Engine Wiring

Tiny
JOEF1985
  • MEMBER
  • 1979 JEEP CJ5
  • 4.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
I need a good copy of the wiring for a 1979 CJ5 that the misses recently bought. I saw CJ Medevac had one but when I opened the attachments they did not look like they matched up in an earlier post. So Medevac if you can please reach out to me it would be great. I am fellow Carolinian just from the North near Charlotte. I look forward to your expertise as we breathe life back into this old jeep.

Thank you
Joe
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Saturday, July 4th, 2015 AT 9:59 PM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
YEP, I SCANNED A 2 PIECE DIAGRAM FROM A MANUAL

I TOOK IT TO "MICROSOFT PAINT" AND COLORED THE WIRES THE BEST THAT I COULD

HERE'S THINGS YOU MUST KNOW TO READ IT ACCURATELY

A) ALONG EACH WIRE [MAYBE SEVERAL PLACES] IS "WORDING" OR A "LABEL" WITH THE SIZE AND COLOR(S) FOR THE WIRE

B) A "WHITE WIRE" WILL SHOW UP BLACK!

C) A SOLID COLOR WIRE WILL BE LABELED LIKE THIS "12A RED 10"

12A IS A NUMERICAL REFERENCE # / RED IS THE COLOR / 10 IS THE GAUGE OF THE WIRE

HERE'S THE PART THAT WILL BE SORTA CONFUSING

D) SOME WIRES HAVE TRACER STRIPES, THE MANUAL DID NOT TELL WHAT COLOR THE STRIPE WAS (ON ANY OF THE STRIPED WIRES) THEY ARE LABELED LIKE THIS "8A GRN / TR-18".

8A BEING A NUMERICAL REFERENCE # / GRN, MEANING GREEN WIRE / TR MEANING IT HAS A COLORED STRIPE DOWN THE WIRE (STRIPE COLOR UNKNOWN )

SO SO SO SO SO TO MAKE IT EZ TO KNOW/ SEE THERE WAS A WIRE WITH A TRACER STRIPE, I SIMPLY PUT BLACK DASHES ALONG THOSE WIRES (EXCEPTION WAS ON THE WHITE WIRES)

BUT STILL, THE ACTUAL STRIPE COLOR WILL NOT BE KNOWN TILL YOU FIND THE ACTUAL WIRE, WHERE IT STARTS OR ENDS ON THE JEEP (SORRY! IT DOES WORK FOR ME!)

E) ILLUSIONS! SOMETIMES IT MAY LOOK LIKE A WIRE STOPS, AN EXAMPLE MIGHT BE 3 RED WIRES GOING INTO A SPLICE, WELL ONE OF 'EM HAS A "LABEL" RIGHT AT THE SPLICE (THE RED COLOR DOES NOT GO THRU THE LABEL)

SO 2 "RED WIRES" HIT THE SPLICE ALONG WITH A "LABEL"- AT A GLANCE YOU ONLY SEE 2 RED WIRES WHEN THERE ARE ACTUALLY 3. JUST BE AWARE OF THE LABEL "STILL BEING" A WIRE. YOU CAN SEE ONE EXAMPLE OF THIS IN ONE PLACE WHERE THE IGNITION MODULE GETS IT'S POWER AT "SPLICE L"

MY 2 DIAGRAMS OVERLAP ABOUT ON THE LINE BETWEEN "5 AND 6" OF THE OUTER RIM REFERENCE LINES. TO ME IT LOOKS LIKE THE RIGHT SIDE DIAGRAM FITS BETTER ON TOP OF THE LEFT SIDE DIAGRAM AT THE OVERLAP. YOU WILL NOTICE THE FUSE BOX IS THE AREA OF THE OVERLAP.

I SENT MY 2 PARTS TO THE OFFICE STORE VIA EMAIL, HAD 'EM BLOWN UP, I TAPED THEM TOGETHER AT THE OVERLAP, THEN THE OFFICE STORE LAMINATED THE ONE BIG DIAGRAM FOR ME. IT'S SO MUCH EZier TO READ IT NOW!

ANY ISSUES WITH THIS OR ANY OTHER CJ ISSUE, SIMPLY ANSWER BACK ON THIS THREAD!

