Jeep CJ7

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Very Impressive!

You too, are hooked, no doubt!

I never made it to the "Tear The Body Off Of My Own, Point" until 1991 When "Willy" became part of the family. Then it was systematically, go thru nearly everything (new bearings and seals, and much, much more!)

It was a 2 year project, I gave $100 for him initially and. Now. Well, we will not even discuss that!

$$$ was the biggest issue, even though labor was Free, I started out in life with Nothing, and I still have most of it left!

I Completely wired him from scratch and to meet my Modified Special Wants and needs (he is far from original, but still has the "Right Look"), I installed a new body (glass, had to run a separate ground to everything. I drove him several years.A quart of oil every 7 miles! The town was glad when I broke down and rebuilt an engine and new clutch assembly. I created SEVERE SMOKE SCREENS everywhere we ventured!

I have no pics from back then, but I do have a VHS Video that I took here and there as I progressed in the beginning. (Now if I can figure out a way to make it digital and snag some pics from it). I am mostly Cyber-Stupid, I ever touched one till I broke my foot and had complications for a year and a half. Now here I am, finally over it--I did it at work, now they say, they do not need me. Their Loss. Someone soon, will have the Best Plumbing Service Technician, This side of the Mississippi!

Did you get my Mostly Modification Albums? (Mega Pics and Explanations)

If you have explored the CJ 5 & 7 Forums you have seen other pics of mine. Heres a few.

1) My daughter in "Willy" (1946 Willys CJ2A L-134 Engine), age 3 (my apprentice, her birth-date is my hood number), It's now roadworthy, and lays a Smokescreen. Needs engine

2) Years later, new paint, 1943 "MB" Front grill and soft top

3) Rear

4) Recent--I was sold this 1953 Sears "Allstate" aluminum hard top in '93, unassembled still in the box. Yep, the only top I had for a while (Just went and got it out of the woods at my Parents house, Now my winter top!), I gave $50 for it!---Pup likes being warm too

5) Now at Christmas--Same Daughter in 1st pic, visits from Arkansas (Away from her Evil other parent) This is my Apprentice and my Grandson.

6) When she visited for the Summer(s), she began learning at age 8, was as proficient as I at age 10. This is the way we sometimes save an Electric Cranking for future use (and impress people too!) This is about age 10. She thinks she is "Bad" now that she can drive, but cannot be licensed for 5 more years!

7) Cruisin' Mode

8) Mr. Rebuilt Engine L-4 134 CID---No more smokin'--lots more power--it too modified to "MY SPECS", under the hood to make things User-Friendlier

YOU AND I KNOW THE REAL MEANING OF "JEEP DEDICATION", OTHERS JUST THINK THEY DO, AND HAVE NO REAL CONTEMPLATION OF WHAT HOURS AND HOURS OF "FOCUS" REALLY IS. THEY JUST WANT YOU TO TAKE 'EM FOR A, "LETS TRASH OUT AND DESTROY 'YOUR JEEP', MUDDING EXPERIENCE."----KINDA LIKE THE "CSI GUY" AND HIS BASEMENT SAILBOAT!

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, February 15th, 2011 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
I WAS A SLOW PECKIN' TO YO WHEN YOU SENT LAST RESPONSE!

I KNOW LITTLE ABOUT THE "HIGH TECH" STUFF--STOCK WORKS JUST FINE FOR ME, AND EZ TO GET PARTS FOR, WHEN NEEDED IN A HURRY.I DO NOT RACE OR NEED SPLIT SECOND IMPROVEMENTS!

HERE TO GET YOU WHAT YOU WANT!

IF IT WILL FIT IN THERE. WE'LL DO IT!

JUST TELL ME WHATS SPECIAL ABOUT IT?

OR "ATTEMPT A LINK" SO I CAN SEE WHAT IT REQUIRES (COIL ETC.)

UP TO YOU!

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, February 15th, 2011 AT 3:50 PM
Tiny
CFENGINEER
  • MEMBER
Willy looks good!

