1997 Toyota Avalon Repair Question
Start by measuring the battery voltage with the engine off. It should be close to 12.6 volts. Lower than that it is not fully charged. Next, measure that voltage again with the engine running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it is low, the generator is not working, either because it is defective or because the circuitry is not turning it on.
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The clicking could be due to a bad starter or its connections. Check the ground circuit and terminals. clean and retighten to test.
Does jump starting works now?
As to the stalling, get the throttle body and IAC cleaned. When battery loses its charge, it can affect the the idling speed as computer needs to relearn thereby the idling speed would be too low resulting in stalling.
ummm ok when i test the battery's charge its around 12.7 but when i try to start the engine it stopped doing that multiple click thing, now its just the lights blinking really fast like the door lights etc. does that help any at all, because i think its a simple problem to resolve i just need some help
and when you say generator, do you mean the alternator or something else, because right now i cant even get the engine to start but there is full juice in the battery.
ok i think this will help you out, i can get the car running by jumping it with another car, but as soon as i turn the brights on the car just dies, does that help youll in anyway of identifying the problem.
Did you check the battery connections?
As a former instructor I learned real quick to use correct terminology. Since the mid 1960s cars have used "AC generators". In 1960 Chrysler introduced it as the "alternator" and copyrighted the term. In an attempt to standardize terminology the industry uses "AC generator" but we all know what we mean by "alternator". It's the same thing.
12.7 volts in the battery means it was getting charged and you likely have a starting problem and as such, KHLow2008 has pointed you in that direction. In a very rare case there could be one of the two solenoid coils open, (broken), and the higher voltage from the jump-start gets it to work. That can be a tricky one to find. Much more commonly you have a simple loose or corroded battery cable connection that is getting squeezed tighter by the jumper cable clamp. (If I'm right, it will still start with the jumper cables connected to your car only and not the assisting car). There's a couple of different ways to approach that. The fastest is to just take the battery cables off, clean them, and be sure they're tight when you put them back together. If that solves the problem, you have to just assume that was what was wrong. The better but more time-consuming way is to measure the "voltage drops" or to simply measure the voltage at various points in the fat cables going to the engine and to the starter. Voltage drops will identify exactly where the bad connection is so you know you're fixing the right thing. It takes a lot longer to explain voltage drops than to actually measure them so if you want to pursue that route, I'll send you to a page that shows how to do it and interpret the results. All you need is an inexpensive digital voltmeter, and a helper to turn the ignition switch.
17,280 answers provided
ok thats good advice but i found something else out to, the engine start when its jumped but as soon as you take the cables off and take the key out to stop the engine and as soon as you put the key right back in to try to start it doesnt start another words i jumped the car then took the key out and put it right back in and it wouldnt start
Either the battery is weak or you have a bad cable connection. If you are not going to do as advised, there is nothing we can do to help.