IF THIS AIN'T-A-WORKIN' OUT, POST A "THROW AWAY EMAIL ADDRESS", I'LL SEND THE DIAGRAMS TO THERE

I WAS UP YOUR WAY LAST WEEK, WIFE INSISTED WE TAKE ONE OF THE GRANDS TO CAROWINDS. GOTTA LOVE THE HALF-BUTT SHAKE DOWN DURING THE ENTRY PROCESS, WHEREAS I HAD TO SURRENDER MY POCKET KNIFE AND 4" CRESCENT WRENCH TO LOST AND FOUND, TILL I LEFT THE PARK. NEXT TIME I WANNA REMAIN INCOGNITO, THEY SELL POCKET KNIVES RIGHT THERE IN THE GIFT SHOP, GO FIGURE? I REALLY LIKED THE 2 HOUR WAIT TO LEAVE THE PARKING LOT DURING THE STORM.

I'M 'BOUT 2-1/2 HOURS FROM YOU

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, July 5th, 2015 AT 7:41 AM
Tiny
JOEF1985
  • MEMBER
Good Morning,

I hope you and your family had an excellent 4th of July.

I appreciate your expedited response and what you sent makes sense. I guess in one of the other posts when I looked at the two halves they looked different like they didn't go together. I will take them to the office store today to get them ready for the electrical assault I attend on performing.

The present issue I am having is.

I keep blowing solenoids. 2 new ones total as of yesterday. They keep welding shut and allowing pass through which enables the engine to crank on its own without key. The wiring looks mostly original except for the previous owners adding Halogen lights to the bumper.

I did put my volt tester on it last night key off on the I side post of solenoid it is passing 12.5V straight through. Also the S wire regardless of key in/out or run position is showing.45V. I am going to get a new solenoid today and retest to see if I get the same results with a new one right after I put it on.

As you are experienced what do you think about this. I am thinking it may be the neutral switch causing the issue.

I will be posting detail pictures front to back later this evening of the vehicle. Sorry to give you details ahead of pictures but was just excited you answered, so dove in there.

Yeah oh Carowinds! The slogan for that place should be " The cluster of the Carolina's!" The only time to go there and have a decent time is during the week when everyone is working. If you find yourself there on the weekend you become engulfed in a sea of kids who in the last two to three weeks of summer vacation have lost there basic knowledge and concept of standing in a line from school. Luckily my son is only 5 and we avoid all commercials, billboards, and Carowinds Blvd area (except for Frugal McDougals, which is a precisely planned trip when he falls asleep in the car!) As a precaution!

I do appreciate your time in helping fellow CJ owners. I am not the jeep person in the family but the misses is and she is hoping I assimilate. I am sure I will grow to love them as time goes but for now regardless of whatever badge, it needs to fixed and fixed right so we can enjoy it for years to come.

Also as a little tidbit of info we actually bought this jeep last weekend out of your great state. We found it on Craiglist near Charleston, SC.

Well I look forward to your direction in the issues I may have now and in the future. Also as I stated I will make sure I get detail pictures front to back.

Thank you
Joe
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Sunday, July 5th, 2015 AT 9:02 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
HOOD AGAINST THE WINDSHIELD FRAME

BREATHER COMPLETELY OFF

LEFT/ RIGHT/ ABOVE PICS

ALSO A FEW FROM DIFFERENT ANGLES AROUND THE CARB AND INTAKE (SO I CAN SEE VACUUM LINE ROUTING)

IF YOU AIN'T ANNUALLY TESTED (WE AIN'T DOWN HERE) MUCH OF THE PROBABLY AIN'T WORKING STUFF CAN BE ELIMINATED-THERE ARE ONLY 2 NECESSARY VACUUM LINES FOR THE ENGINE-ONE MORE IF YOU HAVE POWER BRAKES.

YOU DO NOT HAVE A NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH ON A MANUAL 258! SO RULE THAT OUT!

I'M HAPPY THAT OTHERS READ MY STUFF! (READ A LOT OF IT?) HOWEVER, THAT USUALLY TAKES ME OUT OF THE EQUATION AS FAR AS GIVING A PERSONAL ANSWER AND "STEERING" THE FIX IN THE PROPER DIRECTION ACCORDING TO WHAT THE SYMPTOMS ARE. SO FEW CJs SHOW UP HERE ANYWAY (DUE TO THEM BEING SO AWESOME AND EZ TO REPAIR TO BEGIN WITH!) I SORTA JUST SIT AROUND LIKE THE MAYTAG MAN WAITING FOR A CALL!

DON'T BUY NUTHIN' ELSE YET, AS I ALREADY KINDA KNOW WHERE TO GET STUFF FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES, SOME OF WHICH I CAN SHOW YOU HOW TO SAVE SOME SERIOUS FUNDAGE.

