I just bought from a friend. I drove for three days about 30 miles around town. The headlights blinked twice then stayed on it was kind of weird. I get to house turn jeep off and turn all lights off. Next morning when I go to show my wife jeep and take her for a spin it wont start.
I have got the lights running. I changed out dimmer switch and headlight switch. Harnesses were rusty and corroded.
Now I cant get it to start. I have checked battery, fuel at tank, fuel delivery to carb, I know it cranks but wont start. Here is where I need help. Im not scared to work on my own cars I just need to know where to start on jeeps never had a jeep but I wont give up on it. I will get it to start.
GIVE IT A SHOT OF STARTER FLUID DOWN THE CARB, LET ME KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IT DOES
IF NO POSITIVE RESULTS AT ALL, PULL #1 SPARK PLUG WIRE, STICK A SMALL NAIL/ PAPER CLIP/ ETC METAL OBJECT BETWEEN THE RING INSIDE THE BOOT AND THE BOOT ITSELF. HOLD THE PLUG WIRE W/ NAIL ABOUT A 1/4" FROM EXPOSED METAL ON THE ENGINE. HAVE YOUR PAL CRANK IT OVER. DO YOU HAVE SPARK?
GIVE ME YOUR RESULTS AND ANY OTHER INFO ABOUT YOUR JEEP YOU HAVE LEFT OUT
July, 1, 2012 AT 4:42 AM
First of all let me thank you for replying to my question.
First step is spray with starting fluid I did just that and it did nothing, I recordered all steps and I would like to transfer to your by email so you can verify steps were done as per your request.
Second I took off spark plug #1 wire which is at rear of engine as per repair manual, I also recorded and then put a paperclip between rubber and metal and held 1/4 from unit and my son cranked it and no spark.
I like your process of elimination. What's next bossman?
If you want videos emaile djust shoot me your email, you probably don't but I like to provide justification and proof in case it is asked for.
July, 1, 2012 AT 10:55 PM
LET'S DEAL WITH THE LIGHTS LATER
LET'S GET YOUR SPARK 1ST
........THIS SPARK TEST YOU DID WAS FINE, "NUMBER 1" IS AT THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE....YOU COULDA TESTED ANY ONE OF THEM, IT DON'T MATTER
NEED TO KNOW "WHAT ENGINE?"...ANY MODIFICATIONS STRAYING FROM FACTORY?...SO FAR YOU HAVEN'T SAID!...UNLESS I MISSED IT
I WANT YOU TO DO ANOTHER TEST, THIS WILL REQUIRE A VOLTMETER---SEE MY 1ST PIC...DISREGARD MY "VALUE", WHAT DO YOU GET?
DO YOU HAVE A VOLTMETER/ REPAIR MANUAL (WHICH?)/ DWELL-TACH/ TIMING LIGHT?
HAVE YOU READ ANY OF MY STUFF?
I LINK PEOPLE TO DIFFERENT THINGS, THIS SPEEDS THINGS UP, AND KEEPS ME FROM HUNTING AND PECKING INTO THE WEE HOURS OF THE MORNING. DON'T JUMP AHEAD OF ME...IF I LINK YOU TO SOMETHING, I MAY SAY "SEE MY ANSWER ON THE 32ND OF JUNE" IN THIS POST (THEN THE LINK).....JUMPING AHEAD MAY NOT BE THE ROUTE FOR YOU TO TAKE!
IF YOU GET DO GET A VALUE OF LET'S SAY, 7 VOLTS OR GREATER DO THIS TEST NEXT....AT THE AUTO PARTS STORE
SEE MY ANSWER ON "MAY 31ST 2012"----YOU SHOULD HAVE A "MOTORCRAFT IGNITION MODULE" OR IT'S EQUIVALENT ON YOUR '82
(FORGET THIS POST IS FOR A WAGONEER, MOTORCRAFT IGNITION IS THE SAME)
LET ME KNOW HOW IT'S GOING, ANY QUESTIONS SO FAR?....I'LL HANG AS LONG AS YOU DO YOUR END AND SEND RESULTS!
July, 2, 2012 AT 12:41 AM
Doing the first test I got.622 at 12v setting on voltmeter. Is this my problem.
July, 2, 2012 AT 1:10 AM
MAYBE NOT---KEY WAS ON. CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE AT THE POS AND NEG TERMINAL--AT THE BATTERY. WHATCHU GOT THERE?
I UPGRADED MINE FROM PRESTOLITE TO MOTORCRAFT.I HAD TO INSTALL A "BALLAST RESISTOR" IN MY POS WIRE. ORIGINALLY MINE DID NOT HAVE A RESISTANCE WIRE "BUILT IN" AS YOURS DOES. OUR READINGS MAY NOT BE THE 'ZACKLY THE SAME!
AFTER YOU GIVE ME BATTERY VOLTS
TELL ME ANYTHING YOU HAVE CHANGED OR DONE RECENTLY
********LETS MOVE ON TO THE MODULE TESTING--READ HOW TO GET IT LOOSE AGAIN***********
I REALIZE THE IMPORTANCE OF WINNING OVER THE FEMALE. WE WILL GET YOU THERE, MAYBE EVEN MORE THAN YOU CAME FOR. HAVE YOU LOOKED OVER THE OTHER FELLERS I HAVE HELPED HERE?
I TOLD MINE, WHEN WE WERE DATING, "MY JEEPS AND I ARE 'ONE'. MUST LOVE US ALL TO LOVE ONE"
July, 2, 2012 AT 1:39 AM
Yes sir key was on. Voltage at battery is 12.8 volts.
July, 2, 2012 AT 2:29 AM
OK WITH YOUR INFO
I'M SORTA AT AN INTERSECTION: MODULE, OR MAYBE DISTRIBUTOR
WE'LL TRY THE DISTRIBUTOR PICK UP COIL 1ST.....THEN YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO TRY THE MODULE TEST FROM ABOVE POST FROM THE WAGONEER
KNOW HOW TO DO A CONTINUITY TEST? MANY VIDEOS FOR THIS, MAYBE YOU'LL LIKE HIS ACCENT!
HAVE YOU CHANGED THE COIL?....ANSWER ONLY....DON'T DO IT NOW
DOES IT "TRY" OR SPIT AND SPUTTER---OR IS IT JUST "DRY" OVER AND OVERS?
July, 3, 2012 AT 5:19 AM
When I went to inspect the pick up coil and test according to Haynes manual I found wires were spliced and o e was broken and not making full contact. I bought new one and replaced. Went to crank it and immediately acted as it wanted to turn on. I had my buddy crank it hole I was out at engine compartment and as I put my weight on top of distributor cap it moved towards engine like it was loose and it turned on.
I am able to move distributor back and forth and it will adjust engine timing. I tightened 1/2 wrench where I felt and saw the engine run its best at idle.
Now I got engine on. How can I verify that engine timing is right. I do t have timing gun but I will buy one. Jut mention which one.