Engine will crank but not start up?

Hi,

This vehicle has an ignition control module under the coil pack. It can be bad. Since you already replaced the crank sensor and coils, I suspect that is the issue. What I suggest at this point is to scan the computer for diagnostic trouble codes.

Here is a quick video showing how it's done:

https://youtu.be/Cg1WO0UKIYM

Also, here is a list of OBD2 codes for your reference:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Joe, I've tried a code reader and it says there's no codes stored in the computer. I've got a new ignition control module and I'm going to replace that tomorrow. Thanks

Let me know if that takes care of the issue.

Take care,
Joe

Joe,

I replaced the ignition control module and now have fire at the plugs but the car still just cranks and won't start. I can hear a clicking noise inside the relay panel when ignition is turned on. I'm not sure if that's supposed to happen or not but I've never noticed it before.
Thanks,
Dwayne

Hi,

It's normal for a relay to make a click. Tell me, do you hear the fuel pump turn on for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on? Also, see if it starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid and then stalls. If it does, then we have a fuel related issue. Do you know which relay is making noise?

I attached a pic below of the under hood fuse box. I highlighted the fuel pump relay. See if that is what is making the noise.

Let me know.
Joe

It is getting fuel also.

If you have fuel and spark to the plugs, it has no choice but to run. Will it start for a couple seconds using starting fluid? You may have fuel pressure but no injector pulse.

Let me know.
Joe

Engine Performance problem
1999 Chevy Malibu 6 cyl Automatic

Car will turn over but won't start, changed the fuel pump relay and fuel pump but the fuel pump is still not pumping fuel. The car wil run with a small amount of gas poured into the throttle body, so what can be casuing the fuel pump to not pump and what are the solutions?

This sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Any idea what is/could be wrong with my car?

I was At the drive through ordering. and my Car died. and it would not start, it was working fine before that. No weird sounds, no sputtering. nothing. just BAM - dead, out of the blue.

(When i turned the wheel. it squealed a little bit. I figured that was the power steering pump. but I did notice it just before - and only if I turned the wheels to far to the side).

When I tried to start it, it sputtered, and my friend commented, thats what it sounds like/acts, when her car is out of Gas. - I had just under a 1/4th a tank of Gas so that likely wasn't it. I towed it home the next day.

I had a friend look at it Who said it has compression issues. - and then commented that possibly it is a valve spring stuck open. - He offered to do compression tests for $50 an hour and tow it to his house to do it.

Another friend looked at it. checked the fuses. checked the spark plugs. all were fine. - When he throttled it from the engine, it started, and stayed started for about 20 minutes, but was running rough/stuttered. He said. it could be the the Crank sensor. Maybe A valve Spring. he did listen for the fuel pump, and must have heard it, so was'nt concerned that could of been it. My brother just sent me a message saying it could be the Fuel Filter.

If you need any more info, ask. or if you have any ideas, i'd appriciate them.. thank you..

pour fuel in the throttle body does it start.youll also gonna need a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure.

Okee.. i'm not sure where the throttle body is.. but i'm sure i can find that on google.. and a fuel pressure gauge, i'll pick up from the local autozone.

take the air filter off .the throttle body is round in the middle of motor.this sounds like a bad fuel pump.

Car was running pretty good and I parked it and next time I tried to use it, it cranked but wouldn't start. It acts like it's not getting fuel. Gas tank was really low on fuel so I added a couple gallons with a gas can. No change. I am lost on what I should try to do. Thanks

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

A crank no start condition can be the result of a few things. With that in mind, I need you to read through this link. It discusses the most common causes of a crank no start condition. Do this and let me know the result. I will provide directions for repair once you tell me what is found.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

I will watch for your reply. Also, feel free to ask any questions if you have them.

Take care,
Joe

1999 Malibu LS 3.1 L Style M OBDII

Previously...
-Dim headlights
-Random ABS, Brake, Theft Light, but always off at next start up
-Sun Roof doest always like to close
-Gas gauge works until your down to a half tank, then it starts to go back up instead of down until its empty, then it shows empty
-Sometimes when you turn on the a/c, the gas gauge jumps to full and stays there until you shut it off
-Check engine came on once, but was off at next start up
-occasionally had to tap gas at startup

And then...
-Driving home, turned right --car died, no warning lights, or funny noises, just died.
-Initially restarted, but it was rough and sounded like it had a timing issue.
-Towed it home and now it will crank but not start.

-tried ether, no fire--but you can hear the fuel pump
-spark plug test shows no spark
-checked all fuses inside and underhood
-all 3 coils and coil wire were checked
-changed crank position sensor, no change
-changed ignition control module, no change
-changed igntion switch, no change
-checked the only known fusible link by the alternator, its good
-checked for continuity and connection issues around cps, icm, and pcm
-did the relearn procedure for the computer

It is not passlock, the security light does not flash. Tried to reset it anyways, and the light never went off

The multimeter died after checking the igntion switch--coincidence??

SO whats left??? Why wont my car start????

Does the battery have a full charge, are the cables clean and tight on both ends? Are there any codes?

If you have no spark anywhere, with the engine cranking, I'd start testing the circuits at the ignition module. Did you test for B+ and ground at the ignition module, with the key on? The pink wire is B+ goes hot when you turn the key on, the black wire is ground. You take the connector loose, put a testlite between the pink and black wire, turn on the key, you don't need to crank it. The testlite should come on? If it doesn't, try using chassis/engine ground instead of the black wire, anything?

