Engine Wont turn over?

Tiny
ODINAY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 JEEP LIBERTY
  • 146,000 MILES
Hi, I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited 4x4 3.7 engine. Sometimes it will act like the battery is dead, won't turn over, then when it finally does start, I have to depress the accelerator slightly to get it to idle. After a short time, it will idle and run properly. It doesn't always do this, but it seems to do it if I've had the AC or headlights on. I had the battery and alternator tested and they checked OK. What do you suggest I do to it?
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Thursday, December 21st, 2017 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,752 POSTS
Once it acts up again try to keep it in that bad state so there's a defect to be found, then use a digital voltmeter starting at the battery and working your way toward the starter to find the bad connection. I can send you to a web page describing that procedure in more detail. It's actually pretty easy.

The idle speed problem is due to the Engine Computer losing its memory from the low voltage / bad connection. Once that is fixed I can describe the simple fix to relearn "minimum throttle".
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Thursday, December 21st, 2017 AT 12:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CASMIHOK
  • MEMBER
  • 194 POSTS
  • 2005 JEEP LIBERTY
  • 3.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 163,000 MILES
As you can tell by my history of question my vehicle likes to test me, LOL! That's okay, I am trying to do my best to do the work myself, because I really can't afford mechanics and I don't know who is and who isn't reputable where I am. I have a few questions, first one isn't too big though.
So, I got my battery charged and tested yesterday. They tested it before it was charged, and it said good battery, after they charged it, it says reolace and is down about 50 CCA from what I should have minimum of 600 CCA. Is there any room for error on those high tech machines? Is it normal to get a good, then replace reading after charging? Should I trust that? Thank you.

So, secondly and more majorly - they told me I need a new battery but this on will be good for a few miles. I haven't given the vehicle a good ride in a few days so I went to take it for a spin about 1:00 AM last night, LOL. About 5 miles down away, it jerked heavily, check engine light, oil light, and stalled. I pulled over, turned it off, checked under the hood. The only thing visually, is that there's something strange going on with the oil. Ill attach two images to show what is going on in my oil and I've never seen this before, I know it isn't normal but I don't know what it is or how to fix it.

My dipstick was reading full, but my car wouldn't start after shutting it off and it looked very strange and dry down in there, so I added a good bit. Given that it said it was full, I didn't want to flood, so I eyeballed the amount. After that, luckily I was able to get the car started, and whipped around and drove straight home. It was a little rough ride, for sure. My check engine codes are 0339, and 0344. Crankshaft, and camshaft. I already had the crankshaft code thrown at me a few weeks ago, so I already purchased that. I still have to replace it but the code went away after replacing ignition coil so I didn't feel urgency. I am going to order a camshaft sensor, and replace both of them.

I read online that stalling with the 0344, is usually a symptom of a faulty wire. Now, that worries me because I am not an electrical genius! I can undo a few sensors, and replace them, but what if the issue is electrical? How can I diagnose that?

Could the 0344 and 0339 sensors be related to the oil problem? Also I use the correct oil for my truck, and I use Lucas additive because without it my truck burns through the oil.

In the video I am attaching of the oil, that was taken literally as soon as I broke down, and before I added oil. As you can see on the cap, and down in there, shades of white and brown. That is new and clearly not good. It's never been like that, always black and no residue. If you notice I also struggled to get that piece under the cap out more than usual, almost like it melted in there, got a little too hot maybe? So after I added the oil and was able to drive home, the oil light didn't come back on. What could be going on?

For info on what I use as oil, I am currently using Quaker

Sorry for this loaded question, you guys are genuinely my life savers. Thank you so much, have a great day

Edit: For some reason my videos always cut off when I view them, I don't know if you see them cut off or not. When Google drive processes the video, I will put up a public link to view it. Sorry for technical difficulties
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOTOR MASTER
  • MECHANIC
  • 279 POSTS
Hello my name is Dave.

Your research sounds fairly accurate as far as a wiring issue which is usually the case when you have codes for both the cam and crank sensor as you do. Here is a link to our tutorial on testing wiring:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I am also including a link to our tutorial on using a voltmeter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

I have also attached a diagram of the engine and sensors, I would start by checking for the 5 volt reference to both sensors, moving the wire while checking them to see if it effects the voltage as a lot of times when the wires are broken and/or shorted the voltage will fluctuate when the wires are moved. Please keep us up to date on your progress and thank you for using 2CarPros!
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CASMIHOK
  • MEMBER
  • 194 POSTS
Okay, I will get started on looking at those wires today.
Now, is the cam and crank/wiring related to my milky oil? Or is that a separate issue?
I am hoping it's just condensation in the oil, because these past few weeks I've driven my truck less than ever because I have my late grandfather's car too. I thought maybe since my Jeep sat for a while, and with extreme weather changes, it hasn't been able to burn off vapor. Could that be why it's milky? But I did stall and break down, oil light and check engine light. I was able to get home after adding a little oil. What do you think?
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,948 POSTS
We handle one problem per thread. we will handle the no cranking on this one. Lets test the battery ourselves. here is a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down this guide and report back.

Post additional subjects here. Please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CASMIHOK
  • MEMBER
  • 194 POSTS
That is solved, my battery is dead. Thank you!
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,948 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMIEH
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2004 JEEP LIBERTY
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 170,000 MILES
My vehicle has lots of power (I jumped the starter) but will not turn over with the key. The small wire at the starter also will not power up at any key position. I have checked the fuses and all seem well. I am stumped?
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Use voltage tester on the fuses in the diagram, check for voltage. Even if the fuses are good, if no voltage, the circuit is dead. One of the fuses is hot all the time, one goes hot with the key in the crank position, the other goes hot with the key on. At the starter relay, terminal 30 is hot all the time, terminal 86 goes hot with the key on, no crank. The coil side of starter relay is grounded by the pcm. The pcm receives a crank signal from one of the fuses already listed, in the diagram, goes hot with key in the crank position. Also, your clutch switch could cause a problem? Any testing make sure the tranny is in neutral and a functional e-brake is set. I looked a liberty limited.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/170934_jeep_liberty_limited_1.jpg

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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMIEH
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I'll check this out. I just noticed that when I try to start it, there is a key with a slash through it on the dash. I cant recall seeing this before. Could it be in some kind of security shut down? Is the clutch switch the piece that is on the rod that goes through the fire wall?
Thanks for the help by the way. : )
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
If the problem is your theft system, I can't trouble shoot without using a scanner on it. Did you try a different key?

The clutch switch should be located at the left rear of engine compartment. I tried to post a couple of diagrams, didn't work for some reason?
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DENNIS PETERS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I found a chafed wire down by my 4wd driveshaft fixed it and now it cranks over, white wire with black stripe
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Great information. Thanks. I have actually seen something very similar. I think there is a TSB out there for this harness chafing so apparently we aren't the only ones.

Thanks for adding your input.
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KETCUTIE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 JEEP LIBERTY
Steering problem
2002 Jeep Liberty 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My key will go in the key hole but it wont unlock to turn over or start. The ignition is locked up? What would this be?
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AJMEDICO
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Unfortunately, this is very common with the Jeep Liberty. The ignition key lock manufactured was inferior in quality. You will have to change the ignition lock in order for it to work again. You will also probably end up with two separate keys, one for the ignition, 1 for the door lock
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 11:03 AM (Merged)

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