Won't Start

Tiny
SRJIGGY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 FORD FOCUS
  • 4 CYL
  • MANUAL
My car wont start, I just replaced the battery. The engine cranks and stuff, it just wont start. I noticed that the power steering fluid and engine coolant was low but I don't think that'd effect it.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,244 POSTS
The fluids aren't causing the problem. What you need to do is check to see if it is getting spark and fuel to the engine. Also, check timing. The belt may have jumped.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
POETICJUSTICE29
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 FORD FOCUS
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,789 MILES
I put in a brand new alternator the car drove for about thirty minutes then cut off. I keep jumping the battery and its not staying charged. Can you possibly give me insight of what is going on?
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
Checked them there fuses?

Did you accidentally cross your jumper cables or short something (even for a split second)?

Could be a "fusible link" there may be several in the system (they are basically a wire, that is a fuse in the wiring).

If you need help locating them, send your VIN # to me, this will hopefully make it easy for me to find the correct wiring diagram in "Prodemand" (they show locations)

Always replace a fusible link with another fusible link of the same amps.

Nothing like watching your vehicle burn to the ground cause you cheated.

Just to get you acquainted with the situation, I have demonstrated "MY" fusible links in my Jeeps in this link below (bottom end of the link).

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1969-ford-bronco-turn-key-and-nothing-happens

Your turn.

The Medic
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FORDFOCUS2000
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD FOCUS
  • 95,801 MILES
Hello so I am very heart broken at the moment because my very first car my 2000 Ford focus is practically dying, every ounce of hard work and savings I put into this car, and the way that it's acting up I'd making me very sad. The problem with the car is, is that it's having a very hard starting when I leave the car alone for a couple of hours, but mostly it's having trouble starting when I don't drive it for a couple of days, but recently its been a couple of hours. Now when it had trouble starting it just makes a very loud click and that's all, until after a couple of times I turn the ignition key it will start. But alas even a greater problem has arise, after I get it started after having problems starting it, it turns off, the whole entire car just shuts off. It has happened a couple of times but it mainly shuts off like that when I just start to get the car going after I have issues starting it. There was an instance where it happened a couple times in a row and it restarted my radio back to factory settings. Now when it shuts down I have my key in full ignition and when it shuts down after a while my radio and lights will turn back on but not the engine, so I take out the key and restart the car. This morning that situation happened where I started the car normally with no problems but it did shut down. I called my boyfriend and he suggested that I let the car warm up first, so I turned it on again with no problems, let it warm up, and the car didn't shut off again. My main concern really is to be driving down the highway and have it turn off and harm me or others, but I really just want to figure out if it an expensive sounding fix, or something really simple like my battery. Thank you for helping me out. God bless.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check battery for condition including load test auto parts do this for free. Check to see if battery power is getting to starter then check relays, etc. Also check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent them. Finally try to reset your security system look online for youcar if yo don't have amanual for it.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FORDFOCUS2000
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you! I did get the battery checked, and it turned out that my battery had 383 (volts I believe?) When it was suppose to be 600. I did get the battery replaced, but I was informed that my alternator is actually overcharging the battery at a rate of (15.35 something I forgot the value) (when my car is at full load, air conditioner, headlights etc. It's at a rate of 15.33) when the average is supposed to be 14. Is this something that I have to worry about? Do I have to really replace the alternator? If it just affects the battery, how long will my battery last? And if it does just affect the battery, could I just replace the battery over time, and not the really expensive alternator?
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Nope drive it then get eh alternator retested. It should put out 14.7 max not 15.3 it will take the battery out and every other one you put in until you fix it. Sounds like the regulator in alternator is bad.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FORDFOCUS2000
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
How much does it cost to replace the regulator in the alternator? They were saying that they were going to charge me almost 500$ for a brand new alternator, and I really don't have that kind of money.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It's all one assembly if you are mechanically inclined check with an autoparts and see how much it is and replace it your self. It should be on the site here on how to repair, might be a video
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FORDFOCUS2000
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I have a brother who is mechanically inclined, he wants to ask if the alternator is internally in the engine? And is the alternator is external in my engine because of the year?
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THE TYRE TECHNICIAN
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD FOCUS
  • 80,000 MILES
1- Before the car broke down it was juddering along the road like it was a fuel problem or a possible blockage.
2- Car engine conked out altogether, would crank not fire, so assumed it may of run out of diesel.
3- Put diesel in the tank.
4- Still wouldnt fire up or any attempt to fire up.
5- Mechanic came out tested to see if diesel pump was working and diesel was pumping at a great rate. So that ruled that out.
6-Mechanic towed too his garage put it on his computer and it said bad earth.
7- the computer has also said battery electrolyte temperature sensor.
8- the mechanic has been trying too solve this problem now for nearly 2 weeks now and still no closer of solving this problem.
9- The mechanic is now clutching at straws now like the clocks on the dashboard cause hes heard that these could contribute too this problem, he has also taken out the injectors sent them away too be checked too find out why all injectors would go down at the same time. But now he is thinking of getting a secondhand ecu try to reprogram too see if this would work, because he thinks the ecu is giving or receiving false messages.
10 I have had enough now I just wont rid of this, is there any car electricians that can solve this mystery problem, would really appreciate it. Many thanks
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,380 POSTS
I am giving you a diagnostic walk through for your situation. It will help eleimnate a few more possibilities. Just use the link belwo;

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
The alternator is external but the regulator is internal and probably soldered inside. He should be able to see it if he looks under the hood. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove accessory drive belt. Remove power steering pipe support brackets from exhaust manifold. Remove 3 nuts and exhaust manifold heat shield. Raise and support vehicle. Disconnect electrical connectors from generator. Remove lower generator mounting bolt. Lower vehicle. Remove wire harness clip from generator mounting bracket, 2 mounting bolts and generator from vehicle. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten fasteners to specification.
Print this part as it shows how to take it off. Unless this is a 2.0L Ztec engine. Pictured is a typical alternator
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOLSENA2003
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD FOCUS
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 200,000 MILES
Hi My car is a 1.8 TDDI Ford Focus 2000
I was travelling at 65mph when the engine cut out. All electrics work but would not restart.
I have disconnected the plugs and fuel squirts out
Removed the rocker cover and all is moving
Checked the cam belt
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
So it's got spark at plugs?
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
Fuel squirts out of cylinder head plug holes? Is it vaporous or liquid?
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOLSENA2003
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
No spark plugs ( diesel glow plugs )and the fuel was liquid
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES GUSTAFSON
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD FOCUS
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 98,540 MILES
2000 ford focus doesn't start, doesn't even turn over. Went though a stage of starting one time then not the next then hours later it would start again. Now it does nothing the battery is good, cable connections are also good.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,244 POSTS
If you are getting nothing from even the starter, have the ignition switch checked. Also, check under the hood in the relay / fuse block to make sure nothing is loose of burnt.
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Tuesday, April 4th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM (Merged)

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