Problem: CJ-7 sat for years, started up, then.

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
YOU DO WHAT YOU GOTTA DO!

YOUR PICS OF THE CHOKE AIN'T SHOWIN' FOR ME

THE WIRE TO THE CHOKE COVER (HEATER INSIDE IT) NEEDS TO GO TO SOMETHING "HOT" ONLY WHEN THE KEY IS ON (OR JEEP RUNNING).......DEAD, WHEN IT'S OFF

I DON'T WANT YOU CUTTING INTO STUFF UNDER THE HOOD!!!!

LETS RUN A 14 GAUGE WIRE FROM THE FUSE BOX OUT THERE TO IT

CRIMP A "SPADE" CONNECTOR ON THE END AND PLUG IT INTO THE FUSE BOX

SEE THIS LINK

https://www.2carpros.com/images/question_images/199464/original.jpg

USE THE "CRUISE"...."AC/COMP"....."A/C" FEMALE SOCKET FOR THE SPADE..................WITH A VOLTMETER OR TEST LIGHT.....INSURE IT COMES "ON" WHEN THE KEY IS ON....."OFF" WHEN THE KEY IS OFF

ABOUT 2 INCHES FROM WHERE IT GOES IN TO THE FUSE BOXINSTALL A 10 AMP FUSE (USING 2 FEMALES INSULATED STAKE-ON CONNECTORS).............THIS IS JUST ADDED CIRCUIT PROTECTION......MAKE IT LOOK LIKE I DID MY "JUMPER WIRE" IN THIS LINK..................I BELIEVE A "10 AMP" WILL BE ADEQUATE....LET ME KNOW IF IT BLOWS, AFTER IT ALL INSTALLED

SEE MY 15 AMP FUSE IN PIC 2.... (MY JUMPER'S FUSE PROTECTION) ON THIS PAGE

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1970-mercury-marquis-friend-marquis-having-trouble-starting-running-could/page/2

CONTINUE THRU THE FUSE AND GO TO THE CHOKE COVER--INSTALL A FEMALE STAKE-ON CONNECTOR AND HOOK TO THE SPADE ON THE CHOKE COVER

NOW.....YOU SHOULD HAVE THIS..............STARTING AT THE FUSE BOX:

A SPADE.......2 INCHES (OR SO) OF WIRE (14 GAUGE).........AN INSULATED FEMALE......A 10 AMP FUSE......ANOTHER INSULATED FEMALE..........4-5 FEET OF WIRE (14 GAUGE).......A FEMALE CONNECTOR...............................ONE END TO CHOKE.......THE FUSED END INTO THE FUSE BOX

..................YOUR VERY LAST STEP WILL BE TO ACTUALLY PLUG IT INTO THE FUSE BOX

YOU ARE ACTIVATING THE THROTTLE WHEN YOU "TWIST" THE CHOKE COVER???

THE BUTTERFLY WON'T FULLY STAND VERTICAL?

SOMEBODY DON'T HAVE THE "STEP SCREW" RUN ALL THE WAY IN......SO THAT IT'S ALWAYS IDLED TOO HIGH....AND WON'T DROP DOWN TO CURB IDLE?

MAYBE THE LINKAGE RODS HAVE BEEN REMOVED AND PUT BACK ON WRONG?

THERE ARE 3 VIEWS OF THIS CARB----ENLARGE IT SEE IF YOU CAN SEE THE LINKAGES TO THE CHOKE...COMPARE WITH YOURS

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Autoline-Carburetor/1981-Jeep-CJ7/_/N-ilgjhZ8vd1l?itemIdentifier=56549_0_0_

I HOPE YOU CAN SEE WHAT'S WRONG....AND IT WAS SOMETHING STUPID!

I STILL HAVE MORE INFO---IF YOU CAN'T GET IT TO OPEN FULLY.........TRYIN' NOT TO OVERWHELM YOU!

SORRY ABOUT THE SITE MALFUNCTION

KEEP ME POSTED.....I'M EATIN' THIS UP!!!

THE MEDIC

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Monday, April 15th, 2013 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
LOOKS LIKE PART OF THAT DID NOT COME THRU----I'M GLAD I COPIED IT!!!!

HERE'S THE LAST ANSWER.....ALL OVER AGAIN!

YOU DO WHAT YOU GOTTA DO!

YOUR PICS OF THE CHOKE AIN'T SHOWIN' FOR ME

THE WIRE TO THE CHOKE COVER (HEATER INSIDE IT) NEEDS TO GO TO SOMETHING "HOT" ONLY WHEN THE KEY IS ON (OR JEEP RUNNING).......DEAD, WHEN IT'S OFF

I DON'T WANT YOU CUTTING INTO STUFF UNDER THE HOOD!!!!

