Brake bleeding sequence

Tiny
KATWIGS
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 TOYOTA COROLLA
My son drove with the brake needed to be bled did he hurt anything? Please let me know how to do the job.
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Monday, November 9th, 2009 AT 9:27 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Bleeding the brake system isn't too difficult, but you will need two people to perform the procedure. Make sure never to reuse old fluid. Once it is out of the system, dispose of it.

First, here is a link that explains how it is done. Also, here is a video in the link that is very specific:Here is a video and guide below to help you bleed the brake system correctly.

https://youtu.be/w7gUsj2us0U

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

and

https://youtu.be/WDxvEQrMkBg

Please run down these guides and report back.

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle:

PROCEDURES
BRAKE FLUID

BLEEDING

NOTICE: Wash brake fluid off immediately if it adheres to any painted surface.

HINT: If any work is performed on the brake system or if air in the brake lines is suspected, bleed the air out of the brake system.

1. FILL RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID
(a) Fill reservoir with brake fluid.
Fluid: SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3
2. BLEED MASTER CYLINDER

HINT: If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air out of the master cylinder.

(a) Using SST, disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder sub-assembly.
SST 09023-00101

(b) Procedure A
(1) Slowly depress and hold the brake pedal.

(2) Cover the outer holes with your fingers, and release the brake pedal.
(c) Repeat procedure A 3 or 4 times.
(d) Using SST, connect the brake lines to the master cylinder sub-assembly.
SST 09023-00101
Torque: 15 Nm (155 kgf-cm, 11 ft. lbs.)
3. BLEED BRAKE LINE
(a) Connect the vinyl tube to the bleeder plug.

(b) Procedure B
(1) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal depressed.
(2) When fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal.
(c) Repeat procedure B until all the air in the fluid is completely bled out.
(d) Tighten the bleeder plug completely.
Torque:
Front brake 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)
Rear brake 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)
(e) Repeat the above procedures for each wheel to bleed the air out of the brake line.
4. BLEED ABS & TRACTION ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY (w/ VSC)

NOTICE: After bleeding the air from the brake system, if the height or feel of the brake pedal cannot be obtained, perform air bleeding in the brake actuator assembly with the intelligent tester by following the procedures below.

(a) Depress the brake pedal more than 20 times with the engine off.

HINT: Let the vacuum pressure out from the brake booster assembly.

(b) Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3, and turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

NOTICE: Do not start the engine.

(c) Select "AIR BLEEDING" on the intelligent tester.

HINT: Please refer to the intelligent tester operator's manual for further details.

(d) Bleed the air out of the brake line as usual when "Step 1: Increase" appears on the intelligent tester display.

NOTICE:
Bleed the air by following the steps displayed on the intelligent tester.
Make sure that the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir tank does not become empty.

(1) Connect the vinyl tube to either one of the bleeder plugs.

(e) Procedure C
(1) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug connected to the vinyl tube with the pedal depressed.
(2) When fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug and release the brake pedal.
(f) Repeat procedure C until all air in the fluid is completely bled out.
(g) Tighten the bleeder plug completely.
Torque:
Front brake 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)
Rear brake 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)
(h) Repeat the above procedures for each wheel to bleed the air out of the brake line.
(i) Bleed the air out of the suction line when "Step 2: Inhalation" appears on the intelligent tester display.

NOTICE:
Bleed the air by following the steps displayed on the intelligent tester.
Make sure that the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir tank does not become empty.

(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the bleeder plug at the right front wheel or the right rear wheel and loosen the bleeder plug.
(j) Procedure D
(1) Operate the brake actuator assembly to bleed the air using the intelligent tester.

NOTICE: At this time, be sure to release the brake pedal.

HINT: This operation stops automatically after 4 seconds.

(2) Check if the operation has stopped by referring to the intelligent tester display.
(k) Repeat procedure D until all air in the fluid is completely bled out.
(l) Tighten the bleeder plug.
Torque:
Front brake 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)
Rear brake 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)
(m) Repeat the above procedures for the other wheels to bleed the air out of the brake line.
(n) Bleed the air out of the pressure reduction line when "Step 3: Decrease" appears on the intelligent tester display.

NOTICE:
Bleed the air by following the steps displayed on the intelligent tester.
Make sure that the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir tank does not become empty.

(1) Connect a vinyl tube to either one of the bleeder plugs.
(o) Procedure E
(1) Loosen the bleeder plug.

(2) Using the intelligent tester, operate the brake actuator assembly, completely depress the brake pedal and keep it.

NOTICE:
During this procedure, the pedal will feel heavy, but completely depress it so that the brake fluid comes out from the bleeder plug.
Be sure to keep depressing the brake pedal. Do not depress and release the pedal repeatedly.

