Mechanics

HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT

2000 Dodge Dakota

Heater problem
2000 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

Does the heater box definately have to come all the way out of the truck or can I take the top off the heater box after everything is loosened, and replace the core and get the lid back on the box while still behind the dash?
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Wigtail
November 30, 2008.



Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.
If equipped with air conditioning, recover the refrigerant.
Disconnect the liquid line refrigerant line fitting from the evaporator inlet tube.
Disconnect the accumulator inlet tube.
Drain the cooling system.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.
Remove the four nuts from the heater–A/C mounting studs on the engine compartment side of the dash panel.
Remove the nut(s) that secure(s) the heater–A/C housing mounting brace to the stud(s) on the passenger compartment side of the dash board.
Pull the housing rearward far enough for the mounting studs and evaporator condensate drain tube to clear the dash panel holes.
Remove the housing from the vehicle.
Lift the heater core out of the housing.
Installation is the reverse of removal.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_0900c152800c09c5_1.jpg


Bluelightnin6
Nov 30, 2008.
Here's the skinny on replacing the core. Heater or ac, same procedure. I just did one.
Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Pull off the plastic dashcover.
Do not take all those screws around the opening out.
The instrument panel can stay.
Remove the plastic lower and center dash covers.
Look right under the steering column at the little black cable and the white thumb adjuster. That cable operates the gear indicator, unhook it from the column or you will break it. They're fun to fix too.
Take the drivers seat out and sit it back a few inches, seriously, the steering wheel will go all the way to the floor but te seat makes it really tight, best to sit the seat back.
Take the two bolts out of the center dash mounting bracket, leave the othe three. 10mm
Disconnect the dash main harness and the little one beside it also.
Look under the dash and see if any wires have been plastic tied. You might want to cut them loose or they can get pulled loose. You decide.
Take the two bottom dash mounting bolts completely out of the sliding thing, dont just loosen them.
Take the four nuts off of the steering column and lower it down. Sit the dash over the center bracket and lay it back. Taking loose another wire plug behind the dash.
Take the flexible hose loose at the heater box. Take the heater cable off at the box and the vacuum lines apart at the connection. Go under the hood.
If equipped with air conditioning, recover the refrigerant.
Disconnect the accumulator inlet tubes.
Drain the cooling system.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.
Remove the four nuts from the heater–A/C mounting studs on the engine compartment side. Hint, one is hid behind the trans fill tube and another one is behind the plastic thing holding the heater hose. Another Hint, you will need a swivel head ratchething wrench 7/16 or 11mm, not a ratchett and socket combo, oh no.
Find the vacuum line going inside by the coolant hoses, and disconnect it.
Go back inside on passenger side.
Remove the mounting brace that secure the heater–A/C housing to dash board.
Pull the housing rearward far enough for the mounting studs and evaporator condensate drain tube to clear the dash panel holes.
Rotate the box and remove it from the vehicle. Some take them out under the dash, i came out the top, rotating the box clockwise coming up and out.
Take the little nut and arm off the flapper. You can leave the push nut alone, but take it off if you can, its easier to put back together. Unplug the vacuum lines from the servos. Be very carefull prying up on the cover, it's very brittle.

Lift the heater core out of the housing.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Any questions, i'll try.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/279457_100_5038_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/279457_100_5107_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/279457_100_5111_1.jpg

wigtail@hotmail.com

Tiny
Wigtail
Dec 3, 2008.
I had to abandon the attempt to do at a later date.

I put what I believe to be the dash and all electrical connectors back.

(I left some trim pieces off)

The electric is definately on. The dash, lights, airbag, etc. All come on.

However, when I turn the key, I have a clicking sound.

Any ideas?

Tiny
Scoty
Dec 7, 2008.
Is the engine trying to crank at all, or just hearing a clicking noise?

If engine isn't cranking, possible faulty battery, alternator or starter. If engine is cranking, possible faulty relay in the dash. If you can tell that the clicking noise is in the dash, try to feel the relays and see if you can feel any of them clicking. This is the one that needs replacing if that is the case.

I went back out to check the rotation, and it fired right up. Thanks for the quick response.

Tiny
Scoty
Dec 7, 2008.
No clicking now?

Great, glad you have your ride up and running again.