Yes I agree, though it looks like it can tear up an offroad trail, I garauntee I will not be Mudding in thsi rig. Too much investment! Anyway, as far as the unified distributor, I would rather just keep it simple and easy to repair. The one-piece system is about $300.00 and only would go that direction if was worth it and more reliable. I'd hate to have to replace that peice several times! I'll holla back when I get the distributor this evening. Thanks.
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Tuesday, February 15th, 2011 AT 4:04 PM
Tiny
CFENGINEER
  • MEMBER
Ok, had to order the distributor and will be here in the morning. Is there anything I can do to prep before I install the new one?
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Tuesday, February 15th, 2011 AT 10:31 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Yes. Answer previous questions about location of #1 plug wire in relation to Distributor cap?

Did you get my MANY ALBUMS. All 3 wire diagrams. If not, I can resend

Lifetime warranty on newer one?

If so, that would mean the coil is the only thing you will ever have to buy. Ever! Compared to the Other one with a short lived warranty.

The Medic
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Tuesday, February 15th, 2011 AT 10:52 PM
Tiny
CFENGINEER
  • MEMBER
OK, I didn't have a chance to check for the Embossed "1" more thoroughly. It did not jump out at me, but I will look again. The setup does match the "1" position on the cap and the plug "1" in relation to the vacuum port. I will send a picture at lunch to verify what I am thinking or saying to be true. I will take pics of the new distributor and the existing setup and send them to you also so you can see what I am seeing. Thanks.
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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
CFENGINEER
  • MEMBER
OK, I have attached the photos of the distributor. As far as I can tell "1" is in the correct location on both the cap and the cylinder. I am picking up the new distributor after work today.
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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 7:38 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Allrighty,

The 2 pics you sent via my Email, tells me we can do the change-out without going thru the hassle of finding TDC (Top Dead Center) I f you had pulled the distributor without references to where thing were positioned. We would be pulling a plug, finding the compression stroke, moving the crank by hand, lining up the timing marks (without overshooting the compression stroke), and picking the distributor up and down, until the rotor button pointed toward # 1 wire on the capThen we would probably had to move the distributor until it would start up---then time it.

SO. THIS IS WHAT WE DO INSTEAD---IT SHOULD BE EZ, IF YOU READ IT A FEW TIMES THEN START. LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM OR NEED AN EXPLANATION.I DO GET CARRIED AWAY AND EXCITED, WHEN I FIX A JEEP!

BY THE WAY, DO YA'LL EAT OFF OF THAT INTAKE!

HERE IT IS:

Rotor Button position will not matter, when we do thisWe will however, Mark the place that the TIP is pointingNot on the Distributor Body, Cause its a coming out!

We will find a point as PERPENDICULAR to the button---Then measure to the tip from a UNMOVABLE OBJECT on the engine. As Insurance, Look straight down on it and put a Mark on your Block (INTAKE), below it.

If nothing is lining up to measure from----You can bump the engine around till something does!

After Bumping into placeHIDE YOUR KEYS--WE CANNOT MOVE THE CRANK AGAIN, UNTIL WE PUT THE NEW ONE IN!

We will also measure the Vacuum connection from another UNMOVABLE OBJECT (This will keep the timing close to what it was originally, so it will start and run, you will have to time it anyway, because of slight differences between the two distributors)

DO NOT LOSE YOUR MEASUREMENTS---DO NOT MOVE THE ENGINEOur GOAL IS TO PLACE THE NEW ONE BACK IN, IN THE SAME POSITIONS.

You will have to completely remove the hold down clamp (Since we have the measurement of the vacuum "tit"---The body rotating as you lift it out will not matter now)

As you lift it outDo it slow--slow moottttiiiooon!---The button will rotate as you lift upThe second it stops rotating---it just came out of the CAM GEAR--MENTALLY NOTE ABOUT WHERE THAT OCCURRED!

When you start the new one back in, try to start at the point the old one came outIt will rotate the other direction going inIf all was Perfect--The button will be REALLY REALLY close to the measurement

If not, Pick it back up and rotate the button 1 Tooth, and drop it back in, YOU WILL FINALLY GET THE HANG OF THIS!Is it right yet?