I'VE HAD SIX CJ-5s AND A WILLYS, (THIS PRESENT '77 AND '46 WILL PROBABLY LAST ME FOREVER!) ALL WERE MY PRIMARY TRANSPORTATION ("WILLY" NOT QUITE AS MUCH). THIS ALL STARTED IN 1981 WHEN I WAS FINALLY ALLOWED ON THE ASPHALT. I'VE BEEN LOOKING OVER THAT SAME HOOD SILHOUETTE FOR 34 YEARS NOW, I'D DIE IF IT WERE TAKEN FROM ME!

I SORTA PUT THE 1st ONES TO THE TEST, TAKE IT FROM ME, THEY CAN TAKE ABUSE. 'COURSE THE CLEAN UPS AND MINOR REPAIRING GOT OLD (AS I AM TOO). "HELL DAMAGE" OVER THE YEARS HAS BEEN MINIMAL. NOW THEY ARE MY "CRUISEMOBILES", ABLE TO GO WHERE I WANT THEM TO, WHEN I WANNA GO (I DO TAKE IT EZ NOW, AVOIDING THE BAD-BAD STUFF). I HAVEN'T TURNED SOFT, 'CAUSE I KNOW WHAT THEY CAN DO, AND WE WILL DO, IF IT BECOMES NECESSARY!

WHEN YOU SEE THE SIMPLICITY AND STURDINESS OF THIS PUPPY, IT WILL WIN YOU OVER.

HERE'S A RECENT ONE, SEE IF IT HELPS ANY, WAITING ON HIS NEXT REPLY (OF COURSE, COME BACK HERE TO ANSWER ABOUT YOURS)

I MADE A MISTAKE IN MY ANSWER, TRIED TO MAKE IT "ALL BETTER" IN NEXT ANSWER (BUT IT SURELY WILL CONFUSE YOU IF YOU DON'T SEE THE "ALL BETTER"! I SENT A MESSAGE TO THE BIG GUYS TO FIX IT, BUT NO RESPONSE YET

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/having-electrical-problems-on-my-83-cj7

THIS PIC MAY SHOW THE DEAL BETTER

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, July 5th, 2015 AT 10:42 AM
Tiny
JOEF1985
  • MEMBER
Good Evening,

Here is the pictures I promised. I am going to send one more message with two more I took. I attempted to get a few angles and all the electric components. I didn't have time to clean it up to be more presentable so I hope you understand. I was really hoping to get the engine running before I tore it down and started repainting everything. Let me know if you see anything out of the way.

In your personal opinion would you recommend a complete rotisserie or the misses dad said he would remove the body down to rolling chassis and spray the frame and guts with rust converter.

Any thoughts and suggestions would be grateful as I undertake this project so I can finish it and move onto replacing the transom in my boat LOL!

Thank you
Joe
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Sunday, July 5th, 2015 AT 6:37 PM
Tiny
JOEF1985
  • MEMBER
Here is the remaining two.

Thank you
Joe
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Sunday, July 5th, 2015 AT 6:38 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
WORKED LATE

HONEY-DOs

'BOUT TO COPY YOUR PICS OVER TO MINE SO I CAN BRIGHTEN THEM UP AND MAYBE ENLARGE 'EM

BEAR WITH ME

I HAVEN'T ABANDONED A CJ ON 2CAR YET!

ANOTHER DIAGRAM FOR YOU (PROBABLY SEEN IN OTHER POSTS I ANSWERED). AROUND THE IGN MODULE CONNECTIONS, THIS IS A GOOD EXAMPLE OF THE "WRITING ON THE WIRE" SORTA MAKES YOU THINK THE COLOR ENDED OR WIRE ENDED. THE WRITING IS ACTUALLY "THE WIRE", SO FOLLOW THRU IT (IN THIS CASE TO THE SPLICE)

KINDA TELL ME HOW FAR WE ARE GONNA GO WITH THIS?

LIKE WIRES STRAIGHTENED OUT AND A TUNE-UP? CATCH UP ON ALL THE FLUIDS TO INCLUDE THE DIFFS? BRAKES? I'M GAME FOR ANY OF IT!

THE MEDIC
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Monday, July 6th, 2015 AT 6:14 PM
Tiny
JOEF1985
  • MEMBER
Good Evening,

The plan is to full restore the jeep over the period of its time with us. Depending on cost will dictate on how long the restoration will take.

