After installing replacement parts; re-manufactured valve body with shift solenoid, car will not start

Tiny
CAROL CHEKZ YOMZSYABZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 MAZDA 2
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 141,672 MILES
I just bought a re-manufactured valve body with shift solenoid to replace the old one's on my car. However, after changing it the gear light on the dash is not showing and the car wont start, only cranks. What could be the issue?
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Monday, October 14th, 2019 AT 12:47 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros.

First, this model isn't offered in the US, so my technical information is extremely limited. However, the shift indicator on the dash is powered by what is called a transmission range sensor. This sensor is usually mounted to the side of the transmission and sends a signal of the selected gear to the PCM then the indicator in the vehicle.

Since the transmission valve body was recently repaired, I suspect something was left disconnected or damaged related to the range sensor.

The closest thing I have to this vehicle is a Mazda 3. I will attach the directions for removal and replacement of the transmission range sensor. It should at least be similar enough to help you determine if there is an issue.

Here are the directions. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

________________________________________

2004 Mazda 3 L4-2.0L
Transaxle Range (TR) Switch Removal/Installation

1. Remove the battery duct and battery cover.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the under cover.

Caution: Water or foreign material entering the connector can cause a poor connection or corrosion. Be sure not to drop water or foreign material on the connector when disconnecting it.

Pic 1

4. Disconnect the TR switch connector.
5. Remove the clip and disconnect the selector cable.

Caution: Do not use an impact wrench. Hold the manual shaft lever when removing the manual shaft nut, or the transaxle may be damaged.

Pic 2

6. Set the adjustable wrench as shown in the figure to hold the manual shaft lever.
7. Remove the manual shaft nut and washer.

Pic 3

8. Remove the manual shaft lever.
9. Remove the TR switch.

Pic 4

10. Rotate the manual shaft to the converter housing side fully, then return two notches to set the N position.

Pic 5

pic 6

11. Turn the protrusion between the TR switch terminals B and C until the resistance becomes 750 ohms.

Pic 7

12. Install the TR switch while aligning the protrusion and groove as shown in the figure.
13. Hand-tighten the TR switch mounting bolts.

Pic 8

14. Inspect the resistance between the TR switch terminals B and C. If there is any malfunction, readjust the TR switch.
Resistance 750 ohms
15. Tighten the TR switch mounting bolts.
Tightening torque 8 - 11 Nm (82 - 112 kgf-cm, 71 - 97 inch lbs.)

Caution: Do not use an impact wrench. Hold the manual shaft lever when removing the manual shaft nut, or the transaxle may be damaged.

Pic 9

16. Install the manual shaft lever and the washer.

Pic 10

17. Set the adjustable wrench as shown in the figure to hold the manual shaft lever, and tighten the manual shaft nut.
Tightening torque 31.4 - 46.1 Nm (3.2 - 4.7 kgf-m, 23.2 - 33.9 ft. Lbs.)

pic 11

18. Install the clip to the selector cable as shown in the figure.
19. Shift the selector lever to P position.
20. Turn the manual shaft lever to P position.

Pic 12

21. Connect the selector cable.
22. Inspect for continuity at the TR switch. If there is any malfunction, readjust the TR switch.
23. Connect the TR switch connector.
24. Install the under cover.
25. Connect the negative battery cable.
26. Install the battery duct and battery cover.
27. Inspect operation of the TR switch. If there is any malfunction, readjust the TR switch.

_______________________

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, October 15th, 2019 AT 6:41 PM
Tiny
CAROL CHEKZ YOMZSYABZ
  • MEMBER
HI,
Thanks for the feedback. We found some loose connections and pushed them in properly and the car started properly, however, the problem that made us buy the valve body and solenoids is still there;
1. The gearbox engages very hard, making the whole car shake when engaged from park (P), Neutral (N) to drive (D) and from the first gear to the second.
2. The same for reverse (R).
3. Gearbox only engages up to the second gear, cant engage 3 and 4.
4. The "hold" light on the dash keeps flashing.
5. Check engine light on.
6. The car stalls when revving above 3, 000 RPM.

Any ideas?
We put in another working gearbox and the same problem persisted.
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Thursday, October 17th, 2019 AT 2:26 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

A hard gear engagement can often be caused by line pressure. Was the torque converter replaced at the same time you installed the gear box? I hate to say this, but I have nothing on line pressure specs for this model. If you can get info for this specific vehicle, I would check that. On the model 3, there is pressure control solenoid which controls hydraulic pressure. The pressure control solenoid controls the hydraulic pressure according to the current value. I have no way to even determine if that is the case on your vehicle. Sorry about that. I'm trying.

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, October 17th, 2019 AT 7:35 PM
Tiny
CAROL CHEKZ YOMZSYABZ
  • MEMBER
Hi Joe,
Thanks for the reply, really appreciate it! The Mazda 3 and 2 should use the same gearbox 4F27E, we never changed the torque converter, where is the pressure control solenoid and would it also affect the gearbox not shifting into fourth and fifth gear? What about the hold light that keeps flashing on my dash, any ideas what could cause that?
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Monday, October 21st, 2019 AT 1:15 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:
Here are the directions for replacement on the Mazda 3. Let me know if they help. It is on the valve body. See the attached pictures.

2004 Mazda 3 L4-2.0L
Solenoid Valve Removal/Installation
Vehicle Powertrain Management Transmission Control Systems Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain Actuators and Solenoids - A/T Pressure Regulating Solenoid Service and Repair Procedures Solenoid Valve Removal/Installation
SOLENOID VALVE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
SOLENOID VALVE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
1. Remove the battery duct and battery cover:
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the under cover.
4. Remove the control valve body.

Pic 1

5. Remove the solenoid valve (s).
6. Apply ATF to a new O-ring and install it on the solenoid valve.

Pic 2

7. Install the solenoid valve in the control valve body.
Tightening torque 7.8 - 10.8 Nm (80 - 110 kgf-cm, 69.5 - 95.4 inch lbs.)
8. Install the control valve body.
9. Install the under cover.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
11. Install the battery duct and battery cover.
12. Add ATF and, with the engine idling, inspect the ATF level and inspect for leakage.
13. Perform the mechanical system test.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe
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Monday, October 21st, 2019 AT 6:23 PM

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