NOW AT THE SAME TIME, IT MUST--MUST--MUST, SEAT ALL THE WAY DOWN. NO FORCING IT---WHATS WRONG IS---THE OIL PUMP DRIVE IS NOT LINED UP---YOU MUST MOVE IT SLIGHTLY---VERY SLIGHTLY, SO THAT WHEN THE DISTRIBUTOR DROPS INIT TOO, WILL DROP INTO PLACE!

IT'S A LITTLE FRUSTRATING, BUT ALL WILL FINALLY GO IN, AND MEASURE RIGHT!

AT LEAST WE WILL NOT HAVE TO GO THRU THE "FIND TDC PROCESS"!

VERY LAST, INSTALL YOUR CLAMP LOOSE ENOUGH SO YOU CAN MEASURE THE VACUUM "TIT" BACK INTO IT'S PREVIOUS TIMED POSITION, AS THE OLD ONE WAS.

DOUBLE CHECK THE POSITIONS AND INSURE IT IS SEATED, JUST LIKE IT IS NOW!

PUT THE CAP ON

CONNECT THE WIRE, AND HE SHOULD BE READY CRANK

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

THE 1ST THING YOOOOU DOOOOO!---IS VERIFY YOU HAVE OIL PRESSURE!

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

LET ME KNOW IF ANY OF THIS, DOES NOT MAKE SENSE BEFORE YOU START!

DO YOU KNOW HOW TO PROPERLY TIME IT---HERE AGAIN, I CAN TALK YOU THRU THAT TOO. And I do not mind!

TOOLS. DWELL/ TACH AND A TIMING LIGHT (I PREFER THE PLAIN JANE, INEXPENSIVE NON-ADJUSTABLE TYPE)

THIS PIC IS MY 6 CYLINDER, MEASURING THE VAC TITI HAVE NO PIC OF MEASURING THE BUTTON.

2ND PIC--AVAILABLE AT "HARBOR FREIGHT", LESS THAN $40, ALL YOU NEED KEPT TOGETHER IN A REALLY SMALL COMPACT ABS CASE. PERFECT FOR A "ONCE IN A WHILE", DO IT YOUR-SELFER

AWAITING SURGERY RESULTS, IN THE WAITING ROOM.

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 11:57 PM
Tiny
CFENGINEER
  • MEMBER
Ok, before I dive off into this I have a couple of questions or statements. I noticed on the new distributor the air gap was very close, maybe a business card could slide between there. On the existing distributor the air gap is better than a 1/16 of an inch. Is there an adustment for that and if so I don't see and obvious way to do it. Second, I think I performed the ohm test incorrectly, yes I know. How could I do that, well I think I out smarted myself. Anyway the meter still read 0.67. So before I dive off into this head first, have I missed a step?
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Thursday, February 17th, 2011 AT 12:46 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
I do not understand "Air Gap"

Do you mean this one sits down further than the old one, in the intake?

Do you have calipers and can compare their machined surfaces?

If it is: Sitting on the intake deeper. Did you install a gasket, one should have come with the unit. If not, make one from gasket material. Or make one from the "Fruity Pebbles Box", that you emptied this morning.

Other than that, if the new one is deeper in, and looks identical to the other.I say, Let's go for it!

Explain if that was not the issue.

As for the test---You have continuity present with both units?

Are the values the same?

Correct me, if I'm not on track!I really do not want to mess you up!

The Medic
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Thursday, February 17th, 2011 AT 2:32 AM
Tiny
CFENGINEER
  • MEMBER
What I refer to as the air gap is between the pickup coil and the reluctor (both shown in pictures below). The third picture shows the inside of the distributor, the gap between the reluctor and the pickup coil in this picture is almost not even noticeable, on mine that gap is greater than 1/16th of an inch, its probably 3/32 of and inch. So there enlies my question. Does that "air gap" adjust or can I just purchase a new pickup coil ir reluctor instead of replacing the entire distributor and messing with the timing and such? Or is it just as easy to replace the distributor in the long run and just get it over with?

Your thoughts?
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Thursday, February 17th, 2011 AT 1:43 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
You are like me----Really into this stuff!

I do not know if you have investigated other CJ 5, CJ 7, and even a CJ 8 Scrambler. Answers I have given in the past.