As I stated, I would like to hear the engine run to get an idea if there is any issues before I start tearing it down and sending it to paint. So if I decide to take it down to the frame while I have the engine out I can take care of any issues it has with great mobility. So let say if it needs a new cam, I can take care of it while it is out of the frame.

I know that I will need a new header and probably manifold as well at this time.

I hope this clear up our intentions and dedication on the jeep.

Thank you
Joe
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Tuesday, July 7th, 2015 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
WE COULD ELIMINATE SOME OF THOSE VACUUM LINES (LESS FUTURE PROBLEMS)

FROM WHAT I CAN SEE THEY ARE CORRECT- IT'S YOUR CALL

YOU NEED TO HIT A SALVAGE YARD, AN '80s FORD BATTERY TRAY MAY YIELD THE HOLD DOWN CLAMP THAT IS MISSING

PIC 1 SHOWS MINE

SOMETHING ELSE THAT'S GONNA BOUNCE OFF AND LEAVE YOU SCRATCHING YOUR HEAD ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD IS THIS PUPPY (WHICH HAS BEEN RIGGED ON YOURS) GET ONE LIKE IN THIS LINK

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-by-bwd-pigtail-socket-pt5764/20974639-P?searchTerm=ignition+coil+connector

HERE'S WHAT IT SHOULD LOOK LIKE, SEE PIC 2

IN PIC 2 ALSO NOTICE UP THERE AT THE TOP OF THE COIL, I HAVE A "MALE" AND "FEMALE" SPADE CONNECTION THAT IS MERELY THE SAME WIRE LOOPED BACK INTO ITSELF.

IT IS CONNECTED TO THE (-) NEGATIVE GREEN WIRE ON THE COIL CONNECTOR. WHEN YOU HOOK UP YOUR DWELL/ TACH METER WHEN GETTING THE RPMs CORRECT DURING TIMING OR TWEAKING THE CARB WATCHING FOR MAXING OUT THE RPMs, NORMALLY YOU WOULD SHOVE A PAPERCLIP OR OTHER INTO THE COIL CAP TO CLIP ONTO FOR THE METER LEAD (THE OTHER LEAD GOES TO GROUND)

I ADDED THE "LOOP" WIRE TO MAKE THIS TASK EZier, WHEN I NEED TO CLIP ON TO THAT NEGATIVE COIL WIRE, I JUST TAKE MY "LOOP" CONNECTION APART AND CLIP ONTO THE SPADE. WHEN FINISHED, CONNECT IT BACK TO KEEP IT FROM TOUCHING ANYTHING.

PIC 3, ANOTHER USEFUL ITEM, THE ABILITY TO QUICKLY DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WITHOUT TOOLS. FOR SECURITY/ WHILE WORKING ON ELECTRICAL STUFF/ THE MAIN REASON-THE SOLENOID HAS HUNG UP AND THE STARTER IS RUNNING CONTINUOUSLY! (SAVES ON HEATING UP THE WIRES AND FRYING THE STARTER)

IF YOU FEEL YOUR CARB IS A PROBLEM, I MAY CAN HOOK YOU UP WITH A BRAND NEW VIRGIN CARB (NOT A WORN PARTS REBUILT ONE) CHEAPER THAN A RE-MANUFACTURED ONE. ABOUT A YEAR AGO, THEY WERE $99, MY BUDDY BOUGHT THREE! (I HAVE THE HOLLEY 4 BARREL NOW, OR I WOULDA GOT A FEW CARTER BBDs MYSELF)

HERE'S THE POST THAT MIGHT HELP YOU THE MOST WITH TUNING

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

IT'S ONE OF THE FIRST WROTE ON HERE, THE SITE HAD A MUCH DIFFERENT LAYOUT BACK THEN, I WAS JUST LEARNING HOW TO USE A COMPUTER, I DID NOT KNOW HOW TO COMPUTER MANIPULATE MY PICS. THE BIG GUYS ALSO SUGGESTED THAT I RE-THINK MY USER NAME OF BACK THEN TOO!

LEMME KNOW IF YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND SOMETHING

I'LL STAY WITH YOU FOREVER, JUST KEEP COMING BACK TO THIS THREAD, AS CLOSE AS YOU ARE, WE MIGHT COULD DO A LINKUP SOMETIME

HOW MANY OF MY OLD POSTS HAVE YOU LOOKED AT?

