voltmeter.

Question, If when my Jeep was working last month, I could pull the key out of the ignition while driving down the road, would that have any significance to the problem I'm having now? Or, given I have tilt steering, and use it to pull the wheel down into my lap each time I would drive, could a wire have snapped inside my column and be creating this problem?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 20th, 2011 AT 9:07 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
KEY PROBLEM, IS ONE OF THOSE THINGS!!!

GUESS BECAUSE IT'S ONE OF THOSE CHEVY THINGS, ADOPTED BY AMC....THE ALTERNATOR WAS ALSO ADOPTED, BUT I LIKE IT BETTER THAN THE FORD SYSTEM W/ AN EXTERNAL REGULATOR.

SOMETIMES IT'S JUST THE KEY, USUALLY THE TEETH ARE WORN OFF DUE TO EXCESS HEAVY BAGGAGE HANGING ON YOUR KEY RING.

IF YOU HAVE ANOTHER KEY TRY IT, THEN HAVE ANOTHER MADE!

I'VE REPLACED MANY CYLINDERS OVER THE YEARS...A KEY (THAT WILL TURN, IS REQUIRED TO DO SO......I CAN RUN YOU THRU IT, IF YOU WANT...IT'S A BIT INVOLVED.

MOST MAJOR PROBLEMS WITH THE LOOSE KEY IS, OUT OF HABIT, CRANKING AND GOING WITHOUT IT........ALL FINE AND DANDY, UNTIL YOU ARE A HUNDRED MILES OUT, TURN OFF THE SWITCH......AND ACCIDENTALLY LOCK THE STEERING...YOU REMEMBER YOUR KEYS ARE ON THE NIGHTSTAND.......DON'T EVEN ASK!!!

AS FOR IGNITION, NONE OF IT......IS IN THE COLUMN....THE ACTUAL IGNITION SWITCH IS ON TOP OF IT, ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE DASH.....IT'S A PAIN TO GET TO, AS THE COLUMN WILL NOT DROP....LIKE IN A TRUCK. THE KEY SIMPLY ACTUATES A ROD....WHICH MOVES THE SWITCH.....BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO CHANGE IT, LET'S RULE OUT EZer STUFF!

I MADE PICS OF A FORD F-100 TRUCK, THAT I REPLACED THE IGN SWITCH IN, JUST SO YOU JEEP FELLERS, COULD SEE HOW IT WORKS...CAUSE YOU JUST ABOUT GOTTA CHANG A CJ SWITCH BY "FEEL".......NOTE THE "L" SHAPED IN ON THE ROD, AND THE ELONGATED HOLES, IN WHICH YOU SLIDE THE SWITCH, TO "CALIBRATE" IT TO THE KEY POSITIONS. SEE THIS LINK

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1989-ford-f-250-remove-ignition

HOW ABOUT "YOUR STORY" COMPLETE....LEAVE NOTHING OUT....ALL I CAN GO ON AT PRESENT....IS THE OTHER GUY'S STORY

THEN I'LL TRY TO TALK YOUR THRU THE CHECKS...IN AN ORDER, TO MAKE YOU FIX GO FAST....... CONCUR???

THIS IS YOUR 1ST 2 TESTS....TAKE 3 SOFT DRINK BOTTLE TOPS, FILL 'EM GAS....I SAID "TOPS" (CAPS!) DUMP 'EM IN THE CARB....TELL ME YOUR JEEP'S REACTION TO THIS.....TURNS OVER AND OVER?....OR SPITS, LIKE IT WANTS TO START???

NEXT PULL A SPARK PLUG, GROUND IT TO THE ENGINE, TURN IT OVER....IS IT SPARKING?

I REALLY NEED ANSWERS TO "ALL OF MY QUESTIONS"....HELP ME OUT NOW!

CAN YOU GET AN INEXPENSIVE "DIGITAL VOLTMETER" AT AN AUTO PARTS STORE..$5-$20.....I HAVE PICS ON HOW TO TEST YOUR JEEP WITH IT....IT WOULD BE CHEAPER THAN "THROWING PARTS" AT THE UNKNOWN!!!

THE MEDIC

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 21st, 2011 AT 2:36 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
PLEASE TELL ME YOUR JEEP AND ENGINE INFO

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 21st, 2011 AT 2:42 AM
Tiny
0H CANADA
  • MEMBER
I have a 1986 Jeep CJ7; 258 cu. In, 4.2 L, 5 Speed manual, no modifications.