I sorta really get a "Wad" of info from my AMC 1979 Jeep Service Manual. It covers every Jeep Vehicle in that year.

It was accidentally left in my 2nd Jeep when I purchased it used in 1983, (my 2nd Jeep was a '79 CJ 5)

The Book was "Brand New" and I did not take care of it for maybe the 1st 5 years--Then I realized it was like owning "Sacred Scrolls"!

This same manual has been reproduced (it may be a smaller book now) And there again I will get another soon, As soon as I crack down and get off of my "Donkey" and do it.(I found this on the internet)

It tears the entire Jeep 6 or 8 cylinder, 5 or 7, Cherokee or Truck into nothing-ness! Every test imaginable, and explains in pretty much understandable terms. Diagrams and Pics. Most Tragically, I am missing both covers and the 1st few pages on either end of the book. Yes, I Whine Too. Should have my Butt Kicked!

I just looked for adjusting of the Pick-up coil against the Trigger WheelIT SHOWS NONE, It shows installing the parts, but no mention of the GAP.I'm guessing that is preset. The 2 screws (hex) shown in your pic, can they be loosened and it be slid over?

As long as it doesn't hit now, or with a little future wear or wobble of the shaft I see no problem with it being closer!

NOW FOR A "NELSOMATIC" COMMENTARY!----Buying the parts you displayed, and installing them.$$$ For parts. Labor is Free, Warranty on parts? (I would guess, 1 year max)----VS----$50 Distributor, New bearings/ bushings, new sensor assembly. LIFETIME WARRANTY ('round here, they honor the lifetime deal, I have a entire binder of them for EACH of my Jeeps) I will take pics of that soon, and show you, nearly all of my Engine Compartment, less engine itself, is Lifetime. Includes Headers and Radiator. It's coming soon! Just Hang around!

Lets Review a little!

1) Jeep drove OK. Then Died

2) YOU DID NOT REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR?

3) You have no spark. Fuel down carb did nothing

4) Replaced IGNITION MODULE. Had new one tested before you lest store---BACK UP HERE, MAYBE I DID NOT TELL YOU THIS NEXT PART! Test any MODULE, 5-8 Times on the Autozone or Advance Auto Machine, (Watch'em, make sure they connect them up correctly!) This will sorta warm a module up! If it does not pass last couple of times, GET A NEW ONE. If you get another one, TEST IT TOO, before you leave the store!IT MATTERS NOT, IF THEY GET MAD, THIS IS THEIR JOB, ASK THEM IF THEY WILL HELP DIAGNOSE YOUR JEEP FOR 2 DAYS. OR. TOW YOU IN, IF THE NEW MODULE IS BAD. That "little mess up", that I did not do, had me chasing my tail for 2 days, looking for a Different Problem.

5) We do have voltage to the POS side of the coil

6) We did try POS BATTERY to POS COIL using a Jumper Wire?

7) We may soon get around to installing a Ballast Resistor, because your Resistance Wire, has been Compromised, During an engine swap--258 to 304, This will be done as soon as we can get you cranked up this time!

8) Gimme a quick list of new stuff, and what has been checked by you---No need for super deetail!

Anything you want me to send Email, let me know.I do have a scanner!

The Medic
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Thursday, February 17th, 2011 AT 5:38 PM
Tiny
CFENGINEER
  • MEMBER
There is no visible sign of a manner of adjustment to the pickup coil, so no go there. Of your items above we have not done 4 or 6. Item 4, I replaced the iginetion module this past fall, but have not tested it or replaced it sice we have began dialogue. I can do that maybe friday, if not will have to be Sunday, I have to go out of town Friday and Saturday. I'll get'r tested before we go further! I still question this gap on the existing pickup coul though, it just doesnt look right!
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Thursday, February 17th, 2011 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Here's my personal "REAL/ TRUE OWNERS MANUAL"

PIC 1) This is my Daily/ Whenever Log.I have neglected here lately, At the time I was doing this part, I was attempting to TUNE a Weber DGEV, or was that DEGV.I don't remember, I like my Holley 390 4 bbl on my 258 6 cylinder better.I kept up with the Weber a LOOOOOONG Time. Attempting to do what "EVERYBODY" said was not working, I tried the Holley and doing "Plug Cuts" was not working for me either.I Reckon' I wasn't cut out, to READ PLUG colors to INSTALL CORRECT JETS. When within the right few Jets, I saw no difference in the Colors.

