Intermittent start and stall when put in reverse

Thank you for getting back to me, The battery is only two months old and passed the load test. I also put a multi meter on it and it, been a few weeks but I think it stayed in the 13.5 to 14 volt range, but I will be your hand and feet if you want me to retest. Also I pulled the battery out and checked all connected including the chassis ground from the battery.

It started by not starting quickly, but after a while would began to not start at all. You leave it sit for a while and try again and it cranks and then starts. I cant really put my finger on a certain pattern, but it seems like it starts more often cold, then you run it for a while and turn it off and try to turn it back on and then will not start. Let it sit and then it will start eventually. We are not driving it because it is unreliable. I will clear codes and get back with you. Update: cleared all codes and then would not start. I tried for about five minutes and nothing. So I will let it sit for a few hours and try again. Here is another random fact that might be worth mentioning. The secondary cooling fan runs constantly when the car is running, I have looked for the darn fan control rely module and it is not where everyone seems to say it is. Anyway if I unplug the fan it does not fix the problem it continues same symptoms. I will write again when it starts and I can read the codes again

All right Kenny, it would not start this morning, battery was sluggish I think because of multiple attempts to start today and yesterday. So jumped it and it started after cranking for 5-8 seconds. I took it out on a 40 minute drive through the country and a little highway, no check engine lights at all. Not even a flicker. Came home checked battery while running 13.5 volts. Turned engine off 12.90 volts. Tried to start cranked for a 10 seconds then started, turned the engine off let it sit for a few minutes maybe 4-5 and tried to start again would not start. Check engine light came on as well as the triangle circled with an explanation point (picture attached). Okay, just pulled the codes and they are attached. Wow, lots of codes. This where I scratch my head and say hmmm?

Okay, yes that makes total sense. Because the last repair done by a mechanic was replacing an ignition coil. Maybe there is something in the coil they replaced of moved a wire that is now faulting out. So I will let you know what I find.

I'm sorry I thought this message was already sent. Should I pull wires out of the harness to inspect or leave them in the harness and look for a place were they have shorted out against each other or on metal? Or just disconnect harness inspect that way? Yeah, the harness starts on top then disappears between engine and fire wall and goes down. It must come back up because the computer sits top right of engine compartment. I will be working on it this afternoon.

Hi Kenny, I have included these pictures of the harness and dang it! It actually seems to be in good shape. I thoroughly inspected the harness and followed back to the computer. There were several places that were potential pinch point and or rub points, but upon closer inspection they there were not frayed wiring or damaged sheathing. Dang it! There was one place where the harness was attached to a bracket and couldn't see to well but I was able to take off my gloves off and slip my finger between the bracket and harness and the once again the sheathing was undamaged. So I wouldn't bet my life on it with out taking the harness out and taking the wires out of the harness but at this point I did not see any damaged wiring. So what should I do now?

Okay, yes I understand. So I rewire one of the injectors back to the computer and yes if the code comes back. If the code does not come back after rewiring then I prove that the shirt is in the wiring harness. In which case I would probably remove the harness and open it up to discover wire the the wires are shorting to each other or to ground? Correct?

With the included pictures you probably has figured that I am Elizabeth. I am David, Beth’s husband, she set up the account on an issue a while back and you helped us. So we just use her account.

Attached pictures and questions. I see on the diagram color coding. Can you tell me or point out on the diagram which cylinder is number one and which is four. Is it front to back or back to front? Also there are a series of connectors that are close to the computer box. Did the injector wires run to these connectors and then to the box or to the end of the actor wires run directly to the computer? I’ve been clued it included a picture of the connectors in the computer module box I am assuming that all the wires from the harness run to these connectors and then connect to the computer module? Also, I see the injectors, where is the turbo chargers or charger?

Sorry for the spelling errors.

Questions I will just cut to the main thing here. I have many questions I’m curious about having studied the diagrams you have sent but at this point I just want to get Beth’s car back on the road. So the black and blue goes to the ECM. Where does the other wire go? And do I need to replace wire back to the fuse panel or just to the ECM box?

Hi Kenny, I know its been awhile but here is an update: From our last conversation I was going to test cylinder one by routing two new wires back to the computer to test out our theory, however the wires were covered in tape by the computer, the wire was faded by the injector and I could not find the correct pin by looking at the diagram. So I decided to get radical and pull the wiring harness off. I did not find the expected short to ground quite the opposite the wiring harness in the engine compartment seemed to be in excellent shape. After having the harness off I traced all the wires from the all 4 ignition coils and injectors back to the computer. I checked all rub points and opened up the harness in different positions that looked suspicious only to find wires in perfect condition. The wires move freely in the harness and no visible damage to the wires. I could see 90% of the harness by manipulating the covering. Also I used my multi meter to test all wires from injector and ignition coils to computer. All wires check with 0 resistance. I also followed the wires from the computer which is in the engine compartment back to the fuse box. Now I did not remove any of the dash but was able to see a good portion from the fuse box under the dash and then trough the fire wall. Not sure percentage wise what I could see but things looked in god shape from what I could see. There is one place were it looks like a plastic side panel is kind of awkwardly sitting against the wires coming from the computer I will pull that panel today and look for shorts. If that looks good then what should I check next? What should I do next?

Oh yeah, forgot this part. So got the harness back on and looking pretty, geez that was a job. Started right up, drove it for 30 minutes no problems. Pull into the garage shut it it off immediately try to restarts and wouldn't start. To be clear it will turn over just will not start. Just went to garage just now and started. Although it seems to take more turns of the engine to start then it use to, but it did start and was running well.