Replacing right CV axle

Tiny
OVERTHETOP
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 TOYOTA CAMRY
Drive Train Axles Bearings problem 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Right cv axel has been loosened from right side, lock bolt and snap ring have been removed from bearing support bracket. It should pull right out of the transaxle by now and it isn't moving. Am I missing something?
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Saturday, November 1st, 2008 AT 4:44 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
DSPLC
  • MEMBER
Yes. You need a long solid pry bar to separate the cv axle from the transmission. If you have a new cv axle, you should see an O ring clip on the shaft side which you insert it inside the transmission. The O ring metal clip is the lock so as the cv axle not to separate/ or the CV axle not from moving from it's place.

Here is a guide to show you how

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

Insert the pry bar between the transmission and the CV axle, and use a slight force prying so as to separate the cv axle.
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Tuesday, November 4th, 2008 AT 2:41 PM
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
Im actually working on a 99 Solara, but they are the same body.

On the passenger side the intermediate bar isnt sliding out of the trans like it should. Tried prying at it but all Ive managed so far is to bend the metal flange. Removed the round clip at the intermediate-axle, but the bearing assembly seems to be stuck in the mount.

Attempted to remove the mount from the body, along with the mount for the intermediate bar from the trans. No luck.

Any ideas?
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Sunday, November 9th, 2008 AT 4:20 PM
Tiny
DSPLC
  • MEMBER
You are right. On the passenger side axle, once you remove the lock bolt and spring clip, you should be able to remove the axle from the transmission.

I asked another mechanic and check some answers around. It is hard to remove the axle because the carrier bearing is seized inside the mount. He removed the mount that is attached to the engine block, pulled the whole axle with the mount still attached and got the bearing pressed out of the mount.

If ever you get the bearing out, put an anti-seized compund for future removal.
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Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 AT 3:18 PM
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
Alright, thanks, I guess I'll just continue to beat it with a hammer.
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Wednesday, November 12th, 2008 AT 8:28 AM
Tiny
NC01ZZ
  • MEMBER
I replaced both front axles on my 2001 Camry. I was about to give up on getting the old ones out and then learned of a device called a "slide hammer" also called an axle puller I think, that you can rent for free (by paying a refundable deposit) at Advance Auto or Autozone. It is a steel shaft with a heavy sliding weight used to jerk the axle out. It has a hook (one of many attachments included) to fit over whatever you can grab onto on the axle shaft. It will beat you to death, but it worked and I yanked both axles out with it. Good luck!
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Wednesday, November 12th, 2008 AT 7:11 PM
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
Wow, ok, that helps alot NC, I appreciate it. Didnt know they made such a thing (although thinking about it I should have guessed)

I spent yesterday hammering at it, with no joy then either. Im off to autozone this afternoon.

Thanks again!
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Thursday, November 13th, 2008 AT 8:49 AM
Tiny
NC01ZZ
  • MEMBER
Get your wife or girlfriend to hold the hook down on the axle (with a towel covering to protect her hand) and have her shout words of encouragement when it finally starts to move...


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/270422_DSCN4760_1.jpg

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Thursday, November 13th, 2008 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
Haha! Well I dont know about you NC, but I have friends who want to come over and help me work on my car. You know, that whole 'manly bonding' thing.

I havent gotten a chance to work on the car anymore or rent the ram in the last couple of days, been really busy, but I hope to accomplish this sometime next week.
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Saturday, November 15th, 2008 AT 7:52 AM
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
Well, got the ram, but I'm currently at an impasse.

Where am I supposed to attach the hooks/bracket? I cant attach it at the end of the transaxle, due to the intermediate bar and the uni joint. I would really not want to pull apart that uni joint...

I wish I had my engine in this state already! This is just a picture I found, but of the same engine. The highlighted part is the intermediate bar and the rest of the transaxle.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/268770_CarrierFit_1.jpg

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Saturday, November 22nd, 2008 AT 3:44 PM
Tiny
NC01ZZ
  • MEMBER
Circled in red is the hook attachment that worked for me.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/270422_Ram_1.jpg

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Saturday, November 22nd, 2008 AT 11:07 PM
Tiny
NC01ZZ
  • MEMBER
The red lines show where the hook could get a grip on my axles. It required a helper holding the hook in place while I operated the ram. I was replacing both axles with new ones, so I didn't care if I pulled the CV joints apart--and one did come apart. It helps to have the wheel hubs wired out of the way to give more room to work. It also required getting a little mad and ramming the #$%@$% things dozens of times!


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/270422_Grip_Points_3.jpg

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Saturday, November 22nd, 2008 AT 11:27 PM
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
I see.

Thank you very much NC, Im off to go try that.
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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 10:59 AM
Tiny
TOYOTECH
  • MEMBER
If you have a compressor and an air hammer with a hammer head bit you can hit the axle/motor mount and the axle shaft will literally walk itself out. If this is not an option and the original problem is in the outer cv joint, consider replacing half of the shaft separating the shaft at the six hex bolts. Use extreme caution if you go this way because moving that inner joint too far in or out will cause the big cv bearings to fall out. It can be put back together, but it can also be put back together incorrectly. Not an easy job. You will use every profanity in your arsenal.
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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
MB7
  • MEMBER
The older shafts/joints had the six hex bolts. Remove those, separate the inner joint, and attach an axle puller (the piece with 3 slots on one side and one on the other) with 2 of the bolts. May also need washers. Then attach the slide hammer and yank it out. If the slide hammer weight is not enough I used a 25lb metal barbell weight instead. This saves you from ruining the shaft and not getting your $75 core refund. The Toyota reman shaft assembly that I installed in 2006 did not have the bolts. After nothing else worked I plan to weld a 1/2 metal plate onto the inner joint surface (after removing the boot clamp and collar) with a 3/4 -16 nut welded onto the plate. The slide hammer will screw into the nut allowing the shaft and bearing to be removed from the mount.
When I did it the first time I polished up the bore with crocus cloth and then applied antiseize. But it still froze. I think I'll use synthetic grease this time.
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Saturday, March 10th, 2018 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
TERESA BLALOCK
  • MEMBER
I know this post was years ago but my husband just did the same exact job for his friends 1996 camry passenger side cv axle and after dislocating the joint at the inner boot he used a grinder with a cut off blade and had to cut the axle close to the bearing and then again about 4 or 5 inches from the transmission so he could slide the axle out of the trans. Then had to take the motor mount off and knock the bearing out with a 16 pound sledge hammer and it took him about 7 over the head swings to get it out. Definitely a design flaw by Toyota but after the bearing came out it was literally 30 minutes and he was driving it around the block. Hope this helps someone in the future.
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Friday, August 24th, 2018 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site. :)

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, August 25th, 2018 AT 11:52 AM

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