Remove the wheel, brake caliper, (be sure to not let it hang by the hose), and brake rotor. Pound the old stud out. Insert the new one, then place a larger nut or stack of washers over the stud so at least five or six threads are still visible. The hole in those washers or nut should be big enough so they do not get stuck on the stud. Install a lug nut backward so the flat side is against those washers, and use it to draw the stud in. Do not over-tighten the lug nut to avoid peeling the threads on the stud. Use a click-type torque wrench and tighten the nut to no more than about 110 foot pounds. Tap on the hub right next to that stud to help irritate it in all the way.
Remove the washers or nut, the reinstall everything normally. High-temperature brake grease should be applied to the caliper's mounting points and around the center hole of the rotor. If you are going to use any type of lubricant on the studs, make that a very light film of axle grease. Absolutely no anti-seize compound, and no big wads of grease. Tighten the nuts to 95 foot pounds if you have steel wheels, and 85 foot pounds if you have cast wheels. Be careful to not get any grease on the contact points between the nuts and the wheel. Re-tighten the nuts after a few miles, then again after about one hundred miles. If the stud was not drawn in all the way, road forces and bouncing will bring it in, and that will make the nut loose. That is why it needs to be re-tightened a couple of times.
Sunday, May 28th, 2017 AT 7:53 PM