Will not start

Tiny
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Long time to make this G.I!

I only concentrated on the ignition part.

Accessories may be hooked up fine (if not, we will work on that later). Work with/ around them leaving connected as you use my ignition diagram.

I used your hand made diagram, several pics (yours and mine) to come up with this.

It looks as though the relays on the left side of your diagram is where the battery voltage fed the ignition (looks like the wire goes nowhere now.

You will see how simple this can work. I think I could have just ran the system pretty quick from scratch than to try to trace down what you have!

If you can make install back to the ignition switch, Your Jeep may perform like his brothers.

I'm beat, I'll try to make the other diagrams that I hope will make your Jeep run smoother/better tomorrow.

I tried to edit-what a cluster- I have one wrong diagram and two good (the same diagram) I hope the 1st two delete as I tried to do. The last one is right. I need to check back and insure you have the right one.

I will post it again below!

And?

The Medic
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Sunday, March 29th, 2020 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
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I thought I submitted this?

Here is the absolute correct diagram that I reworked several times!

The Medic
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Sunday, March 29th, 2020 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for your information. I now my wiring is even crappy on paper. LOL
Great idea of creating one from scratch. =D
I´ll work in wiring as suggested. I´ll run a wire directly from the ignition switch (on) to the ballast resistor (no fuses in between). I will then wire the ballast resistor to coil´s (+). I do not have an Accel resistor. I only have two cheap ballast resistors. One with 0.633 ohms (first picture) and another one with 1.25 ohms (second picture). I´m sure the second one will work for now. I´ll then try to get a hold of an Accel one. I´ll report results shortly.
Thanks for your help Mr Medic!

JC
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Monday, March 30th, 2020 AT 4:47 PM
Tiny
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So I routed wire from "Ignition ON" to (+) on coil with ballast in between. As expected I do have a voltage in (+) coil of around 10.4 V.
Some pictures attached. Left all accessories untouched.
Next step is to crank it?
Thanks

JC

PS: Some tips from suggested previous video put into practice =D
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Monday, March 30th, 2020 AT 5:51 PM
Tiny
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This rebuilt 1979 Carter BBD was used on mine for a few months till I got my Holley 390 4 barrel put on.

There are 2 ports on top that are vents for the bowl, they did run to the charcoal filter. I removed them from that and basically let them breathe through a fuel filter (pic 1 a simulation for you). The fuel filter is just open on the bottom side it just keeps trash out of the vent ports.

In the past I found that if they were completely plugged shut, upon driving then shutting off the engine, the bowl fuel in the bowl would expand/ boil and the carburetor would pour fuel from every hole/ crack it could run out of!

Where I'm going with this is your vacuum booster, distributor, etc, require either manifold vacuum or ported vacuum. This is a given and must happen.

I noticed some vacuum ports on your carburetor are open (not good! These are vacuum leaks! Poor performance/runs rough)

They need to be plugged!

On my first 2 pictures notice I plugged most every port! This was to keep dirt daubers from filling them with mud nests when I stored it!

I recommend vinyl vacuum caps over rubber ones, the rubber type rot away pretty fast (then you have a unseen vacuum leak). Next best deal is a short fuel hose with a small bolt shoved in to seal it off tight.

Here's what I did with the fuel tank vent line (last pic) It used to connect to the charcoal canister. Now that I eliminated the vacuum to it, I eliminated the whole canister too.

Once it will run on it's own, after you get all of this fixed, lets see if you can make it much better than now,

The procedures will work the same as I explain in this post of long ago!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

Your turn,

The Medic
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Monday, March 30th, 2020 AT 6:54 PM
Tiny
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Thanks, again excellent information.
Before moving forward, I have the following questions from previous reply.
Was wiring ballast resistor without going through a fuse okay?
I did not start the engine. Should I try it? Anxious in doing it! LOL

In regards to your latest recommendations, I think I have a small section of fuel hose. I´ll work in plugging all open vacuum vents from carburetor, and will try to identify which are vents for the bowl that used to run to the to the charcoal canister (which by the way is still there but completely disconnected) and leave those open. I´ll then attach a fuel filter just like you showed in your picture.
Fuel tank vents in CJ´s fuel tank are just connected to each other with a small piece of hose (imagine a small hose bent in "U" connecting both fuel tank vents). What problems might this cause?
I´ll for sure take a deep look to post you are recommending.
Thanks Mr. Medic!