LETS RUN A 14 GAUGE WIRE FROM THE FUSE BOX OUT THERE TO IT

CRIMP A "SPADE" CONNECTOR ON THE END AND PLUG IT INTO THE FUSE BOX

USE THE "CRUISE"...."AC/COMP"....."A/C" FEMALE SOCKET FOR THE SPADE..................WITH A VOLTMETER OR TEST LIGHT.....INSURE IT COMES "ON" WHEN THE KEY IS ON....."OFF" WHEN THE KEY IS OFF

ABOUT 2 INCHES FROM WHERE IT GOES IN TO THE FUSE BOXINSTALL A 10 AMP FUSE (USING 2 FEMALES INSULATED STAKE-ON CONNECTORS).............THIS IS JUST ADDED CIRCUIT PROTECTION......MAKE IT LOOK LIKE I DID MY "JUMPER WIRE" IN THIS LINK..................I BELIEVE A "10 AMP" WILL BE ADEQUATE....LET ME KNOW IF IT BLOWS, AFTER IT ALL INSTALLED

SEE MY 15 AMP FUSE IN PIC 2.... (MY JUMPER'S FUSE PROTECTION) ON THIS PAGE

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1970-mercury-marquis-friend-marquis-having-trouble-starting-running-could/page/2

CONTINUE THRU THE FUSE AND GO TO THE CHOKE COVER--INSTALL A FEMALE STAKE-ON CONNECTOR AND HOOK TO THE SPADE ON THE CHOKE COVER

NOW.....YOU SHOULD HAVE THIS..............STARTING AT THE FUSE BOX:

A SPADE.......2 INCHES (OR SO) OF WIRE (14 GAUGE).........AN INSULATED FEMALE......A 10 AMP FUSE......ANOTHER INSULATED FEMALE..........4-5 FEET OF WIRE (14 GAUGE).......A FEMALE CONNECTOR...............................ONE END TO CHOKE.......THE FUSED END INTO THE FUSE BOX

..................YOUR VERY LAST STEP WILL BE TO ACTUALLY PLUG IT INTO THE FUSE BOX

YOU ARE ACTIVATING THE THROTTLE WHEN YOU "TWIST" THE CHOKE COVER???

THE BUTTERFLY WON'T FULLY STAND VERTICAL?

SOMEBODY DON'T HAVE THE "STEP SCREW" RUN ALL THE WAY IN......SO THAT IT'S ALWAYS IDLED TOO HIGH....AND WON'T DROP DOWN TO CURB IDLE?

MAYBE THE LINKAGE RODS HAVE BEEN REMOVED AND PUT BACK ON WRONG?

THERE ARE 3 VIEWS OF THIS CARB----ENLARGE IT SEE IF YOU CAN SEE THE LINKAGES TO THE CHOKE...COMPARE WITH YOURS

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Autoline-Carburetor/1981-Jeep-CJ7/_/N-ilgjhZ8vd1l?itemIdentifier=56549_0_0_

I HOPE YOU CAN SEE WHAT'S WRONG....AND IT WAS SOMETHING STUPID!

I STILL HAVE MORE INFO---IF YOU CAN'T GET IT TO OPEN FULLY.........TRYIN' NOT TO OVERWHELM YOU!

SORRY ABOUT THE SITE MALFUNCTION

KEEP ME POSTED.....I'M EATIN' THIS UP!!!

THE MEDIC

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Monday, April 15th, 2013 AT 12:00 PM
Tiny
MISTER.WOMBAT
  • MEMBER
Good call on the choke cover wire!

Electrical problems are right up my alley (EE by trade), so this one was easy to debug. I checked the voltage at the cover and got nothing, so I started tracing it back. To make a long story short, all the components in the path were good, but some of the connections were bad/corroded. After cleaning everything up, I get power to the choke now when the engine is running.

So now the choke opens right up and stands vertical. The fast idle cam is now totally out of the way when I kick the throttle down.

Took it for another spin down the street, and we're running strong again. Not perfect, but not choking and dying like it used to.

Here's where I am now: I come back and park it and let it idle. It's steady around 1100RPM, so I tried to adjust it down, but I can't. I did find the CORRECT idle screw, and I can increase the idle by turning it in, but I can only decrease down to about 1100, then the curb idle screw disengages. I triple-checked and the fast idle cam is DEFINITELY disengaged completely. Sidenote: it was idling at 900RPM before I drove up the street and back.

I'm going to try adjusting the mixture next, but i'm not sure how to proceed with such a fast idle. It appears there is a single mixture "screw", though it's not actually a screw but a knob to turn. What else could be keeping the idle so high?

