Strut springs installation?

Correct. The front struts are different only because of the mounting bracket for the brake hose, but the springs are the same on both sides.

Don't use any grease on the bottom by the two lower bolt holes. That lower one is elongated to allow for "camber" adjustment. Many original GM struts had to have that hole ground out to allow for that adjustment. It didn't come from the factory with any means of adjustment. If you use the original bolts, if there's grease in there or the bolts aren't tight enough, that adjustment will slip when hitting bumps or potholes. If there's a lip around the outer edge of that bracket, you can use Chrysler-style "cam bolts" on the bottom holes. Those provide a very precise means of making the adjustments and the offset heads help to hold the strut in alignment. You can also buy an aftermarket version of those bolts that do the same thing.

Here's a couple of hints that will make the vehicle easier to drive to the alignment shop. First, start with the vehicle supported solidly on jack stands under the frame so the suspension is hanging down freely. Place a magnetic angle finder, (this is a carpenter's tool), on one brake rotor and take the reading with the steering wheel perfectly straight and centered. Use a pair of the lug nuts to hold the rotor solidly in place when doing this. The exact value means nothing, but remember it. Remove just that one strut and do the service on that side. With the new strut installed, put the steering wheel back to centered if it got moved, then push on the bottom of the strut or turn the eccentric bolt until the rotor is at the same angle you found when you started. Once everything is tightened, do the same thing on the other side.

This trick is not accurate enough to replace the alignment, but it will get it close enough to prevent misery when driving to the alignment shop.

If you look at where the outer tie rod end attaches to the steering knuckle, you'll see it sits higher off the ground than the lower ball joint, and obviously it is a lot lower than the upper strut mount. That means as you push the top of the knuckle in on top to change camber, the knuckle's steering arm is going to move about the same amount. You need to readjust the length of the steering linkage to accommodate that, otherwise it will cause that wheel to turn left or right. By turning the wheel to one side, when you drive the vehicle, you have to turn the steering wheel until both front wheels are steering to the sides or to the vehicle's center an equal amount. That's a complicated way of saying the steering wheel will be off-center, . . . OR, if you started with a straight steering wheel before the service was done, if you set camber with the new strut exactly where it was with the old one, the steering wheel will be straight again.

By the way, "camber" is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel on top as viewed from in front looking back at the vehicle.

Even if you don't use this trick, try to get camber as close as possible to where you started. There's enough adjustment range in replacement struts to make the vehicle too hard to control if it's off too far.

This trick works with tie rod ends too, but only if you replace one at a time. Assuming you started with a straight steering wheel, replace one end by turning it on roughly the same number of turns that you unscrewed the old one, as a starting point. Drive the vehicle and note which way the steering wheel is off-center. If, for example, it's off-center to the right, the new tie rod end has to be readjusted to turn that wheel to the right. Repeat that until the steering wheel is straight, then replace the tie rod end on the other side if it's needed and do the same procedure. The vehicle should still be aligned, but "toe", the direction the wheels are steering, will be very close to specs.

This will not work if both tie rod ends or both struts are replaced at the same time. Camber and / or toe can be off a real lot and cause horrendous tire wear and handling problems, but if both sides are equal, the steering wheel will be straight, so that observation will no longer be valid.

It sounds like you don't need this, but for the benefit of others researching this topic, here's a link to a related article that might be useful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-suspension-strut-and-spring

The torque specs are shown below. Don't be too worried about the two lower strut mounting bolts. Those have to be loosened by the alignment specialist to make the camber adjustments, then that person will tighten them properly. Be sure to mention the new struts to the specialist. If he doesn't know you were in there, and by chance you got one side set perfectly to specs, he will leave those two lower bolts alone, thus possibly leaving them not tight enough. If he knows service was just performed, he is going to check the tightness of all the fasteners, even when one or two don't need to be adjusted.

Let me know how the job turns out.