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Stalls out while driving?

Tiny
TDILISIO
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I have a 2002 protege that I used to run until the gas tank was almost empty. The problem with that is condensation builds up on the inside of the metal tank causing rust. And the rust would settle to the bottom of the tank and get sucked onto the fuel pickup screen. And cause the engine to stop. As soon as the car was turned off, the suction from the fuel pump would release the debris back to the bottom of the tank, and the car would start right back up and go for a while until it happened again. I had a mechanic clean as much out as he could, and the problem never re-occured. In the 2002, theres an access cover under the back seat. The less fuel in the car when the mechanic gets to it. The easier it will be.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RSMART
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
Just back from 1200 mile trip with no problems. Then this week my Mazda has died after driving well for 15-20 minutes. All the usual red dash lights - oil, battery - come on and we coast to a stop. She turns over energetically but doesn't catch. When has stalled, usually I can start it again in 20 minutes to half an hour. Treated gas with service station 'engine cleaner' w no apparent effect. Battery has lots of juice, alternator is less than a year old, and no symptoms like dying radio, lights. Check engine light comes on - garage thought was dirty sensor and cleaned it - not the problem as happened again today.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark issue

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JSLACHETKA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 66,000 MILES
I have a 2003 Mazda Protege that stalls when the temperature outside is hot. This happens after driving for about 45 minutes. After I come to a stop the radio and the a/c drops out and the the car dies. The battery then appears dead. I have tested the battery and it has 11 volts after the stall. The engine starts again after a short jump and then drives fine.

These symptoms seem consistent with the ignition module getting warm and not working. But I have not read anything about the electrical system having low voltage with this problem.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
First battery voltage can be no lower than 12.45V. At 11V all relays and computer function failes. See if batt will charge up then have alternator checked.
Let me know the results
Thanks for donate
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,542 POSTS
  • 2002 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 150,000 MILES
When I am driving and I stop completely at a stop sign or red light and then proceed to accelerate, the car chokes up and sometimes dies. Also, sometimes while driving the brakes would randomly not work. The peddle does not go to the floor when that happens, it actually won't go down. Today, when I started the car it did start then instantly died, it did that twice. After that though it wouldn't even turnover. All the lights work as well as the remote lock so idk if it could be the battery. Some advice would be much appreciated!
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
The brake pedal would be hard to depress when the engine stalls.
Check the battery terminal connections, ensure they are clean and tight.
Check the fuses.
Have the battery and alternator tested.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARL AND ANGELA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 MAZDA PROTEGE
Engine Performance problem
2002 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

The above subject was posted on June 2, 2009 with a 2003 Mazada Protege. I am having the same problem with my 2002. Please let me know what it is that can be done to correct this problem.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KFONTENOT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
It's most likely the upper air intake hose. Mine did the same thing. It's a dealership part but not that expensive. Or you can do like me for the moment and duck tape it
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MOTLEY88
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
My preotege5 will shutter and feel like it's about to stall out but won't. This happens when stopped or when my foot comes off the accelerator (same almost stall-out feeling can come on start-up). After it almost stalls and I apply pressure to the accelerator it will not accelerate but the rpm gauge increases. Eventually it will pop out of this. It is an intermittent problem.

I have had a tough time trying to fix this. The garage I got to has done the following without success:
- spark plugs
- tune up (needed one anyway)
- Fl-1 (fuel induction kit)
- Hose/snorkle (vacuum tube)
- timing belt

man I need some help with this one. Huge pain.

Thanks
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Lack of acceleration, chugging, hesitating, bogging etc. Could be caused by one of the following below.

Inspect and test all the following listed below and get back with some results

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROTEGE2002
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 MAZDA PROTEGE
Electrical problem
2002 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Automatic 93000. Miles

Hi I was wondering if you would have a quick answer to my question. We have had a bit of wet weather lately and avoiding puddles isn't very easy. After driving my car through a bigger puddle than I had anticipated my wipers sped up considerably, followed by a sequence of events. My battery light came on, my engine light and my O/D light was flashing. I then came upon a red light and my car stalled. So I turned it back on and proceeded while the car was trying not to stall. I just figured that it was from all the water but it has been doing the same thing for a few days now. Is it possible that I need new wires, Battery or alternator?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Get the alternator and connections checked out-if tested okay start with the ignition components such as the distributor/coil/coil packs/camshaft and crankshaft sensor
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,542 POSTS
  • 2001 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 220,000 MILES
I was driving my car while ago and was running fine then I came upon a light and had to stop. When I pushed the clutch in the car died. I started it up and took off and while I was rolling I pushed the clutch in again and it died. Let off the clutch and it started again. Also I will be driving and all of a sudden the battery light will come on and stay on for a minute or two and go out again. This happens about once a week.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You have an issue with the idling. Have it checked for a vacuum leak. It cold also be a idle control valve as well.

Is the check engine light on?

Roy
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREENEYEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 2.0L
  • 16,256 MILES
My car began sluggishness while noving lik wanting to stall. And s gawd awful noise. I see that the outside tension is wobbling timeingbelt on?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check belt and tensioner as recommended replacement is 60,000 mi. Might be your noise, then scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KALIN1021
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 140,000 MILES
I have a 2001 Mazda Protege and I hit a median curb about 6 this morning and blew out both my front left and rear left tire and rims and immediately after I hit the curb my car cut off and will not turn back on. This was early this morning and I have been periodically going to try to start it again and it does not start. It sounds like it is trying to start but does not start. I was told to look in my trunk under the carpet on the left and right side for a button but I could not find any buttons. I am a single mom and that is my only means of transportation. PLEASE HELP!
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
I do believe the fuel pump inertia switch is just behind the right kick panel. It should have a button on it push it and see if it starts.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KALIN1021
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you I will try that first thing in the morning
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)

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