Starter not working (possible security issue)

Tiny
RUINOCR
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LAREDO
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 216,000 MILES
Vehicle listed above Grand Cherokee blew out a tension-er, and replaced it, drove fine that night. I had to jump it the next morning and the alarm sounded and no start. Finally replaced the battery, and still no start unless I leave key in "on" position and bridge the starter bolts with a screwdriver, then it starts and runs fine. Pictured is the little security box with "panic" and "valet" buttons. I have tried a bunch of different key in door and ignition and combos thereof that I found, and no luck on a workaround. Cannot locate anything where everything says the module is supposed to be behind the glove box, but found one similar with only 6 pins under dash by the steering column. Also, issues with the cluster (no fuel gauge, oil and temperature are off and on, and usually follow accelerator when it first starts out).
Images (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Monday, October 1st, 2018 AT 11:45 AM

8 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 51,453 POSTS
Can I ask if the alarm is factory or aftermarket? If factory is the security light flashing? This guide can help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

Please run this test and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 12:04 PM
Tiny
RUINOCR
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
We are pretty sure that although the box on the dash with the buttons has a Chrysler sticker that it is aftermarket, possibly put in as a workaround for the factory system.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 3rd, 2018 AT 12:08 PM
Tiny
IRROL4
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LAREDO
Engine Mechanical problem
1993 Jeep Laredo Four Wheel Drive Automatic

won't start/ has new battery/gets power/tries to turn over but back fires and stalls.
Had it running/ sat idling for approx 15 minutes and sounded great/ drove around block fine and sounded and felt normal. Pulled into driveway, turned off and went to start it back up after a few moinutes and it repeated original symptoms of trying to turn over it would sputter and back fire a little, more like a poof not a real backfire would sound.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, October 4th, 2018 AT 10:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, October 4th, 2018 AT 10:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BENCHESSMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1991 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LAREDO
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 199,000 MILES
All my routine maintenance is up to date on my Jeep. REcently, my check engine light came on and when I read it with a computer it said to check my MAP sensor and my O2 sensor because my fuel/air mixture was running rich. I replaced both and checked my vacuum lines as well and now my car won't even start. The only thing I can think of is that about a month ago I started to hear a noise that sounded like a whirring that would get higher in pitch as I accelerated and eventually disappear around 2,500 rpm's. I had thought it was maybe a bearing that needed replaced but yesterday when I took the drive belt off to try to find which bearing it is they all were smooth and quiet so now I am completely confused. Any suggestions? I am at my wit's end.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, October 4th, 2018 AT 10:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Hi, if the vehicle cranks ok, have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the plugs. Then, use a gage and check fuel pressure. If a code points at a sensor, I try to check the sensor circuits first. Ref voltage--ground and signal for the map sensor. The map sensor shares ref voltage and ground with other sensors.

Sometimes, if I hear a noise that might be a pulley bearing, With everything hooked up and engine running, I use a long shank screwdriver, touch the tip to the body of anything pulley driven, the other end of screwdriver shank, I place up to my head, close to my ear. My hearing is no good, that procedure helps me, sometimes, to locate where the noise is coming from. You just have to be careful not to get caught up in belt-- pulley--fan or anything.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, October 4th, 2018 AT 10:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BENCHESSMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Sweet. Thanks very much for the advice. I will check those things out today. Appreciate it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, October 4th, 2018 AT 10:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 51,453 POSTS
Let us know what you find.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, October 4th, 2018 AT 10:29 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Related Engine Not Cranking Over Content

Car Not Cranking? Try This | EASY
VIDEO
Car Not Cranking? Try This | EASY
In­struc­tional re­pair video
Starter Not Working
GUIDE
Starter Not Working
This guide is de­signed to help you iden­tify whether the is­sue with your non-work­ing starter mo­tor is due to an elec­tri­cal prob­lem or a fault within the starter mo­tor it­self...
VIEW MORE