If that checks out, there is a purple wire with a white tracer that goes from the ignition module to the computer, with the engine cranking, there should be a pluse on that wire?

My info shows two crank sensors on your vehicle, I don't know which one you replaced or of you replaced both? I'm not saying to replace anything, just do some testing.

i had my husband check all the wiring you suggested--still nothing. he changed the 7x crankshaft sensor. im starting to wonder if it isnt the pcm itself--nothing is adding up--

I need the results of the tests. With the key on, is the pink wire at the ignition module, hot?

With the engine cranking is there a pulse on the purple wire with the white tracer?

yes--both the pink and the purple and wire wire were hot while crankinging--thanks for the help !!!

The purple wire with white tracer, should have a pulse, on and off signal, with the engine cranking. The white wire also.

A dmm with a tack or duty cycle or dwell setting will react to a pulse. If your just looking at voltage, I'm not sure what it would show.

You may have to check the cam sensor, I believe that is a hall switch, three wires, voltage, ground, signal. The brown wire with the white tracer, should be the signal wire, the other two are voltage and ground. If I'm testing circuits that go to the computer, I try to use a led testlite. I try not to plug or unplug sensors with the key on. You can unplug the cam sensor connector, turn on the key, use the testlite between the voltage and ground terminal, see if you get a lite? If you do, turn the key off, plug in the connector, crank the engine, backprobe the signal wire, brown with a white tracer, see if there is a signal?

The cam signal and the 7X may have to be in sync, your starting to get into issues, that, at the very least, you need a good scanner.

sorry it took so long to reply--but i had to wait until we could afford a scanner--and guess what--no codes!!!
he was unable to measure a pulse, but the purple and white wire is hot.
but because there ar eno cides--what could it be--from reading the manual that cam with the sensor--everything has a code!

A scanner will show live engine data plus trouble codes, a code reader won't show live engine data.

I've always thought for some manufacturers to call a code reader, a scanner, misrepresented the instrument. I'm not trying to argue the point, people can call it, what ever they want.

Live engine data will show an rpm signal with the vehicle cranking, the rpm signal comes from the crank sensor. A good scanner will show if there is a signal from the crank sensors and cam sensor, plus alot more information.

The way I see it, if the ignition module is good and you have B+ and ground to the module and there is a signal from the crank sensor that plugs into the module, there should be spark at the plugs while cranking.

I've seen plenty of times when a code should set, but, never did. Because you can't check for an rpm signal, I'm not sure where to go from here? You might be able to trick the ignition module by using a testlite connected to B+ and tickle the A&C crank sensor terminals alternately at the ignition module cavity for the crank sensor plug. You need a spark tester, I guess a known good spark plug would work, just pull a plug boot, stick the plug in the boot, lay metal park of plug against metal part of engine, turn on the key, tickle the terminals already mentioned, see if you can induce a spark at the test plug.

I just wanted to add, test for spark with the multiwire connector loose from the ignition module. If you don't feel comfortable testing, then don't.

Engine Performance problem
1998 Chevy Malibu 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 140.00 miles

troubleshooting test indicated P0301 & P 0335 Crankshaft position sensor I installed new plugs, crankshaft and camshaft position sensors and tested ign. coils tested over 10,000 OHMS but did notice some carbon paths on them. but still no results ?

Welcome to the forum. I'd have to visually check for spark at the plugs. It might be a pain to do with your system, but, still possible. I'd also want to know if injector for cylinder number 1, is working. As far as the cam sensor, I'd check reference, ground and signal. You may need to do an ohms test on the crank sensor wire harness. Also, use a gage and check fuel pressure.

i run my car heat, now it wont start at all. It seems to want to start, but the engine just wont turn over. how do i check to see have i blown my engine?

Hi there,

if you have severely overheated the engine the piston rings may have lost tension and you have low compressions, start with a compression test, also check for fuel pressure, spark & injector pulse, do this and report back your findings.

mark (mhpautos)

Sometimes the car will start and sometimes it wont. My car is a 2002 Chevrolet Malibu.

Good evening,

When it does not start, you will need to check for fuel pressure and spark.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

One of them is missing and need to see which one. it could be a fuel pump, ignition module, crank sensor or PCM.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Roy

It has spark but fuel pressure is low. so how do i know is if it's the fuel pump or fuel filter?

the filter will not change the pressure. it has a bypass in the filter itself.

if the pressure is low, it is the fuel pump.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Roy

Is this for a 2002 Malibu?

That is correct. the picture is for your car.

Roy

procedure

1. Remove the fuel tank (4).

IMPORTANT:
^ The modular fuel sender assembly may spring up from position.
^ When removing the modular fuel sender assembly from the fuel tank, be aware that the reservoir bucket is full of fuel. The reservoir must be tipped slightly during removal to avoid damage to the float. Discard the fuel sender seal and replace the seal with a new one.
^ Carefully discard the reservoir fuel into an approved container.

2. Press down and rotate the cam lock ring (1) until free of the fuel sender retaining tabs.
3. Remove the modular fuel sender assembly.
4. Remove the fuel level sensor.