I INSTALLED a O2 Sensor, and a AIR/ FUEL GAUGE and also used a Voltmeter set on "MILLIVOLTS" This Method works wonders in Quick Jet Selections (No more pulling the spark plugs out constantly).I wish I had done that before the Weber, I liked it's Progression from using only one bbl to the progression to using the 2nd bbl (I was mad at it and gave it away!).I like the Holley very much anyway

PIC 2) Any thing that is installed on my Jeep, is in here (a lot not shown)

PIC 3) This is some of the stuff, from when I rebuilt the engine. Part #s are valuable, along with exactly what did get installed, like Push-rod lengths, ETC

PIC 4) THE NEXT FEW PAGES ARE LIFETIME STUFF----There are about 8 pages front and back of these!

PIC 5) If the receipt was on Thermal Paper, I copied it and stapled the "Disappearing" Original to it. No Doubt, it's theirs!

PIC 6) More receipts, even the 1 year ones, They do not pull "JUNK" on me any more, Like: Our Stores are not Connected, We cannot find you in here. My Fuel pump went out in Kentucky, Many miles from South Carolina. After they hit me with all of the Excuses, why they could not "Find" me in the system.I threw the Ole Nelsomatic catalog up on the counter, And got my $20 or so, Lifetime warranty. Since then, I do keep a Fuel Pump, Coil and a Module on Board.I ain't needed 'em yet, But I did do well, repairing 2 other jeeps on the roadside. One was the Fuel Pump, the other was the Module. You can also make a Killin' with A 5 Gallon Fuel Can on the back of your rig. $50 got me to pour the contents into other cars on the roadside (I may have to go up now that it costs me more!)

PIC 7) Other Receipts

PIC 8) My oldest "KEPT" receipt, From "Zone" For the alternator, I have replaced it 5-6 times. At no cost to me, It's from 1991. They have tried to "Keep it" at various stores, but I wouldn't let them. This is "MY WARRANTY" for life, unless they give me the same back, I KEEP THE ORIGINAL!

So, to give you an idea of some of what I have. Alternator, Starter, Distributor, Water pump, Headers, Master Cylinder, Brake shoes (both axles), Radiator, Ignition Module, heater core (2, one in my back-up heater) Blower motors (2, same as last), Squirrel cage fans (2, same as previous), Fuel Pump, Ignition wires.I have spent little on Normal Replacements, since I made my book. That's a good chunk of $$$

PIC 9) Fuel can, air compressor (for my horns, but I do have a air chuck for tires from it too!).I keep tire plugs on board too.I do it all!

The Medic
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Thursday, February 17th, 2011 AT 8:25 PM
Tiny
CFENGINEER
  • MEMBER
Ok I was able to make some progress today. I replaced the distributor and hooked everything back up. I followed all of your instructions and it dropped right in and lined back up exactly like the original one. I hope I was supposed to test it because I did, and after a couple of rough turns of the engine it started. Obvioulsy sounds like the timing is off a little. While it was running I was able to test the positive side of the coil and it was reading over 12 volts. I am assuming the ballast resister will now come into play here, but I will wait for further instructions. Waiting on you.
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Sunday, February 20th, 2011 AT 10:02 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
SOUNDS GREAT SO FAR!

NOW, HOW ARE WE UNDERSTANDING, FOLLOWING YOUR POSITIVE COIL FEED WIRE BACK TO THE "SPLICE" SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAM I SENT. "SPLICE" MEANING MORE THAN ONE WIRE JOINS IN. NOT, JUST A COUPLER OR BUTT SPLICE IN THE LINE.

IS THE SPLICE THERE? WAS IT REMOVED IN THE ENGINE SWAP.

