Cylinder four misfire

Tiny
ELLAM3121
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  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • TURBO
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 196,500 MILES
Already changed the spark plugs, the coil pack, the plug wires, and I have checked the resistance on all the injectors, and I still don't not the issue. I can't find the problem. I'm still running a cylinder four misfire and I'm not sure what else to do. Can someone please help me?
Wednesday, November 17th, 2021 AT 5:47 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

If the coil is new, you checked the fuel supply, and there is nothing obviously wrong, the next thing I would suspect is compression.

If that is the original mileage on the engine, low compression can produce a misfire. Since this is the only cylinder with a problem, I don't suspect it is related to fuel pressure or an engine vacuum leak.

Here is a link that shows in general how to test compression:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

When checking compression, the lowest pressure can't be more than 25% lower than the highest. Otherwise, you can get a miss.

When the engine is running, can you feel the misfire? Also, does the engine light flash? Are there any other codes stored?

Let me know.

Joe

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Wednesday, November 17th, 2021 AT 9:01 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe, thanks for replying. I am going to test the compression tomorrow. What would be my diagnosis if I do have bad compression. I do feel the misfire when I'm driving but once I hit a steady 40-50 it goes away. Well, I have been hitting the same cylinder 4 misfire that last six times I test it but today it also now has a cylinder. 1 misfire as well as the 4. What if I don't have bad compression and what if I do?
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Wednesday, November 17th, 2021 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
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And my engine light is on but it's not flashing and there are no other codes, just the 2 misfires.
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Wednesday, November 17th, 2021 AT 9:10 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

The idea that the check engine wasn't flashing leads me to believe it isn't an electrical issue. If the compression is low, then we have two things to check. We need to determine if the leak is caused by worn rings or a leaky intake/exhaust valve.

To determine this, you will perform what is called a wet compression test. First, write down the original compression test results. Then perform the wet test and compare the reading to the original one. If there is a substantial increase in compression, the problem is likely worn piston compression rings. If there is little to no change, then it's likely related to a valve issue or head gasket.

Let me know the results and if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe
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Wednesday, November 17th, 2021 AT 9:20 PM
Tiny
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Thanks so much. I will update you tomorrow once I do the tests.
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Wednesday, November 17th, 2021 AT 9:33 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

You are very welcome. I look forward to hearing from you.

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, November 18th, 2021 AT 6:22 PM
Tiny
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Well, I did not do the compression check but I took the upper Manifold off to change the gasket and first off it was really dirty and corroded bit also it had the little blue ring isolated gaskets inside the holes, but it did not have the large full gasket that separated plastic from metal. Does that matter? Do the blue rings serve as a gasket or does it still need the large gasket as well?
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Thursday, November 18th, 2021 AT 6:35 PM
Tiny
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A guy up at AutoZone said I did not have a blown head gasket as I would see it if I did.
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Thursday, November 18th, 2021 AT 6:41 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

Yes, the intake gasket is comprised of rubber o-rings only. See pic below.

As far as the guy at AZ, a blown head gasket is not visible unless it is leaking outward. I've seen oil or coolant leaks, but most are not seen because they are leaking in a different direction, not out of the head.

Let me know your thoughts or if there is anything I can do to help.

Joe

See pic below.
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Thursday, November 18th, 2021 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe, thanks for responding, so I bought a fitting long gasket for it today and installed it. I did not take the o rings off though. Would that cause a problem or would it be okay? About the head gasket, I was told it would cause overheating and some hissing under the hood also if it was bad and I have neither. Is this true? I am mysteriously losing coolant but was told it could be because the gasket missing from the Manifold letting air in or escape. I have no idea what I'm doing, just trying to get rid of the misfire. I am going to drive it around a bit in the morning and see if I can still feel the misfire or now. But if I do, I really don't know what else to try. Could any of the sensors cause misfiring?
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Thursday, November 18th, 2021 AT 7:03 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

Yes, there are many sensors that could cause it. However, most times that would set a code. Now, if coolant is being lost, it has to be going somewhere. So, pay attention to see if there is excessive white steam/smoke coming from the exhaust. Also, check the engine oil to make sure coolant isn't mixing into it.

Take a look through this link. It is specific to a head gasket issue and explains both things I mentioned.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

As far as the gasket being bad, in 40 years, I never heard one hissing. Yes, it can cause the engine to overheat, but that is usually the result of coolant getting low from being burned or compressed air getting into the cooling system. Both are the result of a bad head gasket. As far as compressed air getting into it, you will see bubbling in the coolant.

Have you checked to make sure there are no obvious leaks?

Joe
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Thursday, November 18th, 2021 AT 8:37 PM
Tiny
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Yes, I have no leaks coming from anywhere down at the bottom where my oil pan is, it's leaking from there, but I was told that has nothing to do with the misfires that's a totally different problem. I just have to do an oil change other than that nothing is. I have no leads to have no nothing like physically that I can see now. I know the coolant has to be going somewhere but there's no visual sight of where it's going, and I have no white smoke nothing coming out of my exhaust. I don't even have regular smoke coming out of my exhaust. So, I'm not sure I'm really leaning against the bad head gasket I really don't think it's the bad head gasket because like I mentioned earlier when I'm going between 40 to 60 and I'm running at good speed it runs perfectly it does not run rough it does not idle rough. I just change the upper manifold gasket a few hours ago like I mentioned, and I actually had to wind up going out on a drive anyways tonight and I still feel the misfire when I start my engine light, or anything is not back on yet but usually it takes my car a few days to read enough misfires to channel it. So, I'm not sure where to go next. I understand your way more professional than me on this subject, but I really don't want to have to change a head gasket if that's not my issue that's why I'm looking at other options and I don't have any of the symptoms that come with a blown head gasket at all. So, I'm still not sure where to go that's why I was wondering about the sensors I haven't changed any sensors yet.
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Thursday, November 18th, 2021 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
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If the check engine light does come back on, we need to do a compression test. Keep in mind, when you are driving at 40 to 60 mph, the RPMs are higher and there is less of a load on the engine. Oftentimes, that masks the problem.

Also, it doesn't have to be a bad head gasket to cause lower compression. It could be worn rings or even a burnt valve.

Let me know if it comes back on and the codes.

Take care,

Joe
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Friday, November 19th, 2021 AT 8:22 PM

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