To date I have replaced the Ignition Module, the Distributor, the Rotor, the Ignition Coil, and even the pick-up assembly on the Distributor base. I removed wiring from the harnesses to look for breaks, but found none. Found a lot of splices taped w/Duct tape (Factory? I've had Jeep since new), and re-taped splices with electrical tape.
Before and after changing the above stuff I have removed a plug, grounded it and got no spark. (My Chilton s Manual said not to test using Spark Plug #1, because it could damage the sensor inside the distributor, and I believe early on I may have. Could this have complicated maters?) I have also taken a test plug, put in the coil wire, and grounded it. The plug sparked once and that was it. That is why I'm chasing this J-Rod87; 1985 Jeep CJ7 No Spark thread; same symptoms, was hoping to find a broken wire.

I also took out my test light, put the wire on the Negative terminal of the battery, and tested my Red Ignition Coil harness contact with the key on; I got a solid red light on my wire tester. While trying to start the Jeep doing the same test, I got a solid red light again.

Then I put the wire on the Positive terminal of the battery, and tested my Green Ignition Coil harness contact with the key on; I got a solid green light on my wire tester. While trying to start the Jeep doing the same test, I still got a solid green light. However, I believe I'm looking for a pulsing/flashing green light on my wire tester when trying to start and testing the green coil contact.

Out of curiosity, could it be:
1) the computer under the dash; another thread suggested this;
2) burnt/compromised wires at one of the splices; on the single wire coming out of a splice, the wire is a little bumpy. In other words, could the insulation be intact and bumpy, but the wire beneath be pooched?
3) a relay; there are two 20/30A relays at the end of the wiring harnesses;
4) ignition switch; I have replaced a few years back, but not for this reason;
5) heavy gauge wire going from solenoid to starter;
6) anything else. I have looked for a fusible link, but can't find one anywhere. And I don't seem to have a fuse in the fuse panel under my dash that I could pull.
7) You've already said it is not caused by the Key Cylinder.

I realize you want me to do some tests, and I have done the above tests already, but I'm just curious how far this lack of ignition problem reaches, or what it implicates.

I will go do the 3 "bottle top" gas test, and get back to you. I will look to get a Voltmeter.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 21st, 2011 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
LOVELY!

NEED VOLTMETER FOR ALL KINDS OF STUFF...GOOD TO HAVE ONE!

I HAVE PICS, USING ONE FOR TESTS

IF YOU PLACE YOUR SPARK PLUG ON THE ENGINE (HEX PART TO THE THREADS) IT WILL JUST AS IF THE PLUG IS SCREWED INTO THE BLOCK---NO DAMAGE!

SEE IF IT WILL SPARK MULTIPLE TIMES, TURNING THE ENGINE OVER!

I WILL ANSWER YOUR QUESTIONS, THE BEST I CAN!!!!!

1) COMPUTER--POSSIBLE, I'VE NEVER ENCOUNTERED A BAD ONE MYSELF
2) WIRES---POSSIBLE....WE'LL FIND OUT DURING TESTING
3) I THINK THE RELAYS ARE EMISSIONS RELATED (WE'LL GO THERE, IF NEED-BE)
4) IGN SWITCH-EVEN BRAND NEW STUFF CAN BE BAD! SAME WITH THE "MODULE" I'VE BEEN THERE TWICE!........YOU CAN REMOVE IT AND HAVE IT TESTED AT AN AUTO PARTS STORE....5-8 TIMES (MIGHT PIZZ THEM OFF, BUT NECESSARY TO WARM IT UP) IF IT FAILS LAST FEW, GET ANOTHER!!!!!TEST IT THE SAME, BEFORE YOU LEAVE!!!!!!
5)IF IT TURNS OVER, STARTER SYSTEM IS FINE
6)I'LL LINK YOU TO CHECKING FUSIBLE LINKS---READ THIS MAINLY TOWARDS THE BOTTOM....WITH A VOLTMETER, YOU WILL ALSO BE ABLE TO CHECK, STUFF AS FAR AS HOW MUCH, AND WHEN VOLTAGE SHOULD OCCUR ON THE WIRES....THIS MAY BE IRRELEVANT TO THE IGNITION SYSTEM....BUT GOOD TO KNOW FOR A "NO START" (CRANKING) SITUATION.
http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1992-ford-ranger-wont-start
7) DID YOU UNDERSTAND THE IGN SWITCH EXPLANATION (KEY MOVES ROD, ROD MOVES SWITCH)I SENT AS A LINK???

SOON AS YOU HAVE A VOLTMETER, I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO COMPLETELY, BYPASS THE IGN SWITCH....IF IT RUNS, I KNOW WHERE TO INVESTIGATE

IF NOT,

WE'RE GONNA TEST THE DISTRIBUTOR--I HAVE PICS..MIGHT EVEN LINK YOU, AS I HAVE ALREADY GONE THROUGH BEFORE.

YOU STILL HAVE THE COMMO OPTION THAT I OFFERED IN MESSAGES, MIGHT MAKE YOU FEEL BETTER TO "VENT", I SHED TEARS, WHEN MINE ARE SICK TOO!!!

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 21st, 2011 AT 4:11 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides