Engine Vibration

If the ECM were an issue, wouldn't there be check engine codes? The check engine light is not on and the car seems to idle fine in park and neutral.

Thanks for the responses. I will try to get a video this weekend when there is some natural light.

I was having trouble uploading videos, so I have included links below.

Here is a close up of the repair from the engine compartment:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1joh3IScye0ZIrfO6iV6nmmU8vsjY7mVD/view?usp=sharing

Here is a video with the car idling in park:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=11Zl_Wnk9yooymuk3t9sq1Fyz8I2fGxQg

Here is a video with the car in reverse. I took it with my new phone. The engine/exhaust is actually shaking but I think the video smooths it out where is looks more like swaying. Sorry I am not familiar with how to change the settings.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e9q5XPtEx9M0MVLNdXRBgxzuoYBMQ7lp

I have a code reader. I can check for what was described above tomorrow.

I was wondering about the length being the issue. Over the weekend I ordered the correct entire flex pipe through on online order which I received yesterday. I was going to compare it to the installed pipe to see if that was an issue. I also thought that the weld looked like garbage. In the photo you can see it has a crack.

A few years back the shop installed a full dual exhaust for my 1970 Torino GT. They did a great job. I suspect the shop has been sold since the manager that was there for many years was not there when I took the Fusion in.

I will report back.

I can finally report an update.

I was avoiding the repair since I don't have a garage available and the driveway is pretty cold here in Michigan. But I remembered that my brother has a lift in his garage and it is heated. (What a blessing!)

The good news. I was able to replace the flex pipe without breaking any bolts or other frustration. I was also able to get a refund from the repair shop. The new flex pipe resolved the extreme vibration when the transmission was engaged.

The bad news. When the engine idles in park/neutral it is smooth and when the engine has not come up to full operating temperature the car idles pretty smoothly for a four cylinder at about 900 rpm in reverse/drive. However, when the engine gets to full operating temperature the idle drops to around 600-650 rpm and I have a vibration. (It is not as bad as what I was experiencing with the original flex pipe fix.) Still, it is noticeable enough that is is annoying.

FYI, when replacing the flex pipe I did not anticipate needing to remove the exhaust manifold but it was necessary since the upper flex pipe nuts where not accessible without removing the exhaust manifold with the flex pipe as one unit. When removed together, I could replace the flex pipe. As a result, I did not have a new exhaust manifold gasket or new studs which I have read is the proper procedure after removal. I don't know if this could contribute to the idle issue.

While this is an improvement overall, I am still not satisfied with how the car runs currently. Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

After I wrote my update, the car idled very well over the weekend. I was pleased. Today it seemed more like it had been. Confusing.

I don't think that I will spend $400.00 for the dial indicator in the instructions. Looking at replacement parts I could replace the whole balance assembly for under $200.00.

I assume this assembly is at the bottom of the engine. Does the engine need to be pulled to check or replace the balance shaft?