HINT:
The operation stops automatically after 4 seconds. When performing this procedure continuously, set an interval of at least 20 seconds.
When the operation is complete, the brake pedal goes down slightly. This is a normal phenomenon caused when the solenoid opens.

(3) Tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal.
(p) Repeat procedure E until all the air in the fluid is completely bled out.
(q) Tighten the bleeder plug.
Torque:
Front brake 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)
Rear brake 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)
(r) Repeat the above procedures for the other wheels to bleed the air out of the brake line.
(s) Bleed the air out of the brake line as usual again when "Step 4: Increase" appears on the intelligent tester display.

NOTICE:
Bleed the air by following the steps displayed on the intelligent tester.
Make sure that the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir tank does not become empty.

(1) Connect the vinyl tube to either one of the bleeder plugs.

(t) Procedure F
(1) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug connected to the vinyl tube with the pedal depressed.
(2) When fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal.
(u) Repeat procedure F until all the air in the fluid is completely bled out.
(v) Tighten the bleeder plug.
Torque:
Front brake 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)
Rear brake 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)
(w) Repeat the above procedures for the other wheels to bleed the air out of the brake line.
(x) Make sure that the air bleeding is complete by referring to the intelligent tester display.

5. CHECK FLUID LEVEL IN RESERVOIR
(a) Check the fluid level and add fluid if necessary.
Fluid: SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3

Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.
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Saturday, March 13th, 2021 AT 9:18 PM
Tiny
KCKINGGARD
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 153,000 MILES
1) Can you explain in detail as to the location of the Brake Fluid Bleeder screws? From my understanding these need to be loosened to do a proper flush. Do I need to remove the wheel to have access to them? Again, this is for a 2003 Toyota Corolla.

2) Can you provide a detailed process for replacing the Automatic Transmission Fluid for a 2003 Toyota Corolla?
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 11:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MEMBER
Remove the wheel, the bleeder screws are on the inside on top of the caliper. Use a tubing wrench or 6pt. Socket to loosen. Attach a clear hose to bleeder screw and put in a bottle of clear brake fluid. Gently pump brakes until fluid runs clear and make sure the resivour does not run dry. Tighten bleeder screw.

Check your owners manual, the trans fluid should not require maint. If used under normal driving conditions.
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 11:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GARCIA0119
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 237,000 MILES
So I ve recently been having problems with my car I use to commute to work. It s about a 45 mile drive. Everyday now for the past few weeks I ve noticed that about 15-20 minutes into my drive my brakes seem to need a bleed. If anyone can help me diagnose this problem I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you.
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good morning,

I would start by have the brake fluid flushed. That is a required service at 50,000. If the fluid is old and breaking down, especially since it was sitting for 1 year, it could be the issue. You will need a pressure bleeder. You can rent one from a parts store. It forces fluid through the system making sure all the old fluid is removed and new fluid added.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Beyond that, you need to see which brakes are seizing up. The fronts are the most common. Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DREWSOME2
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 174,000 MILES
Totally confused here - replaced pads and shoes, master cylinder, and brake lines on my 96 Corolla. When I tried to bleed the brakes, could get air but next to no fluid at any of the bleeder valves. I could get a tiny bit of fluid at the LF, but not nearly as much as I should have been getting. Replaced the calipers, figuring the seals were cracked. Now I can get fluid on the RF and RR, but not on the LF, which I was getting fluid on before! And cannot get anything from the LR. Am I missing a step? I thought I was next to finished - bleeding was the last thing to do!
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MEMBER
You can bleed it. Bench bleed the master by getting brass plugs and screw them into the two ports, then pump the master until you cant move the piston any more. Attach the lines, Have an aide press and hold the pedal crack the lines and retighten, repeat this till all air is removed at the lines, Don't let the master run dry, bleed rear cylinders by opening the bleeders and wait until the fluid dripps out. Close bleeders. Make sure the rears are properly adjusted, then test the pedal hieght. This is a diagonal braking system, it means lf and rr are paired and rf, lr are paired off the master, not a front to back split. Bench bleed the master, install it, then open all bleeders, with cap off the master, the fluid will gravity bleed to the wheel, close bleeders as they drip fluid, then bleed in the normal fashion. DO NOT allow the master to run dry during blleding! Pump master gently and only 1/2 way! Damage to some masters occur when pused to the floor. USE DOT3 FLUID ONLY!
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MEMBER
Excellent advice by Merlin.

I would add that you MUST bench bleed the MC BEFORE initial install as Merlin describes.

If you do not, you can ruin the MC piston seal.

I have seen this happen many times, a "dry" MC installed, pedal depressed to floor and seal destroyed.
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Monday, March 29th, 2021 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)

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