WHAT I "DON'T" WANT DO IS LEAVE PART OF THE ORIGINAL RESISTANCE WIRE IN THE SYSTEM. (THE POSSIBILITY IS, THEY JUST CUT IT SOME WHERE, AND SPLICED REGULAR WIRE ONTO IT)

SO, LET ME KNOW IF YOU CAN START AT THE ORIGINAL SPLICE LOCATION AND RUN A REGULAR WIRE (MAYBE 16 GAUGE) OVER TO THE COIL, KEEP IN MIND, YOU MUST PUT THE BALLAST RESISTOR IN THAT LINE. IT SHOULD BE IN A READILY SEEN SPOT, AWAY FROM ANYTHING THAT IT MIGHT MELT, AND NOTHING CAN HIT THE BACKSIDE, BREAKING IT'S RESISTANCE COIL. WEAVE IT ANY WAY YOU WANT TO, TO KEEP IT IN YOUR WIRE LOOMS AND "PERTTY"!

THE BALLAST, YOU ACQUIRED, PROBABLY DOES NOT MATTER WHICH WAY YOU RUN THRU IT. IF IT EVER GOES BAD, YOU CAN JUST TIE THE 2 WIRES TOGETHER (OR JUMPER OVER THE BALLAST) TO MAKE IT IN.

AFTER YOU GET THAT IN, YOU MIGHT LEAVE A CONNECTOR, CLOSE TO THE POSITIVE COIL---UN-SQUISHED/ UN-CRIMPED."I" TERMINALS WIRE (FROM THE SOLENOID) WILL JOIN IN/ TIE IN THERE, TO PROVIDE "FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE" ONLY WHILE STARTING UP, THEN "I" TERMINAL DIES, WHEN YOU RELEASE THE KEY. AT THAT POINT YOUR BALLAST WIRE WILL TAKE OVER, FEEDING THE COIL.

SURELY, YOU CAN SEE THAT "I" IS A STRAIGHT SHOT TO THE COIL, IN THE DIAGRAM. HIT A SALVAGE YARD TO GET THE LITTLE "PUSH ON" ANGLE CONNECTORS FOR THE SOLENOID. THEY ARE ABOUT THE ONLY THING THAT WILL STAY ON, UNLESS YOU CAN NUT 'EM ON. A SPECIAL ORDER, NEW ONE WAS $18 AT ADVANCE AUTO. THEY ARE LIKE CANDY ON '70s AND '80s FORDS AND JEEPS, COMMON BEHIND THE INSTRUMENTS AND DASH, AND THE SOLENOID. CLIP YOU OFF A HANDFUL!

REMEMBER "S" TERMINAL GOES TO YOU KEY, "I" IS THE OTHER LITTLE ONE, MOST OF THE TIME, THEY ARE MARKED ON THE SOLENOID

ARE WE UP TO SNUFF ON THE WIRING, YOU KNOW I'M HERE IF YOU DO NOT!

SOON AS YOU TELL ME IT RUNS WITH THIS SET-UP. WE WILL TIME IT, DO YOU HAVE A PLAIN JANE TIMING LIGHT AND A DWELL/ TACH METER TO GET RPM RIGHT?

LIKE TO KNOW IF YOU USED A DIAGRAM TO RUN THE VACUUM LINES. IF NOT, WOULD ALSO LIKE TO KNOW WHERE YOUR VACUUM LINES START AND END, WHICH ONES ARE DRAWING "MANIFOLD VACUUM" (S. UCKING ALL THE TIME) WHICH HAVE "PORTED VACUUM" (S. UCK ONLY WHEN YOU CRACK THE THROTTLE). KEEP IN MIND IF THEY RUN THRU SWITCHES AND SUCH, THERE MAY BE NO VACUUM TILL THE SWITCH TURNS ON. SOME GOOD PICS WOULD BE NICE TO TALK ABOUT.

DO THEY TEST YOUR EMISSIONS IN YOUR REGION?

CAN YOU HANDLE THIS. ANSWER MY QUESTIONS!

