1. The car had a significant loss in power, mainly uphill, car would not exceed twenty to thirty mph.
2. When parked: The car would seem to idle almost as it would have before I started having problems with it. But I noticed that when parked, it still ran a bit rough, but it would not sputter out/engine would not shut off. While in park I noticed that the car only ran smoothly between 1,000 rpm, to around 2,700 rpm.
3. Driving: From a stop, the car would run rough to about ten plus mph (car would shake, idle really rough) but after about ten mph, car would run smoothly, but only to about 2,700 rpm. With this being said, I could only give the car enough gas to get it to shift to next gear while driving, which was right at around 2,700 rpm. I found that anything over around 2,700 rpm, even while parked, the car would sputter until you eased up on the gas pedal. Going down the road, it would lose all power until you eased up on the gas. At idle, did the same thing, but acted like the engine would shut off up until you let off the gas. On top of this, if I tried to start the car for the first time in the day, it would fire up after two or three tries, still ran the same. But if you turned the car off, I would have to wait at least an hour, and a lot of times still longer than that, and it the engine would crank just fine, but it would have a lot of trouble actually starting unless you have it a day or so, and only start if you pumped the gas a little. Then, about a week after the car started going through these troubles, it finally gave up on me and would no longer start. Still sitting in the driveway.
Upon hours of online searching and buying test lights and ohm meters, we have checked for spark. No spark.
We started with replacing camshaft sensor. Original camshaft sensor had pretty pbvious wear and small amount of oil covering the end of the sensor, and the plastic housing on the sensor had cracks, and seemed to be chewed up. Obviously not good.
Crankshaft sensor obviously needed replacing, but skew sensor did not help.
Still cranks fine, but still no spark.
Changed plugs/wires, same result.
Changed coil packs, ran test light all the way to the coil packs, had power to coils, no power coming out. Still no spark. I really need help here. Been online for hours with answers pointing towards most of what I have replaced. Only other solutions included:
1. MAF sensor.
2. Fuel pump issues (relay/pump) will need advice on how to diagnose this.
3. Temperature change. Normally would not pay that much mind, but it relates due to the fact that when the car did start, you would have to let engine cool for a long time, and pretty much completely to get it to start again, but would not start unless you pumped the gas pedal a little bit. So what I am coming back to is fuel. But fuel pump still kicks on when key is turned on. Would this happen if problems with the fuel pump occurred?
have the same problem?
Wednesday, April 18th, 2018 AT 7:56 PM