THE MEDIC

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Wednesday, July 8th, 2015 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
SORRY

PIC 2, LOOK AT THE COIL/ DISREGARD THE RED ARROW, THAT WAS FOR ANOTHER GUY

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, July 8th, 2015 AT 8:28 PM
Tiny
JOEF1985
  • MEMBER
Good Afternoon,

Sorry I have been busy for the last couple weeks but I spent two solid days working on the jeep. I believe the alternator maybe causing current pass through at the solenoid. I have unhooked the spade at the at the alternator and have remedied my problem of pass through whiie cranking. Can you send me a copy of your set up because it seem like that I have a GM alternator setup and the ones for sale online do not seem like this one.

I found that the distributor was 180 degrees out and fixed that which now locates 1 on the cap down towards the fender.

I have replaced the ignition coil because I felt like it was shorting out.

I replaced the spark plugs with Autolite Platinum because there were Autolite Platinum already in it that seemed like they were sparking near the shank. I have them gapped at 36-37 degrees.

I also timed the jeep at 6 degrees BTDC. I am assuming that given a diagram I have in the haynes book that looks close to what I have, I have included a picture of my block tick marks for timing, I have it set on the 7th- 8th tick mark above the magnetic timing hole. I believe this is 6 because per the picture in book the first long tick mark is 0.

After getting all this done and attempting to crank it with no such luck. I pulled several new spark plugs and noticed they were wet with fuel. I am getting fire to the end of the plug but it is not a blue fire. Do you know if there is any test to check how much fire I am getting to the end of the plug?
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Sunday, July 19th, 2015 AT 12:35 PM
Tiny
JOEF1985
  • MEMBER
Sorry here is the timing marks
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Sunday, July 19th, 2015 AT 12:36 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
OK BOSS GOT YOU COVERED

YOUR PICS MAY NEED TO BE RE-SIZED SMALLER SO THEY WILL POST

I HAVE YOU SOME PICS, GOTTA USE 2 ANSWER BLOCKS TO GET 'EM ALL

WASH OFF YOUR MARKS WITH BRAKE CLEANER/ PURPLE POWER/ OTHER

FILL IN THE "LINE" ON THE HARMONIC BALANCER WITH WHITE PAINT/ WHITE OUT/ OR JUST RUB CHALK OVER IT

1st PIC) ENGINE STOPPED, MARK IS AT "ZERO" (THIS IS EITHER AT TOP DEAD CENTER [TDC] OR 180 DEGREES FROM TDC).

THE FOLLOWING INFO IS JUST INFO!

YOU WILL ONLY NEED THE FOLLOWING INFO IF YOU TAKE THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT, WITHOUT MEASURING AND MARKING STUFF (IF YOU ARE LOST!)

ONLY PULLING #1 PLUG, INSTALLING IT BACK IN BY 2 THREADS, "MANUALLY" SLOWLY TURNING THE ENGINE CLOCKWISE FROM THE FRONT WITH A RATCHET OR BREAKER BAR UNTIL YOU HEAR AIR "HISS" BY THE THREADS (BUILDING COMPRESSION).

WHEN YOU HEAR THE HISS, SLOWLY CONTINUE TURNING CW UNTIL IT LOOKS JUST LIKE 1ST PIC, YOU ARE NOW AT "TDC"

IF YOU ARE INSTALLING A DISTRIBUTOR, WHEN IT'S FINALLY INSTALLED, THE ROTOR BUTTON SHOULD BE POINTING AT THE # 1 WIRES POSITION ON THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP

THE HARMONIC BALANCER IS 2 PIECES OF METAL AND A RUBBER MIDDLE. IF THE RUBBER GETS OLD AND ALLOWS THE 2 PARTS TO TWIST OR MOVE, THE TIMING MARK IS NO LONGER ACCURATE ON THE OUTER RING. (TIMING WILL SUFFER)

SNATCHING IT OFF AND LAYING IT ON TOP OF A NEW OR REMAN WILL VERIFY IF IT'S STILL RIGHT OR NOT. LINE UP THE INNER KEY WAYS, THEN COMPARE THE OUTER TIMING MARK POSITION OF YOUR

PIC 2) MORE "JUST INFO" - HARMONIC BALANCER - POSSIBLE SCENARIO - I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING! - TIMING - CARB TUNING - MY JEEP WON'T RUN RIGHT! THE RUBBER HAVING SLIPPED MAY HAVE YOU "TIMING IT WRONG" BUT LOOKS RIGHT. IT'S NOT REAL COMMON, BUT IT DOES HAPPEN!