Second problem: my old dwell meter died, and the guy at o'reilly's has never heard of a dwell meter ><
I think I can solve that problem though.
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Monday, April 15th, 2013 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
A PAWN SHOP IS A GOOD PLACE TO PICK UP A "DINASAUR" METER. THEY MAY HAVE NO CLUE WHAT IT IS EITHER. MIGHT BE ABLE TO TALK 'EM DOWN!

IT WILL BE IMPOSSIBLE TO ADJUST THE MIX WITH SUCH A HIGH IDLE

. THAT HIGH, AND YOU ARE RUNNING OFF OF THE MAIN CIRCUIT (THE VENTURIES). NOT THE IDLE CIRCUIT

HERE'S SOME THINGS TO CHECK. VACUUM LEAKS

. PULL OFF THE LINES GOING TO EACH VACUUM PORT, THEN CAO THE PORT. ONE AT A TIME. PUT IT BACK, BEFORE YOU PULL OFF THE NEXT ONE

. LEAVE THE PCV LINE ALONE. UNLESS IT'S NASTIFIED. THEN REPLACE IT!

ONCE YOU PULL OFF THE RIGHT LINE AND CAP IT, AND THE ENGINE SLOWS DOWNPUT IT BACK ON---AND TRACE IT OUTTILL YOU FIND THE LEAK, MAY BE A HOSE.A FITTING. AN APPLIANCE LEAKING

IF YOU HAVE POWER BRAKES---START WITH THAT LINE, THE DIAPHRAGM IN THE BOOSTER MAY HAVE A HOLE IN IT. SOMETIMES THIS IS DETECTABLE, BY LISTENING TO THE ENGINE SPEED WHILE GETTING ON AND OFF OF THE BRAKES. IF NOT. CAP THAT PORT FOR A TEST
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LOOK AT THE THROTTLE ON THE CARB, IS SOMETHING PREVENTING IT FROM CLOSING ON DOWN?
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. CAN YOU GENTLY TWIST THE THROTTLE ARM AND MAKE IT CLOSE. MAYBE YOU NEED TO OIL THE SHAFT

HAS SOMEONE "MAN-HANDLED" THE THROTTLE, OVER TWISTED IT, MAYBE BENT THE SHAFT OR DEFORMED THE BUTTERFLY (DEEP IN THE THROAT).(TIME FOR ANOTHER CARB)

MAYBE IT'S DIRTY---OPEN IT BY HAND AND BLAST SOME CARB CLEANER ON BOTH SIDES OF THE BUTTERFLY AND CARB THROAT

("VALUE KRAFT" OR "VALUE CRAFT" CARBURETOR CLEANER FOUND AT "AUTOZONE" IS THE VERY BEST I HAVE FOUND. RUNS CIRCLES AROUND THE OTHERS!)

BLAST IT----WAIT 5 MINUTES---BLAST IT AGAIN!

THIS IS FUN!

LEMME KNOW ANY RESULTS. GLAD YOU GOT FAST IDLE CAM DOWNARE YOU POSITIVE IT IS NOT HOLDING THE THROTTLE OPEN AT ALL?

THE MEDIC
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Monday, April 15th, 2013 AT 7:55 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
THE 1ST HALF OF THAT GOT LOST!

I SAID

WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING

TAKE THE VACUUM LINES OFF OF THEIR PORT AND CAP THE PORT (VACUUM CAP OR A SHORT PIECE OF HOSE WITH A 1/4 BOLT IN IT)

DO THIS "ONE PORT AT A TIME"

REPLACE EACH LINE, BACK WHERE IT WAS----BEFORE YOU DO THE NEXT ONE

HOPEFULLY YOU WILL RUN INTO ONE THAT WHEN IT IS CAPPED----THE ENGINE RPM WILL SLOW DOWN

. HOOK IT BACK UP AND TRACE IT OUT---WHERE EVER IT TEEs---GOES INTO A FIXTURE---ETC

NOTE:

THE PCV IS A "CONTROLLED VACUUM LEAK"NO NEED TO MESS WITH IT, UNLESS IT'S LINE IS IN TERRIBLE SHAPE OR SPLIT (REPLACE THE LINE). REMOVING AND CAPPING THE PCV VACUUM PORT WILL DEFINITELY SLOW THE ENGINE DOWN THAT'S "NOT" OUR LINE THAT IS LEAKING. IT'S SOMEWHERE ELSE!

THIS IS ABOUT WHERE THE ANSWER ABOVE SHOULD TAKE OVER!

THE MEDIC
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Monday, April 15th, 2013 AT 8:14 PM

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