JC
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Monday, March 30th, 2020 AT 8:44 PM
Tiny
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Return when you start making some headway!

The Medic
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 5:30 PM
Tiny
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Just so you have this reference, you can follow wires, there are not any fuses in the wires you mentioned. Below is a 1979, I had to sort of modify it so it could be understood. Here's the explanations that might make it clearer.

Most '76-'86 CJ's have a lot of common wiring. This is good one to use for these years.

Yep, I scanned a 2 piece diagram from a paper manual.

I took it to "microsoft paint" and colored the wires the best that I could.

Here's things you must know to read it accurately:

A) along each wire [maybe several places] is "wording" or a "label" with the size and color(s) for the wire.

B) a "white wire" will show up black!

C) a solid color wire will be labeled like this "12a red 10".

12a is a numerical reference # / red is the color / 10 is the gauge of the wire.

Here's the part that will be sorta confusing.

D) some wires have tracer stripes, the manual did not tell what color the stripe was (on any of the striped wires) they are labeled like this "8a grn / tr-18".

8a being a numerical reference # / grn, meaning green wire / tr meaning it has a colored stripe down the wire (stripe color unknown )

So so so so so to make it ez to know/ see there was a wire with a tracer stripe, I simply put black dashes along those wires (exception was on the white wires)

But still, the actual stripe color will not be known till you find the actual wire, where it starts or ends on the jeep (sorry! It does work for me!)

E) illusions! Sometimes it may look like a wire stops, an example might be 3 red wires going into a splice, well one of 'em has a "label" right at the splice (the red color does not go thru the label)

So 2 "red wires" hit the splice along with a "label"- at a glance you only see 2 red wires when there are actually 3. Just be aware of the label "still being" a wire. You can see one example of this in one place where the ignition module gets it's power at "splice l"

My 2 diagrams overlap about on the line between "5 and 6" of the outer rim reference lines. To me it looks like the right side diagram fits better on top of the left side diagram at the overlap. You will notice the fuse box is the area of the overlap.

I sent my 2 parts to the office store via email, had 'em blown up, I taped them together at the overlap, then the office store laminated the one big diagram for me. It's so much easier to read it now!

I'm not perfect, you will find some mistakes!

The Medic
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 6:16 PM
Tiny
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Okay, so there´s not too much of progress today, however. Started the engine and voila! It runs just fine! Refer to video! Hooray! Thanks for your help Mr. Medic! Not sure how was engine able to run before if there was no line fed to coil (+). Well, maybe I will not be able to solve that mystery hehe. Once situation with COVID-9 gets way better, I´ll start looking for Accel ballast, but for now, looks like one in place is working =D
Okay, so I did some quick research and I believe this is how hoses are to be connected to the carburetor. First picture shows hose I´m planning to connect to the open port. Not sure if I should plug it or just connect it, but based on your recommendation, vacuum lines must be plugged so that´s how I´ll proceed. Then, in the front of the carburetor, I believe this is the one I should connect to the open port (second picture). Once again, this is a vacuum so I´ll plug it as well. I´ll continue investigating to ensure this is the right ones to be plugged because of being (vacuum). For other port in the front of the carburetor will investigate if this is the one I should be placing a filter just like yours (vents for the bowl). I´m also attaching picture (third picture) of front ports that are open. One of them (right in picture) will be plugged to hose shown in second picture. I believe carburetor is a 2 barrel Motorcraft 2100. I´ll keep sharing progress.
Just for reference, and complement to my previous reply, I´m attaching two pictures from charcoal canister. Last picture show how fuel tank vents are currently in place.
Thanks

JC
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 8:15 PM
Tiny
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Not sure what happened but I just saw your last reply coming in. I´ll take for sure a detail look into it. Thanks for sharing! This is extremely good information. It will definitely take some time for me to go through all of it but for sure will. Thanks Mr. Medic!
JC

PS: I´m editing my reply, I need a big favor. Could you please reload your first diagram picture. For any strange reason, after saving picture to my desktop and then zoom in, resolution is lost so I´m not able to identify any text. Second picture works just fine after zoom in. Thanks for your help.
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 8:49 PM
Tiny
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Hello,

Asking once again for your help based on your expertise. I have problems with front turning lights. They just do not blink. Rear ones do work. I have set good grounds, validated bulbs are okay, changed flasher. Any guidance you can provide will be more than appreciated.
Thanks

JC
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Thursday, April 9th, 2020 AT 6:05 PM
Tiny
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I'm dealing with the diagram situation now!