PIC 3) IF YOU EVER HAVE TO PULL A HARMONIC BALANCER, A 3 JAW PULLER AROUND THE OUTSIDE WILL SEPARATE THE BALANCER (NOT GOOD!) GOTTA USE A PULLER LIKE/ SIMILAR TO THIS ONE IN THE PIC. YOU WILL BE ONLY PULLING ON THE CENTER PART

PIC 4) WHEN YOUR ENGINE IS RUNNING, THIS IS WHAT YOU SHOULD SEE IF TIMING AT 8 DEGREES AT EACH FLASH OF THE STROBE. I HAVE PUT A BLACK MARK ON THE SCALE TO FIND IT EZier. REMEMBER TO TAKE THE VACUUM ADVANCE RUBBER LINE OFF AND STICK A BOLT IN THE THE RUBBER LINE TO SEAL OFF THE VACUUM LEAK BEFORE YOU START. HOOK IT BACK ON WHEN FINISHED! IDLE SHOULD BE ADJUSTED TO 700 CONSTANTLY THRU THE PROCESS, UNTIL YOU ARE DONE

REMAINING PICS ARE OF THE TIMING MARKS ON A REMOVED TIMING COVER

JUST BORED, TRYING TO WRITE INFO THAT MAY HELP LATER OR I CAN LINK ANOTHER JEEP TO IT LATER!

I HOPE YOU DID SEE THE "STALLS WHEN HOT" LINK ON THE 1ST PAGE

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, July 19th, 2015 AT 8:01 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
THE REST

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, July 19th, 2015 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
JOEF1985
  • MEMBER
Hey thanks for replying. Would it be possible for you to send pics of your alternator and possibly a part number that you are using? Also, you wouldn't happen to have any pictures of your distributor? With cap on/off? If you do it may be helpful. If not, no worries. I really appreciate all your help, if and when we get this thing running we quite possibly get to check it out for yourself!
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Sunday, July 19th, 2015 AT 8:41 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
HERE WE GO

I HAVE MY DISTRIBUTOR DROPPED IN "TEXTBOOK" (AS YOU WOULD SEE IT IN A REPAIR MANUAL DIAGRAM

(MAYBE YOURS IS THE SAME WAY)? (MAYBE NOT)

UNLESS YOU GO THRU THE FINDING TDC STEPS YOU CANNOT JUST SWAP THE WIRES AROUND! ('CAUSE IT WILL WORK IN 6 DIFFERENT CONFIGURATIONS)

IF YOU NEED TO DROP IT BACK IN, OR PUT IT IN TEXTBOOK. I'LL TALK YOU THRU THAT IN KINDERGARTEN TERMS! LET ME KNOW.

I HAVE AN ALTERNATOR FROM AUTOZONE WITH A LIFETIME WARRANTY FROM 1989

THE STOCK ONE WAS 30 AMPS? I THINK!

THE 1st TIME IT KICKED THE BUCKET, I PAID THE DIFFERENCE AND GOT ONE WITH MORE AMPS, I THINK IT WAS OVER 100 AMPS, MAYBE 105? THE CASE IS THE SAME SO IT FIT RIGHT IN THERE!

I HAVE A BACK-UP HEATER/ RESERVE THAT I MADE ("THE SAHARA BREEZE"!) HEATER CORE AND A SQUIRREL CAGE BLOWER. ALONG WITH THAT, I HAVE A NICE COMPRESSOR TO RUN MY HORNS AND QUICK CONNECT AIR HOSE. THE BETTER ALTERNATOR SEEMS TO HANDLE THE DEMAND THAT I PUT IT THRU.

HAVE YOU LOOKED AT OTHER JEEP POSTS THAT I HAVE ANSWERED? JUST WONDERING.

ANYTHING IN THE PIC YOU NEED INFO ON, JUST ASK!

LAST PIC (MADE FOR ANOTHER FELLER)- THE "MARK" ON THE BODY WAS PUT THERE TO DROP IT IN TEXTBOOK (ROTOR POINTS TO THE MARK) THE ENGINE MUST BE AT TDC (TOP DEAD CENTER) TO DO THIS

THE MEDIC
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Monday, July 20th, 2015 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
JOEF1985
  • MEMBER
Good Afternoon,

I am happy to report after sometime. The jeep breathed to life today at about 1:15 pm.

It does drive and seems to be doing fine. I have noticed a few things that need attention like, possible oil leak around the oil pan or rear main seal. Also noticed a slight leak around pipe that goes from the fuel pump to carb which I plan to replace with fuel line. I guess things you would expect to see after sitting for sometime and being 36 years old.

I will advise as things occur.

