MY 97 STALLS WHILE BREAKING/SLOWING DOWN, AT A COMPLETE STOP AND IN REVERSE
1997 Dodge Dakota • 150,500 miles
It also idles really high at around 800/900 rpms and shifts hard and delayed. When in the cab I can hear a slight knocking sound when it idles from the vibration of the engine and it's really rough. The fuel economy is rapidly decreasing, I go through about 1/3 of a tank a day and I only drive about 20 miles combined to and from work. When breaking I can feel the truck sputtering and at a complete stop it almost always feels like it is going to choke up and stall out. The oil pressure is also slightly erratic, but that's a new problem. It always starts back up, but very rarely I have to give it a little gas for it to turn over. I've ran a fuel line and fuel injector cleaner through it, replaced the TPS and fuel pump, had a complete tune up, checked the air filter and all of the fluids. What is causing this?
March 29, 2012.
March 29, 2012.
Is the check engine light on. Have you scanned the computer for stored codes. Check it and get back to me
The check engine light is not on. It flashed on once when it stalled out but promptly went away. I've had it put on a scanner 3 separate times. The first and last time there were no codes, but the 2nd time it showed a misfire, which is when I had the tune up. I've also had a vacuum leak fixed and recently sprayed some starter on all the hoses and fittings to make sure it didn't return, and that came out fine.
After the tune up did it run smooth? Sounds like its misfires. What engine is in the truck? When its running poor @ idle and shaking try pulling inject or connectors off or coil wires if and note which cylinders have little to no affect on how it runs. That will be the cylinder that is not working. After that we can narrow it down. Let me know how this works out.
It ran smooth for about a day and then started messing up again. It's done that with every element I've replaced and after I ran the cleaner through. I'll try that out tomorrow when there's light again and get back to you.
Alright, so I cleaned up the throttle body, ended up having to replace the iac valve and the gasket on the throttle plate. Also tested the ignition coil with a ohm meter and the readings were spot on. I did this after hooking up a code reader and getting the code for the ignition coil. It's starting up better and doesn't feel like it's going to die when braking, but there's still a starvation issue. When I open the throttle too quickly I can still feel it choking up, so my acceleration isn't great, but it is improved. It is also still idling hard, I can feel the engine shaking, but the rpms have stabilized.
Check and see if its still setting a code. If it is let me know what the code is.
Check fore spark @ each plug wire end and check your firing order make shore all plug wires are on the correct plugs
Will do and I'll get back to you to let you know the results. It died again in my drive way this morning and now I'm having a problem getting it to start up. It cranks and starts to turnover then dies immediately after.
When i start my truck i hear and ticking noise and it does NOT go away after it warms up or it does not go away at all. When i accelerate the ticking noise gets faster and when im ...
6 answers • 2010 Chevrolet Suburban • 143,000 miles
I have a 1999 Buick Regal with a 3.8 Series2 Vin K engine. It appears the engine has died after overheating with that GM problem of the intake manifold. I need to know what engines & ...
2 answers • 1999 Buick Regal • 125,500 miles
If i took out my 91 toyota carolla engine what other cars would it be compatible with?
4 answers • 1991 Toyota Corolla
1990 Toyota Camry mileage: 150,000. 1. The oil warning light is on. 2. There are four quarts of oil in the car. 3. The oil filter is dry. 4. The engine sounds rough. 5. There is noise ...
3 answers • 1990 Toyota Camry • 150,000 miles