Vehicle will not crank

Tiny
JOHN EAKINS
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 DODGE CHARGER
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 300,000 MILES
A few days ago I went to start my car to go to work. It cranked but would not start, I noticed my fuel light was in and the gauge read empty.I assumed somebody has siphon the gas out of it, seeing as how it had a half of tank when I went to bed the night before, I put gas in and nothing changed, I checked the fuel pump relay and fuse, both were fine, so I removed the seat to inspect the pump, when I pulled the electrical connection gas started pouring out of it. I disconnected the battery, and removed the top of the pump, only to discover that the wires had burnt a hole into it, I replaced the pump, connected the battery and primed the system and tried to start it. No crank, all the lights gauges accessories worked but no crank. First I checked the anti-theft system, that was not the issue, the check engine light has always been on, for an oxygen sensor, I used my OBD2 and pulled the codes, nothing new, I pulled and visually inspected all fuses in vehicle and tested them with my meter, all were good, I tested all the the relays in the vehicle, all had about 72 ohms, all functioned properly and had continuity between leg 30 and 87/87a. Then I checked the starter by jumping the wires, it turned over and started properly. Next I tested the starter relay location, I had constant power at terminal 30, but no power on 85 or 86 (somebody was holding the key in the start position when I tested it), I then checked the the ignition switch and the actuator pin, both were in good working condition, I have power going to and leaving the switch. I inspected the transmission shifter and cable thinking it was the transmission range sensor. Everything checked out, I checked for continuity between the fuse box and PCM through the yellow wire and green/orange wire, both were good. I called the dealership, and they said it could be the key, I had it tested, it failed, I had a lock Smith come by and make/program a new key. Did not work, I have checked every possible ground connection on the vehicle, and cleaned all that needed it, all grounds have less than 2 ohms, I tested all power connections and all had less than 3 ohms. I have done everything I can think of except checking continuity of the wire leaving the ignition switch. I have not been able to find a valid wiring diagram that says where the ignition switch wire (hot on start) goes to from the switch, it does nit seem to go directly to the pcm and if it does, the wire color must have changed because there are no wires at the pcm that match the wires at the ignition switch. Also the right side daytime driving light and the high beam do not work, there is no power coming to the wires, there is continuity between the light and pcm, the left side works fine, though, I am worried the pcm might be bad, but I was to exhaust every possible thing before I condemn it, any ideas as to what it could be or what I could do to figure it out?
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Sunday, May 7th, 2017 AT 9:33 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Testing relays is a major time waster. Just swap a suspect relay with one of the other ones like it. The contacts you tested are rarely used in any application.

At the starter relay, constant 12 volts on terminal 30 is correct. You should have had 12 volts on terminal 85 with the ignition switch in the "crank" position. Double-check fuse 10, a 5-amp, then check for 12 volts on both sides of it when in the "crank" position. If you still find 0 volts there, check on the pink / dark green wire on terminal 4 of the ignition switch connector. Check that connector for signs of two terminals that are blackened, or the connector body is melted.
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Sunday, May 7th, 2017 AT 10:58 PM
Tiny
JOHN EAKINS
  • MEMBER
I know checking them was a waste of time but I did it so I would not leave any stones un-turned, also I want to thank you so so much, I went through all that trouble just for you to tell me about #10 for some odd reason that fuse was missing, when I checked them I took them out one at a time and put them in the same place that I took them out of, I have no idea why it was not there and it has not been there from the beginning, I even took pictures of the fuse boxes before I ever tested anything so I knew where they went to prevent something like that, I couldn't find any fuse diagrams online, just relays, you are a life saver I am extremely grateful.
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Sunday, May 7th, 2017 AT 11:45 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
So are you saying it cranks now with the fuse in place?
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Monday, May 8th, 2017 AT 12:06 AM
Tiny
JOHN EAKINS
  • MEMBER
Yes, cranks and runs perfect, it still bothers me though that it stopped starting in the first place, I never got near the fuse box when before or after changing the fuel pump, so I'm not sure why or how the fuse just disappeared
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Monday, May 8th, 2017 AT 12:20 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I Do not have an answer for that one. I am just happy it is solved.
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Monday, May 8th, 2017 AT 12:22 AM
Tiny
JOHN EAKINS
  • MEMBER
Neither do i, but so I am I, I really can not thank you enough, you would not happen to have a fuse layout for the front and rear power distribution centers would you?
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Monday, May 8th, 2017 AT 12:27 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
All I can find is a listing of the fuse numbers and their circuits. No picture showing the locations. It would appear that's top secret. There is a reference to a third fuse box in the trunk.
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Monday, May 8th, 2017 AT 12:40 AM
Tiny
JOHN EAKINS
  • MEMBER
Well is there anything way I can get the fuse circuit list from you for future referencing? And that is strange I have torn apart the trunk with no discovery of a second fuse box back there, just the one adjacent to the batter
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Monday, May 8th, 2017 AT 12:45 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I am using the Mitchel On Demand web site for online service manuals. It will not let me copy and paste anything. I can do that with some of their line drawings, but not written information. Darn the bad luck! My best suggestion would be to buy a subscription for just your car, then print off anything you want to.

Next would be to visit the Dodge dealer's parts department to buy a service manual. They come on CDs now, and the few I've used at a friend's body shop are very tedious. It takes a real long time to find stuff and scroll to it, and you have to constantly bounce between multiple pages. I love paper manuals that I can put notes and book marks in.

Also, the fuse layouts should be in the owner's manual. If yours is missing, you can find one at a salvage yard.
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Monday, May 8th, 2017 AT 1:03 AM
Tiny
JOHN EAKINS
  • MEMBER
Damn, well it was worth a shot, I may get a service manual, it could really come in handy in the future. But I really do thank you so so much you have been a tremendous help.
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Monday, May 8th, 2017 AT 1:22 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Come back and see us again.
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Monday, May 8th, 2017 AT 7:30 PM

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