Thank you
Joe
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Saturday, August 8th, 2015 AT 1:01 PM
Tiny
JOEF1985
  • MEMBER
To answer your questions in your last message. I have read some of your threads. Seeing you have responded over 8,000 times, I did not read all.

On the alternator we have, someone has cut the plug to the 1 and 2. Can you please advise me which the red jumper cable plugs into and which the black goes into. They cut the plug and snipped it at the hot cable to the alternator. Then they added a dedicated wire in it place for the jumper at the hot post on alternator and placed spade connectors on the ground and jumper wire.

I have scoured over your diagram but it doesnt give that info.

Thank you
Joe
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Saturday, August 8th, 2015 AT 1:12 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
OK SO I'VE ANSWERED OVER 8000 TIMES! ALL OF 'EM NOT BEING TO THE CJs (I WISH)

THIS MIGHT HELP YOU FIND SOME OF THE STUFF YOU MIGHT WANNA CHECK OUT

PUT THIS IN THE ADDRESS BAR "2CARPROS" "CJ MEDEVAC" AND WHEN IT COMES UP, CLICK ON "IMAGES" - THE PICS CAN TAKE YOU TO THE PAGE IT CAME FROM

IF THIS LINK WILL WORK, I'VE GOT YOU THERE ALREADY!

http://www.google.com/search?q=2CARPROS+CJ+MEDEVAC&rlz=1C1CHKZ_enUS436US436&espv=2&biw=1360&bih=677&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAmoVChMI2J-Cz-uaxwIVgdWACh21qA-R

ALL OF THESE PICS ARE NOT MINE, THEY MAY BE FROM THE QUESTION ASKER, OR THERE'S THOSE THAT YOU HAVE NO CLUE HOW THEY GOT THERE!

BACK TO YOUR LAST RESPONSE

I CROPPED THE 1st DIAGRAM

NOTICE "SPICE G"

FUSIBLE LINK STARTS AT SOLENOID (TRIANGLE LOOKIN' THINGEE IS ACTUALLY TWO [2] STAKE-ON RINGS), ENDS AT SPLICE G, A REGULAR 10 GAUGE WIRE CONTINUES ON TO ENERGIZE THE ALTERNAOR
J
J
J
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FROM THAT "TRIANGLE THINGEE" (RINGS) GOING THE OTHER DIRECTION IS ANOTHER FUSIBLE LINK ENDING AT "SPLICE K", THIS LINE CONTINUES TO THE INSIDE OF THE JEEP AND POWERS "EVERYTHING ELSE"!

SO, BASICALLY THE WHOLE JEEP GETS POWER FROM ALTERNATOR OR STRAIGHT FROM THE SOLENOID (BATTERY). WHEN THE JEEP IS RUNNING THE ALTERNATOR IS PROVIDING ALL OF THE POWER 13.8 VOLTS OR SO ( INSIDE IT CONNECTS TO THE WIRES THAT I DESCRIBED IN MY 2nd PARAGRAPH) AND IT "OVERRIDES" THE BATTERY 12.5 VOLTS - THIS ALSO RECHARGES MR. BATTERY!

THESE FUSIBLE LINKS ARE THE LAST LINE OF DEFENSE FOR A MAJOR SHORT SOMEWHERE, LIKE THE HEADLIGHTS SYSTEM (THERE IS NO FUSE IN THE FUSE BOX FOR THEM

YOU CAN BUY THEM, THEY ARE RATED IN AMPS, JUST LIKE A FUSE- THE DIFFERENCE IS, THEY ARE JUST A INSULATED WIRE A FEW INCHES LONG (MUST REMAIN THAT LONG) WHICH MELTS WHEN OVERLOADED.

NORMALLY, WHEN ONE "FRIES", YOU WILL SEE IT BURNT SLAP INTO/ SEE BUBBLY INSULATION ON IT, OR IF YOU GIVE IT A TUG OR PULL, IT THE INSULATION WILL STRETCH OUT LIKE A RUBBER BAND UNTIL IT BREAKS (THE LINK INSIDE HAS VAPORIZED)

I WIRED UP "WILLY" FROM SCRATCH. NOT TO 1946 STANDARDS, BUT "MOSTLY" TO SORTA BEING GUIDED BY THE 1979 WIRE DIAGRAM

SENDING 3 PICS

1) PARTIAL PART OF MY WIRE DIAGRAM SHOWING ALTERNATOR

2) SENT THIS BEFORE. THE BLACK RUBBER IS NOTHING MORE THAN THE 2 RED WIRES JOINING THE "ONE RING" ON THE BACK OF THE ALTERNATOR / MY "PURPLE LOOKING WIRE" IS THE BROWN WIRE ON THE 1979 DIAGRAM (MY JEEP IS A '77 WITH A FEW MINOR DIFFERENCES)