As far as your vacuum lines, hook up what requires vacuum, plug the rest. An open "sucking air" port is a vacuum leak! It will interfere with idle and performance.

Okay!

Regarding your question for front turning lights.

Site policy each question's issue needs to be about one issue only in order for the site to properly index the questions. (At present, yours is making your engine run)

Other issues like turn signals/ suspension/ overheating/ etc. etc. needs to be a whole separate "new" question.

For your convenience here is the link:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Make sure you are logged into the site before clicking on the link.

If you want me to aid you in the new question (which is super fine with me!) Please ask for me, "CJ MEDEVAC", during your new question submission. Be sure to ask like it's your first question (not assuming everyone already knows your background info.)

In the past, we just kept on answering on the same thread. Thanks!

The Medic
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Thursday, April 9th, 2020 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
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Roger that. I´ll proceed with new post for issue with parking lights.
I´ll connect vacuum lines. Still looking for information that could definitely confirm how vacuum lines should be connected.
Thanks

JC
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Thursday, April 9th, 2020 AT 7:32 PM
Tiny
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As you progress with this fix, keep posting on this thread (you do not have to respond yet!).

The Medic
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 8:13 AM
Tiny
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Here´s a quick update: So I connected hose to port 1 (picture 1). I also connected hose to port 2 (picture 2). Left port 3 open (picture 3). Started engine and idle was not that good.
Second try was with port 1 connected, ports 2 and 3 open. Idle was way better. I´ll do the test of plugging port three and will let you know how it goes. I do recall that before doing maintenance to carburetor, gasoline came out through this port. Not if I should leave this open.
Thanks

JC
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Wednesday, April 15th, 2020 AT 7:21 PM
Tiny
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Reply got lost.

Trying again.

See pic I made below.

The Medic
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Friday, April 17th, 2020 AT 8:00 AM
Tiny
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Thanks.
So I did what you suggested. Please refer to first three pictures showing how Port 2 was plugged and also intake manifold port as well. First video shows how engine behaved. REvs are very low. And second video shows how it behaves with both ports open. Last picture shows how intake port is connected to brake booster.
So not sure if I should leave both ports open based on this.
Thanks for your help

JC
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Saturday, April 18th, 2020 AT 8:57 AM
Tiny
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No wanty any vacuum leaks (not only cracked hoses/ etc.) Any open sucking port is a "vacuum leak"!

If idle lacks, surely you can screw in the idle adjustment screw?

When the Jeep is fully warmed up to operating temperature, and you actuate the throttle a bit, does the choke plate fully stand up vertically? Or does it remain partially shut as in your videos?

We have to properly adjust it to get it to fully be off (un-choked) and to operating temperature when tuning. Mix screws/ idle speed.

Ya?

The Medic
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Saturday, April 18th, 2020 AT 7:09 PM
Tiny
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Hello,

Here are some videos of how plate looks when engine is warm.
Last video shows how will it behave if I plug some ports. Engine will not start or will die right away.
On my previous videos, I did notice that when ports are plugged, fumes are darker. I even place a rag few inches away of muffler and dark was present.
Should we plug ports and adjust carburetor?
Thanks

JC
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 7:36 PM
Tiny
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There should only be one vacuum leak (a hose actually sucking air) That would be the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), it will suck out harmful gases and water vapor inside the engine. It should receive fresh air from a 2nd port in the valve cover(s).

Depriving the fresh air pretty much makes the PCV where it cannot suck air at all. The line might as well be plugged off if it cannot suck air!

Make it work properly!

The carburetor idles not only by using a little air down the carburetor, but the CFMs that are generated through the PCV are factored into the air fuel mix that moves in the carburetor!

Even using the wrong PCV may affect the CFMs that makes the carburetor run properly!

I know this link was crude.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

Did you plug off the distributor's vacuum line while timing?

Correct idle speed while timing?

Both mix screws are even?

Mix screws (seats) were not damaged in the past (by others) from over-tightening?

Wish I had some hands on, this seems to be the most frustrating part of online fixing!

The Medic
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 8:17 PM

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