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Slow acceleration, trouble on inclines

Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,000 MILES
Theirs much to explain so I'll just start at the beginning. So my car started to accelerate very slowly almost as if a fuel filter or something was clogged and making a loud exhaust sound as if the exhaust had a hole or something. Come to find out my catalytic converter bank two was clogged. So I ended up just cleaning it out myself to save money. It was 100% full/clogged with whatever the dark silver stuff is. Anyways, that seemed to help some but still slow accelerate and also when I use the A/C while driving it takes a lot of power almost to where I can't accelerate and will shut off if idling. Also going up hills is almost impossible. And if there is extra weight in car, it barley makes it up the smallest incline. I ran ob2 meter and said I had some misfires so I replaced all the spark plugs, did a fuel filter change and inspected the fuel pump which is good (there is no fuel filter, I think it's part of the fuel pump because I can't find one and the fuel pump has a mesh type thing on bottom of it). I also checked the exhaust manifold/catalytic converter bank 1 and it's clear. I'm about to replace the spark plug engine coils and spark plugs again since I didn't replace the coils the 1st time. I also used a long screwdriver to put on the fuel injectors to listen for the clicking sound it makes to ensure they are working and they are. So what could be my issue?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 7:07 PM

43 Replies

Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello, I'm Danny.

The first thing I would suggest you do is to actually perform a fuel pressure test.Just because you hear the pump running doesn't mean it's performing at its peak.You might have a weak or failing pump not working at its optimum.If you don't have a fuel pressure tester most auto parts stores have a tool loaner program and can rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing what is involved on how to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The fuel pressure for your Accent should be at 49.8 PSI. Hope this helps and let me know what you find after performing this test and we'll go from there.Thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
So I got the fuel tester but there are two ports one labeled L and other H on the left side of engine. Is there another port or which one of those do I use?
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Saturday, July 25th, 2020 AT 8:28 PM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
I thought I'd send you all the codes the ob2 is giving me. It not a fancy one, but hope it helps.
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Saturday, July 25th, 2020 AT 9:29 PM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
I did a little research. Is this how I need to check the fuel pressure for my Hyundai as shown in the pictures by using an adapter for the fuel tester I rented?

Let me know if I got this right please: Basically remove backseat to get to the fuel pump to remove the fuel feed line on it and connect it to the adapter for the fuel pressure gauge tester, and the other part of the adapter to the fuel pump itself?
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Saturday, July 25th, 2020 AT 9:49 PM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
Here is a picture of the fuel kit I got from O'Reilly's for a $150.00 refunded deposit:
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Saturday, July 25th, 2020 AT 9:58 PM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
No clue which tube to disconnect and connect to the pressure tester. Please help.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 7:46 AM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
I noticed my fuel rail for the injectors has a bolt type thingy on one end, the left side. I marked it with an arrow. Is that where I hook up the fuel pressure tester? Let me know please soon today.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
  • 2007 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,000 MILES
I am trying to test the fuel pressure as suggested in a previous question I asked. But I haven't got a response and need to know ASAP please. But where do I hook up a fuel pressure tester on my car? I cant locate a valve to attache it to. I have attached a few pictures. Do I hook it up on the left side of the fuel rail that the injectors connect to, I put a red arrow to point it out. Or do I attach it to the fuel pump and the fuel pressure line and if so which fuel line in the picture do I connect it to because theirs two lines going out from the pump.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,940 POSTS
The fuel tester will go inline with the fuel rail connector, can you try to find that? Also to me it sounds like the exhaust is still plugged, what happens is the catalytic converter material clogs up the muffler. Remove the head pipe and drive it to see if is helps and clear the codes. these guides should help us:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

and

https://youtu.be/ahK_eucFi-k

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 4:58 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello again.

You should have a Schrader valve located on the fuel rail. It will look like a valve on a bicycle tire tube. If you depress the needle a small amount of gas will come out. That is what the fuel pressure tester will hook to. No need to disconnect the fuel lines just yet. I've attached a picture below of the fuel rail connection below. The tutorial I posted on how to test is still located above in my prior post. The fuel pressure specification for your Accent is 49.8 PSI. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 5:17 PM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
There is no Schrader valve.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 6:22 PM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
Actually never mind. I believe I found out how to hook up the fuel pressure tester. On the right side of the fuel rail (In the picture I marked it with a arrow) I would hook up the attachment shown in picture. But I'll try what Ken said first.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello again.

Okay, that looks like the correct adapt to hook up the tester. Keep us updated after you perform the fuel pressure and catalytic converter test. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 10:45 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

I would also get a back pressure gauge for the exhaust to test the back pressure. If you catalytic converter was blocked, there still may be more in the catalytic converter or further down the line in the exhaust.

You can get the tool at a parts store. You place it in the upstream O2 sensor hole and run the engine at 1,200 RPM's. The back pressure should not exceed more than 1.5 pounds.

Another way of testing would be to drop the front exhaust pipe and drive the car with the pipe disconnected and see if the engine has power again.

Let me know the results.

Roy
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 2:49 AM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
Is that the upstream o2 oxygen sensor I marked in the picture with an arrow that I connect the pressure tester to?

Also, I did take off the exhaust manifold entirely to make sure it wasn't clogged because the catalytic converter was stuffed, I couldn't believe how 100% full/clogged it was. Another note m, when I changed the spark plugs the 4th one was pretty dirty with sludge.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 3:55 AM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello again.

Having the catalytic converter plugged like that would definitely cause a sluggishness or hesitation issue. Glad you were able to find the issue. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
In the last message regarding the catalytic converter n manifold. That is something I did awhile ago. When the problem 1st happened. Still having issues and that's what brought me to you guys. Doing the fuel pressure test and the back pressure test today. Let you know the results.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 5:43 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello again.

Okay, keep us updated. I'm curious to know the results of the tests and we'll go from there. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 5:57 PM
Tiny
DERRICKT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
I finally got the fuel pressure test. I ended up having to buy 2 feet of rubber fuel pressure hose because that adapter I need isn't at any auto store or kit unfortunately. $84.99 to order online from a specialty store.

Results: I turn the key over a few times to build pressure but not starting it. It does go to 50psi and slowly decrease. However, when I start it it'll build pressure to 50psi and stay their. Eveb when I press on the gas while parked/idling the psi stays constantly at 50psi. Even when I shift into every other gear it stays at 50psi and doesn't move at all. And shouldn't it drop 5psi once I shift into reverse and press on the accelerator? Oh and when I turn car off and remove key the psi slowly decreases.

Furthermore, I attached pictures marked with 2 red arrows of a possible fuel leak. The fuel pressure line( Not sure what that piece is but I know it the fuel line) you see is wet and it runs directly into the right end of the fuel injector rail and above it you can see more signs of a wet surface also marked with red arrow.

Lastly, I have one off subject question. I noticed a wire of some type I marked with a red arrow in the 3rd last picture( Seems hollow honestly) bent pretty bad and was wondering if that would cause any issues or future issues? Not sure what it even does.

Thanks guys for all your help so far. Much appreciated!

Oh and I rented a compression tester you put into the holding of the spark plug. A friend suggested testing it so I just went ahead and grab the loaner from o Reilly's. So I'll let you know results of that. If could supply any instructions on how to do the test etc for my car that would be awesome!
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, 49 is the spec. You are good.

It will not drop running. That is okay.

It should or may drop about 5 pounds after it is turned off.

You are good with the pressure.

We are back to the exhaust. Did you drop the head pipe and run the engine?

Also, the compression test will tell you if you have a valve timing issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Roy
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM

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