THE PLUG ON THE SIDE OF THE ALTERNATOR IS THE 2 WIRES GOING IN, THE WIRES GO RESPECTIVELY TO THE SPADES INSIDE (JUST AS THE LOOK). JUST FOR INFO, THAT PLUG PLUGS INTO THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR

3) REMEMBER, ON BOTH OF MY JEEPS I SWAPPED THE STUFF FROM THE RIGHT SIDE POST TO THE LEFT POST AND THE STUFF ON THE LEFT POST TO THE RIGHT

EVERYTHING WORKS THE SAME!

MY REASON?

WITH THE "POWER POST" BEING ON THE LEFT SIDE NOW, IF I NEED TO

I CAN EZily TOUCH "POWER" TO "S TERMINAL" (ON THE PIC, "A & C") WITH A SCREWDRIVER TO "BUMP THE STARTER" OR EVEN CRANK IT UP, IF THE KEY IS ON

THIS IS HOW OLDER FORDS WERE WIRED UP, AND I LIKE IT! (JEEPS USED FORD KINDA STARTING SYSTEMS)

(I'VE SEEN DUMMIES ATTEMPT THE SCREWDRIVER THING, AND OF COURSE, IT JUST WON'T FLY HOOKED UP THE ORIGINAL WAY

BACK TO FUSIBLE LINKS

THIS 3rd PIC IS FROM "WILLY", I HAD TO RUN EVERY WIRE MYSELF!

NOTICE WIRES "3 & 4", THEY ARE FUSIBLE LINKS (THESE MAY SAVE YOUR WIRING HARNESS' FROM CATCHING ON FIRE!)

I "THINK" THE MARKED ONE (W/ TAG) GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR (TOO LAZY TO GO OUT RIGHT NOW AND LOOK!)

THE OTHER UNMARKED ONE GOES TO THE FUSE BOX

BOTH ARE ONLY A FEW INCHES LONG AND "SPLICE" INTO A 10 GAUGE WIRE WHICH TRAVEL TO THEIR DESTINATIONS

4) "MR. JEEPs" SOLENOID, ALSO W/ POWER STUFF ON THE LEFT SIDE

DOES THIS HELP?

IF NOT, KEEP ASKING- I'D RATHER MESS WIT A CJ THAN ANY OTHER VEHICLE!

STILL LOOKING FORWARD TO YOU SHOWING UP HERE (WHEN HE'S ROAD WORTHY)

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, August 8th, 2015 AT 6:32 PM
Tiny
JOEF1985
  • MEMBER
Good Afternoon,

Which way is the alternator suppose to plug in. I included a picture of the alternator. Does the jumper go on F2 or R1. Does the brown wire go on the other. I have hooked it up both ways and it works but seems to be overcharging by the gauge, especially when revved it is close to 16. I have not checked it with my meter I just unhooked it and quit messing to ensure to not cause damage. If you see in my picture you will see that the previous owner removed the plug as I said. Can I replace it with a gm alternator plug or would you continue using the spade connectors like it has

Thank you
Joe
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Sunday, August 9th, 2015 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
I RECOMMEND USING THE GM STYLE PIGTAIL

IT HAS A LOCKING TAB

IF DISCONNECTED, IT WILL ONLY PLUG BACK IN "ONE WAY" (SAVES HEARTACHE IN THE FUTURE)

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-by-bwd-voltage-regulator-connector-pt68/20974400-P?vehicleIdFromReq=3980&isAllVehicle=false&vehicleIdSearch=3980&searchTerm=pt68&showTitle=

LOOKS TO BE "HIGH DOLLAR" TOO!

GAUGE MAY BE OFF

TEST BATTERY W/ VOLTMETER WITH ENGINE OFF (12.5 VOLTS OR SO)

LEAVE VOLTMETER HOOKED TO BATTERY POSTS, FIRE HIM UP, WHAT'S THE VOLTAGE NOW?

IS THIS BETTER? I SORTA DOCTORED UP YOUR PIC

DID JA LOOK UP 2CARPROS CJ MEDEVAC "IMAGES"? SEEMS MY LINK DON'T WORK TO GET YOU THERE

Y'ALLS-IS TURN!

THE MEDIC

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Sunday, August 9th, 2015 AT 6:30 PM

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