Timing Belt Marks?

I don't think some people would like it if I recommend certain brands or bash certain store. But from personal experience, I like Cardone water pump, and Goodyear and Gates both make better belt and tensioner.

Hi there,

I have had these squeal when there is oil on the belt from a leaky front seal and cam seal, worth checking if pulling cover again.

Mark (mhpautos)

Hi there,

The cam belt drives the water pump as well, I think he is trying to sell you a water pump. Now you don't have to replace the pump because the belt is being changed, some people do, as it is there and easy to do with the front pulled down, but if it is not leaking and not noisy, you don't have to replace it.

Mark (mhpautos)

Not sure by what you mean by "reset". The timing belt is mechanical, if it were installed incorrectly (one tooth off), you would have some valve noise.

The crankshaft timing mark aligned, along with the camshafts timing mark (TDC #1), you then install the belt.

The ECM can be reset by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a minute or two, but if the timing belt was installed incorrectly, it would make no difference.

You would reset the computer if you were installing a new TPS (throttle position sensor). You would do this to reset the TPS voltage at closed throttle value.

A loose timing belt can cause the timing to slip, both ignition and valve timing. It won't cause noise in the valvetrain, unless it's slipped enough to be causing the pistons to be slapping the valves.
A noisy valvetrain is usually caused by valves that need adjusting, or inadequate lubrication of the valvetrain. How long has it been since you changed the oil, and what weight do you specify/use?

Pull the timing cover and verify that the timing marks line up properly. Make sure the belt tension is correct (.2-.24 inches of deflection, max, with 4.4lbs of pressure applied). If not, re-tension the belt if you can. Otherwise replace the belt and tension it properly.

Uh, yeah. 50K. Those belts are screaming for a change.

If you've got a long extension, or other solid piece of metal, start the car and hold it against the valve cover with the upper end against your ear. Listen carefully for clicking, clattering or tapping sounds.
Next hold it against the alternator. Does the sound you heard get louder?
Next, move it as close to the water pump as you can get it and listen.
One of these will have a sound that duplicates what you're hearing through the air. It will identify the offending component.
5w30 is perfect.
Please come back and let us know what you find.

It could be the bearings, but usually that'll be a knocking type sound.
Some part stores have tool loaner/rental programs. See if one near you has an oil pressure tester. Otherwise, you can install a $10 gauge. Or, remove the oil pressure sending unit and the coil wire, and then crank the engine over while watching the sending unit orifice for oil flow. BUT, that method won't tel you how much pressure there is. For that, you'll need a gauge.

$400 to $600 is the price range. Make sure yu replace the tensioner when you do. If the belt drives the water pump replace it also. That puts it over $800