And definitely use a click-type torque wrench to prevent a repeat problem. Over-tightening is the main cause of broken studs and peeled threads. The studs on an '06 are not old enough to be rusty yet. Even my '88 Grand Caravan that lives in the salt-use capital of the country has never had a broken stud.
I'm not sure what the spec is for an '06, but throughout the '80s and '90s, it was 95 foot pounds for Chrysler cars and minivans with steel wheels; less for vehicles with cast wheels. There are four reasons professionals use a torque wrench:
1. Prevents stress to the threads which might not show up until the next time someone tries to remove the lug nuts.
2. Prevents warping rotors due to uneven clamping forces and the heating / cooling cycles.
3. Insures the wheels won't come lose, destroying the friction surface that the lug nut sits on.
4. A small adult will be able to get the lug nuts loose to change a flat tire.
Also, if you feel the need to put grease on the threads, use very little and do not use an impact gun to spin the nuts on. Too much grease will build up on the nut surface from centrifugal force and get onto the friction surface that keeps the nut tight. And absolutely do not use any type of anti-seize compound. The lug nuts WILL come loose. If we caught a student using anti-seize on lug nut studs, we made them wash it all off before the vehicle left the shop. If they did it a second time, ... Well, let's just say it never happened a second time. Many shop owners will fire employees for using anti-seize on studs. It will cause a guaranteed comeback, often on a tow truck, and could lead to a lawsuit.
After you do what ch112063 said to install the new studs, it would be a good idea to recheck the nut tightness on that wheel after a couple of days of driving. Sometimes the nuts feel tight but the studs didn't quite pull all the way in. Cornering forces will pull the studs in all the way if they were a little loose resulting in a loose nut.
Thursday, December 10th, 2009 AT 10:40 PM