1984 Jeep CJ7 Repair Question
Mileage: 999,999 miles.
Cranks, but won't start
Answer
Check and test the distributor pick-up coil and also the ignition control module and return with your findings.
You need a DVOM to perform the tests on the distributor pick-up coil in the distributor, also a ignition module tester to check the IC Ignitor
FOR SURE, ADVANCE AUTO CAN CHECK YOUR MODULE
SEE MY ANSWERS AT THIS POST
http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1977-jeep-wagoneer-77-360-begun-dying-random-only-happens-on-longer-drives-say
I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOUR ALARM DOES (IF IT AFFECTS IGN OR NOT)
THE REASON YOUR JEEP "BUSTS OFF" WHILE CRANKING IS BECAUSE IT IS GETTING FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE FROM "I TERMINAL" ON THE SOLENOID.....LIKE IT SHOULD!
SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A PROBLEM BETWEEN THE ACTUAL IGN SWITCH AND THE COIL
YOU MAY HAVE A SHORT, MAYBE MELTED WIRES ON THE MANIFOLD--SHAKE YOUR HARNESS WHILE SOMEONE ELSE CRANKS
GOT THE CORRECT COIL?......."FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR"????
RETURN WITH NEWS.....INVESTIGATE OTHER CJ 5 AND 7 POSTS IN THE 2CARPROS FORUMS
TRY THIS TEST TOO (PIC 2) THIS SHOULD FIRE UP YOUR JEEP WITHOUT THE POSSIBILITY OF A SHORT IN THE SYSTEM KILLING IT.....DEPENDING ON RESULTS, WE MAY KNOW WHERE TO CONCENTRATE OUR EFFORTS
WAITING ON YOU
THE MEDIC
GUESSING IT'S NOT IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, AS IT DOES TRY TO START WHILE IT'S TURNING OVER
I DO HAVE PICS TO TEST IT---IF NEED BE
I'LL BE BACK ON AROUND 19:00 HRS EASTERN TIME, AFTER WORK
THE MEDIC
I can definitely have the ICM checked, but the vehicle has a MSD ignition wired in and the harnass fromt he ICM is disconnected. I tried reconnecting it because someone said this can function as a backup ignition and that didn't seem to help.
The coil I bought said "use with electronic ignition" It is a BWD E71P coil. It doesn't specify "external resistor," but I looked it up and it is compatible with my model jeep/engine per the website. I did a google search and it sounds like this does work with the external resistor.
ICM checked out fine. The connections have some corrosion that I will clean before reattaching. The ICM they had for sale was crappy and since mine worked I didn't want to buy it there.
I went and bought a new coil that specifically says for use with external resister. This didn't make any difference. I tried the alligator clips from the battery pos terminal post terminal of the coil and then negative alligator clip from neg coil to the coil connector thing on your picture #2 above, got nothing with the key in the off and run position (didn't advance key to start position with this hookup). The coil was connected to the distributor when I did this test (is that correct?)
Autozone said they can't test distributors. Should I just replace?
Anyone know a good jeep mechanic in the Seattle area?????
I VISITED FT. LEWIS 6 TIMES, IN THE '80s, TRAINING WITH 2ND RANGER BATTALION (I WAS IN 1ST RANGER BAT, IN SAVANNAH, GA).....SO YOUR BESTUS JEEP JEEP GUY IS BACK OVER HERE ON THE EAST COAST!
LET'S GET A "KEY ON" VOLTAGE TEST ON THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL---SEE PIC 1---YOUR READING DOES NOT HAVE TO MATCH MINE!
THEN HOOK UP LIKE 2ND PIC---TURN KEY TO "START"....DOES IT CRANK UP AND RUN?
SEND PIC OF NEW DISTRIBUTOR AND ANOTHER OF IT'S WIRING COMING OUT OF IT
SO FAR YOU SAID IT WILL BUST OFF AND RUN, WHILE THE KEY IS IN START
THIS HAS ME "ASSUMING" THE DISTRIBUTOR IS GOOD---THE MODULE--IS GOOD----FUEL IS GOOD
FOR NOW---LETS GET IT HOOKED BACK UP, JUST LIKE IT WAS, WHEN IT WAS RUNNING
CHANGING THE FACTORS---REVERTING STUFF BACK LIKE ORIGINAL---MODIFYING STUFF---INVENTING NEW COMBINATIONS----MAKING UP YOUR OWN TESTS----STABBING AT STUFF AS YOUR BUDDY (WHO IS MORE LOST THAN YOU) SUGGESTS TO DO
.......WILL ONLY MAKE IT HARDER TO TEST AND DIAGNOSE, WE SORTA NEED TO METHODICALLY CHECK STUFF
I HAVE NOT FULLY RULED OUT A FUEL PROBLEM.....BUT WE WILL GO THERE IF NEED-BE
JUST GOT NEWS THAT MY MAMA IS HAVING CAR ISSUES--30 MILE TRIP---I'LL BE BACK AS SOON AS I CAN!
THE MEDIC
STILL WAITIN' ON YOU!
I WENT AHEAD AND LOOKED UP YOUR NSS....IS THIS IT BELOW?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_neutral-safety-switch-back-up-light-bwd_18971592-p?searchTerm=neutral+safety+switch
YOU CAN EZily TEST YOURS BY REMOVING IT AND ACTUATING THE "BALL" WHILE RUNNING A CONTINUITY TEST ON THE TWO TERMINALS.....1ST & 2ND PICS SHOWS THE PROCESS......IF YOU CAN UNDERSTAND MY HILLBILLY HOMEMADE PICS
IF IT DOES SHOW UP BAD, IT'S BEST TO REPLACE IT--"SAFETY" IS PART OF IT'S NAME......IT AIN'T REAL EXPENSIVE EITHER
MY VERY 1ST PIC SHOWS BYPASSING EVERYTHING AND RUNNING THE IGN OFF OF THE BATTERY
THE 3RD & 4TH PICS DOES THE SAME THING EXCEPT WE ARE LEAVING THE SUSPECTED "BAD" KEY CIRCUIT INCLUDED.....SEE IF THIS WILL MAKE IT RUN
I NEED SOME FEEDBACK---ESPECIALLY THE VOLTAGE AT THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL W/ THE KEY ON! (FROM MY LAST ANSWER)
THE MEDIC