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, February 20th, 2011 AT 11:10 PM
Tiny
CFENGINEER
  • MEMBER
Ok, in the first pick below you can see the original splice still intact. The heavier gauge wires come from the fire wall and to the ignition coil. This wire is a 16 gauge wire or so and is intact all the way to the coil. There are no other splices on that wire. In the second pitcure you can see my fingure on the solenoid "I" terminal. It has a push wire on it but has been cut all the way to the knub. So if I understand correctly I can splice the coil wire and install the ballast resister, or do you want me to splice in new wire at the original splice and install the resister on that new wire? Also, install a short wire from the "I" terminal over to the "plus" side of the coil?

I do not own a timing light or tach meter, I will have to pick that up tomorrow.

Explain the vaccum hoses to me. The hose off of the vaccum port on the distributor goes to the carburator (small hose). A larger hose connects the carb to the break booster. Thats pretty much it. We don't have to check emissions here.
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Monday, February 21st, 2011 AT 1:19 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
I JUST REVIEWED YOUR WIRES, HERE AND FURTHER BACK ON THE POST, EVERYTHING SEEMS TO BE IN ORDER.

AS FAR AS THE BALLAST GOES, I THINK YOU GRASPED HOW IT SHOULD BE INSTALLED ALONG THE WIRE FEEDING THE POS COIL SIDE. AND HOW "I" WILL CONNECT IN EITHER RIGHT AT THE "OUTPUT" TERMINAL OF MR. BALLAST RESISTOR OR ANYWHERE FROM THAT POINT ON, TILL YOU REACH THE COIL. CONNECTING TO THE "INPUT" SIDE OF MR. BALLAST RESISTOR---TOTALLY DEFEATS THE PURPOSE OF "I" (WE ALREADY HAVE REDUCED VOLTAGE, WHY SEND IT THRU THE RESISTOR AGAIN!). WE WANT TEMPORARY FULL VOLTAGE FOR INITIAL START UP.I KNOW YOU CAUGHT ON, VIA OUR PHONE COMMO, I JUST WANTED TO CATCH ANYBODY ELSE UP, READING THIS!

BE PROUD OF YOURSELF WITH THE DISTRIBUTOR INSTALLATION--THAT IS A SCARY TASK IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE SOMETHING LIKE THAT! YOU WANT THINGS INEXPENSIVE--YOU WANT TO FULLY UNDERSTAND YOUR MACHINE--BUT YOU WANT IT CORRECT AND NOT SHELLING OUT ALSO! THAT'S HOW I APPROACH THINGS TOO, FIND OUT ALL I CAN--MAYBE SEVERAL SOURCES!--THEN YOU JUST GOTTA GO FOR IT!

LET ME KNOW WHEN YOU ARE READY, WE WE START THE TIMING PROCESS

IF YOU WILL, TAKE THE VACUUM LINE LOOSE AT THE DISTRIBUTOR, USING A VACUUM GAUGE, WHATS THE READING (EX: 20 INCHES OF MERCURY) AT IDLE (WARM)----DOES IT INCREASE IF YOU CRACK THE THROTTLE. EXPLAIN RESULTS

THE MEDIC
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Monday, February 21st, 2011 AT 3:36 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
OK, Heres my "GOES NO WHERE, WIRE LOOP"

I cut into NEGATIVE COIL WIRE well above the Coil Connector

It's Only use is to connect my Dwell/ Tach Meter to it when tuning.

It keeps me from stabbing a screwdriver, nail, paper-clip into my coil connector. It's also a much better connection to my meter.

Achieved by cutting the NEG COIL WIRE--then splicing it back together with a Butt Spice, but adding a loop of wire on either end of the splice (sounds dumb!) Then cut the loop and add a Male and Female Insulated Spade Connector to the 2 new ends.

This allows it to be connected together, keeping it clean and from grounding out.

Pulling it apart, I can alligator clip my meter to the male spade

Or I can test the coil

The Medic
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Wednesday, February 23rd, 2011 AT 4:50 AM
Tiny
CFENGINEER
  • MEMBER
Medic,
Thanks for all the tips and the step by step instructions for getting my CJ7 "Beast" back up an running. The pics and mods that you have come up with are great for understanding what is going on and how to fix and/or improve performance/operation. I also appreciate you taking time to talk me through and teach me the "timing" process and being available on the weekend to walk me through it.

Thanks Again Medic!
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Monday, February 28th, 2011 AT 2:17 PM

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