Engine Performance problem
1999 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 107000 miles
I have a cold starting problem with this 99, 4 cyl Camry. Intermittent initially but becoming more of a problem with the weather getting colder. I did basic tune up, cleaned and replaced a battery connection with no improvement. Battery voltage good. Car would start readily with starter fluid and run fine. MIL out, and PCM has no codes. Warm starts are fine. Tested fuel pump and regulator. Pressure good and held for appropriate time. Changed fuel filter. Changed Coolant Temp sensor and seemed to improve but now colder overnight temps problem is back. Today couldn't start with starter spray. California emission, so I believe there is no MAF or cold start fuel injector on this car. Now instead of a lean fuel condition on start up, I'm starting to think this may be an ignition problem. Like I said the car runs great when I can start it, including good performance on the road.
We need to make sure you and I are on the same page so I am gonna need a little more info if that's okay.
First is your Camry a CE, LE, Solara SE or XLE?
Next, a basic tune up. Did that include new plugs, plug wires, air filter?
Battery voltage good - did you have a draw test done on it?
Please do me a favor, please go to Auto Zone or O'Reilly's and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. I know you did this but have them check once more. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don't get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. Very big, while there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery, alternator and starter.
We need to figure out if it is electrical or fuel related. Pull a plug wire off of the spark plug and insert something into the end of it and have someone try to start the car and have the metal object really close to a piece of metal on the engine and see if you are getting a good strong popping blue spark. Don't have your hands on any part of the metal! If there is no spark, then it is electrical. If you are getting good spark then you need to get a fuel pressure check on the fuel pump to ensure it is putting out okay. You have already said you checked the fuel pressure - do you remember what it was so when you give me the correct model vehicle I can compare it?
Please do the above and let's take it from there.
November, 21, 2008 AT 3:40 PM
It's a LE. Changed plugs wires and plugs. Battery new with new ground to block and frame. Fuel press 46 psi and held for 5 min. Collent temp sens new. Coil pack bank 1 new. Air filter new. Tryed again today to start car, no luck. Turns over fine. Plugs wet with gas after attempt. Checked Crank position sensor for ohms and got a " open" reading. I got a sticker 2 wks ago after I changed the coolent temp sensor. Car ran fine until 1 week later. Mass Insp computer showed no codes also. I use same scanner as Autozone. I'm going to change crank position sens Sat. If this dosen't work I'm really stumped.
November, 22, 2008 AT 2:14 AM
The crank sensor cold should read between 985-1600 ohms of resistance. Also, the car will crank with a bad sensor but it will not start.
I am with you - - change the crank sensor.
November, 23, 2008 AT 12:38 AM
Consider the ISC or idle speed control motor. It is connected to the throttle body and sets idle air according to coolant temp. These can gum up causing cold start problems.
November, 26, 2008 AT 4:02 PM
Problem solved. It was the crank position sensor. When I took the old one out, I found the wire had a wear spot and a small break. Started with first turn with new sensor. I still don't know why I didn't a check engine light or a code in the PCM. Thanks for the idea toyotech, I've run into that before.
February, 3, 2009 AT 3:44 PM
I have the same problem currently with my 1999 Toyota Camry CE. No engine light, but have trouble cold starting it.
I took it to autozone and had the battery (incidently, a new one), alternator and starter tested - all three turned out to be good - the technician couldn't find anything wrong with it. Unlike johnmae18, I am not as well versed with car repairs, so would it be possible to explain in layman terms where the crank position sensor is so I can check it?
Sorry so long to get to you. This post was closed. It is very important that when you join that you enter a new - separate post for your vehicle for several reasons.
One - I have been out of town so there is no visibility that you had or have a problem - thus you don't get an answer.
Next - there are numerous outstanding moderators that work all the posts and if they don't have visibility, then again, our customers, you in this case either don't get help or it is delayed.
Last - we keep the posts separate for one of the exact reasons you joined.....so others can benefit from the problems of others and learn from it and possible fix their car. That way we can help many more people without really answering them. If you are attached to this one then folks won't benefit if your problem is different.
Okay........let's take a look
Good on you for taking it to AZ and getting the items checked. Even though you didn't have an engine light did you have the codes checked? Sometimes the light can go on/off and set a code. So please do that.
Next - here is the info on the Crank sensor per your request.
1. Crankshaft position sensor is located behind lower timing belt cover, near crankshaft sprocket. See Fig. 26 .
2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect electrical connectors at generator. Remove accessory drive belt and generator. Raise and support vehicle. Remove passenger's side front wheel and passenger's side lower engine cover for access to crankshaft pulley.
3. Support engine with hoist to release pressure from front (timing belt end) engine mount. Remove front (timing belt end) engine mount insulator-to-engine mount bracket bolts/nuts. Remove bolts/nuts and power steering reservoir for access to front (timing belt end) engine mount assembly.
4. Remove bolts/nuts and front (timing belt end) engine mount insulator. Remove bolts and front (timing belt end) engine mount bracket from front of cylinder block for access to timing belt cover.
5. Remove bolts, upper timing belt cover and gaskets. Remove crankshaft pulley bolt. Using puller, remove crankshaft pulley.
6. Disconnect wiring harness for crankshaft position sensor from clamps on lower timing belt cover. Remove bolts, lower timing belt cover and gasket. Disconnect electrical connector for crankshaft position sensor. Remove bolt and crankshaft position sensor.
February, 9, 2009 AT 9:01 AM
Thanks a lot for your detailed reply. I'll take it to Autozone again and ask them to run the codes like you advised.
I apologise for not making a separate post. I found the problem that johnmae had to be similar to mine, hence didn't make a new one. Some of the other forums (not car forums, but other stuff) that I am a member of prefer to keep similar problems grouped up, hence me post adding on to his.
Thanks again for your response.
February, 9, 2009 AT 1:49 PM
Not a problem. Everyone has their system I guess. The main thing I do see if there are lots of folks trying to help lots of folks out there and that is a great thing.
I just needed you to know this system as I don't want you, the customer just sitting expecting something and never hearing from us because we didn't see it etc. Boy would that be a drag!