Cylinder head temperature sensor replacement?

Tiny
EXPANDING EXPLORERS
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 248,000 MILES
Citing all possible symptoms and circumstances as I noticed them.
First, left the key on and in the ignition which drained the battery. Jumped it and started fine, let run for 35 minutes. Two days later it cranks over fine but continues to crank having a hard time starting. I push the pedal a bit for motivation, it starts. Does this every time it starts with each time starting harder eventually I notice smoke from tailpipe probably because of the depressed pedal for start. A day or two after initial hard start I noticed the instrument cluster temp sensor not climb as I knew it should. In fact it had not moved other then it's initial movement with the key.
Up until this point there have been no dash indicators, so I slept on it. Next day start it to drive and the red water temperature light stayed on abnormally long before it shut off maybe a total of 1 or 2 minutes. Driving again and still no response from the in dash gauge. This leads me to believe with it's old age and not having it from new it might be time to change some sensors. Is there a more simple solution then changing every sensor. Current plan of action is to change thermostat, ect and cht. I'm having trouble and seeing mixed data on where both ect and cht are located for this 2007 E-series 5.4.
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Friday, February 12th, 2021 AT 3:37 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Here is what I believe is happening:

First, the idea that you need to press the throttle for it to start indicates to me that the vehicle is flooded. When you press the pedal on this vehicle, it shuts down the injectors to clear a flooded engine.

Next, the idea that you saw smoke indicates a rich fuel mixture. Was the smoke black? If it was, that supports what I said about a flooded engine.

The idea that the temp gauge isn't working is the final part. The cylinder head temp sensor is used by the computer to determine the air fuel mixture delivered to the engine. If it is stuck on cold, it could be telling the computer it's -40 F which would demand a very rich fuel mixture to run the engine. I suspect you are not in those conditions.

_______________

Here is what I suggest: The easiest thing to do is to get a live data scan tool and see what the temp sensor is indicating. The temp should be close to the ambient temp outside. If it stays cold, replace the sensor.

I attached a pic of it's location (pic 1). It may require the removal of the intake manifold to access. You will need to check if it is accessible on a van.

If you need to remove the intake, here are the directions. The remaining pics correlate with the directions. I don't recommend going to this much trouble unless you confirm the sensor is bad.

____________________________________________

2007 Ford Truck E 150 V8-5.4L
Removal and Installation
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Intake Manifold Service and Repair Procedures Removal and Installation
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Intake Manifold - 5.4L

Material
pic 2

pic 3

pic 4

Removal

WARNING: Do not smoke or carry lighted tobacco or open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

WARNING: Fuel in the fuel system remains under high pressure even when the engine is not running. Before servicing or disconnecting any of the fuel lines or fuel system components, the fuel system pressure must be relieved to prevent accidental spraying of fuel, causing personal injury or a fire hazard. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

1. Remove the engine cover.
2. Disconnect the fuel supply tube spring lock coupling. For additional information, refer to Fuel Delivery and Air Induction.
3. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Battery.
4. Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System.
5. Remove the throttle body (TB) spacer. For additional information, refer to Fuel Delivery and Air Induction.
6. Compress and slide the hose clamp and disconnect the upper radiator hose.
7. Disconnect the coolant hose.

pic 5

8. Remove the 3 bolts and the generator upper support bracket.
9. Remove the transmission fluid indicator and tube support bracket bolt.

pic 6

10. Remove the nut and position the transmission fluid indicator and tube aside.

pic 7

11. Disconnect the evaporative emissions (EVAP) tube quick connect coupling from the LH valve cover. For additional information, refer to Fuel Delivery and Air Induction.
12. If equipped, disconnect the auxiliary heater hoses and position aside. For additional information, refer to Heating and Air Conditioning.

pic 8

13. Disconnect the quick connect couplings and remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) tube. For additional information, refer to Fuel Delivery and Air Induction.
14. Disconnect the fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor vacuum hose and the electrical connector.

pic 9

15. NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.

Disconnect the 8 ignition coil electrical connectors.

pic 10

16. NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.

Disconnect the 8 fuel injector electrical connectors.

pic 11

17. Remove the 8 bolts and the 8 ignition coils.
18. Remove the 2 bolts, the thermostat housing and the thermostat.
Discard the O-ring seal.
19. Remove the 9 bolts, the intake manifold assembly and discard the intake manifold gaskets.

pic 12

Installation

1. CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges which can cause leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to clean sealing surfaces.

Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces with silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging.
2. Position new intake manifold gaskets, the intake manifold and loosely install the 9 bolts.
3. Using a new O-ring seal, install the thermostat.

pic 13

4. NOTE: The thermostat housing bolts are tightened in sequence with the intake manifold bolts.

Loosely install the thermostat housing and the 2 bolts.

pic 14

5. Tighten the 11 bolts in 2 stages in the sequence shown.
Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 inch lbs).
Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs).

pic 15

6. Install the 8 ignition coils and the 8 bolts.
Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs).

7. NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.

Connect the 8 fuel injector electrical connectors. Position the PCV tube and connect the quick connect couplings. For additional information, refer to Fuel Delivery and Air Induction.

pic 16

8. NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.

Connect the 8 ignition coil electrical connectors.

pic 17

9. Connect the fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor vacuum hose and electrical connector.

pic 18

10. Position the PCV tube and connect quick connect couplings. For additional information, refer to Fuel Delivery and Air Induction.
11. If equipped, connect the auxiliary heater hoses. For additional information, refer to Heating and Air Conditioning.

pic 19

12. Position the transmission fluid indicator and tube and install the retaining nut.
Tighten to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs).

pic 20

13. Install the transmission fluid filler tube support bracket bolt.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs).

pic 21

14. Install the generator upper support bracket and the 3 bolts.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs).
15. Connect the coolant hose.

pic 22

16. Connect the upper radiator hose.
17. Position the crankcase ventilation tube and connect quick connect coupling to the LH valve cover. For additional information, refer to Fuel Delivery and Air Induction.

pic 23

18. Install the TB spacer. For additional information, refer to Fuel Delivery and Air Induction.
19. Connect the fuel supply tube spring lock coupling. For additional information, refer to Fuel Delivery and Air Induction.
20. Install the engine cover.
21. Connect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Battery.
22. Fill and bleed the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System.

_____________________________
Before doing this, again, confirm it is bad. If it checks good, then we should check fuel pressure next.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 12th, 2021 AT 5:33 PM
Tiny
EXPANDING EXPLORERS
  • MEMBER
Quick update, code kicked the light on this morning p1289 confirm both your and my assumption of cylinder head sensor. I will attempt replacement without removing intake. I will update my efforts or struggles. An additional question is, engine coolant temperature a maintenance item I have it in my possession and have a mind to replace. Even if it's not a maintenance item would you be so kind to provide its location and procedures as well. I appreciate what you do and this site as whole it's a blessing.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, February 13th, 2021 AT 9:50 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

It doesn't have a traditional ECT. The cylinder head temp sensor is what needs replaced. As far as a traditional, if it does have one, it may be on the radiator itself, but I think it has just the CHT. Maybe that is what you have.

Let me know.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, February 13th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links