'93 Camry went dead. Won't start

Tiny
MRFOMOCO
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 TOYOTA CAMRY
1993 Camry V6 went dead while accelatering from stop light. No sputter. Nothing. My daughter was driving so I don't have all details. However after getting it home it turns over fine but nothing, won't even fire once. Could this be the fuel pump? If so where is it? Or is it an ignition problem? How do I check for either problem?
Sunday, July 16th, 2006 AT 12:44 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Maybe its cause by a run away timing belt-meaning it jumped timing

Disconnect one spark plug wire and crank it over while looking for spark.

Do you hear the pump humming underneath for 2sec's

Also check the EFI fuse
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Monday, July 17th, 2006 AT 6:58 AM
Tiny
MRFOMOCO
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  • 3 POSTS
Well, I checked for spark and nothing. All of the fuses that I can check look good. What could cause no spark?
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Saturday, July 22nd, 2006 AT 10:16 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Where r u checking at, the coil wire or the plug end.

If you have it at the coil and not on the plug end, change the cap and rotor its no good. If you don't have it at the coil-check for power at the positive terminal, power there its the Ignitor. You need to change the whole distributor assembly.
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Saturday, July 22nd, 2006 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
MIKEYBDMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 623 POSTS
Hold on a sec.A lot of trouble shooting needs to be done before you start replacing expensive parts.
First, if you have no spark, check the connectors on the distrubuter for loosness or corrosion.
Check power supply to the ignition coil. Turn on the ignition switch, and check if there is battery voltage at the ignition coil (+) terminal. If not, suspect ignition switch. If good voltage, check the resistance of the ignition coil. Resistance cold should be Primary 0.4-0.5 ohms and secondary 10.2-14.3 ohms. If good check resistance of the signal generator pickup coil. Resistance cold should be G+ and G- 185-265 ohms NE+ and NE- 370-530 ohms.
If this is good check for air gap of the distributor. Should be 0.2-0.4mm (0.008-0.016 in).
If that is good, check IGT signal from ECU.

Judging by the symptoms, it does sound like a bad coil, but its always best to trouble shoot.
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Saturday, July 22nd, 2006 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
MRFOMOCO
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I know this sounds crazybut I can't seem to find the coil. I used to working on old fashioned domestic vehicles. Hence the MrfoMoCo(Ford Motor Co.). Any advice would be appreciated. Is there is chance that htis could be a fuel related issue?
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Saturday, August 5th, 2006 AT 10:24 AM
Tiny
MIKEYBDMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 623 POSTS
Looks like it is mounted to the left fender well with a plug on the top. Here is a resistance check to test the coil.

Inspect Primary Coil Resistance

Using an ohmmeter. Measure the resistance between the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals.
Primary resistance: 0.21 - 0.32 ohms

If the resistance is not as specified. Replace the ignition coil.
Checking Secondary Resistance

Inspect Secondary Coil Resistance

Using an ohmmeter. Measure the resistance between the positive (+) and high-tension terminals.
Secondary resistance: 6.4 - 10.7 k ohms
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Monday, August 7th, 2006 AT 1:45 PM

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