Starter not working engine not cranking over?

Good morning,

It is possible but needs to be verified.

I attached a wiring diagram for you to view to check for powers going to the starter.

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

Check the fuse circled for power on both sides with the key in the start position. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

That fuse is inside the vehicle in the fuse box? How would i properly check if it's power coming from it?

You need a test light. You can get it at a parts store for under 10.

Test for power on both sides.

Roy

Update: well don't i feel embarrassed the SUV wasn't fully in park, my gear shift has an issue to where you have to secure it into park especially on a hill. Now it is starting, lol. but thank you for all your helpful information.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport. Yesterday, I drove to work without issue. When I went out at lunch, the car was 100% dead - no power locks, nothing...no noise when I turned the key. Let the car sit for 1 hour - same deal. 15 minutes later, I tried again & the car worked fine. I have turned it on & off multiple times since then without issue. This morning, it seemed to hesitate when I left for work, but ran ok. I turned it off & on again when I reached work - no issue. What could this be?

Most vehicles now are using a battery cable that is bolted to the under-hood fuse box. Start by looking there to see if the nut has worked loose. That seems to be a fairly common problem.

caradiodoc

Hi,
Occasionally (every month or so) my Explorer won't start.
I get a rapid clicking (not enough power to solenoid, I guess), the other low-power accessories work, but no turning over.
But if I let it then sit for a couple hours, it ALWAYS starts up. It labors a bit at first, but turns over, and then after driving it for 5 minutes, it starts perfectly fine from then on! For month or two anyway.

Any idea what's happening?

Thanks in advance,
Paul

Paul:
It could be a number of things. Have you checked the basics like making sure the battery terminals are clean and tight?

Hi, and thanks for the reply,
Yeah, I made sure to wire-brush the terminals and tighten them and top up the battery water.
And the engine continues to run if I disconnect the positive lead to the battery while it's running, so I guess that means the alternator's OK.

Paul

Try this, Paul. The next time it happens, I need to to go to the relay box under the hood and locate the EEC relay. That is the electronic engine control relay. They are known to go bad and act like you described. Switch it with another relay in the box that has the same part number and see if it will start.

Let me know what you find.

Hi, thanks for your reply again,

I'll give that a try the next time it dies on me.

cheers,
Paul

Let me know if that fixes it.

Joe

At first I could shift in neutral and it would crank but after a few days it wouldn't do that. But when the engine cools completely down it cranks fine in park. But when the engine gets warm it won't. I thought it was the safety neutral switch but I've never had one do that before. Usually it goes out its out. Any ideas?

check items in pic and starter relay for corrosion on prongs, use dielectric compound on them then have it scanned for codes to see if range selection switch on trans is bad. auto parts does for free.

I was changing a fuse for my tail lights and pulled the wrong one, in turn my engine shut off. i put it back and also a new one for my tail lights and i think it did something to the sercuity system. it doesnt want to start now, i get nothing. all my lights come on but i cant get the engine to turn over at all. I bought it at the auction so i have no manual or any information on the vehicule. Its my only car, Please try to help?????????

DESCRIPTION
Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) is designed to prevent driveaway thefts. The system is passive in that it does not require any activity from the user. System uses radio frequency identification technology to verify if proper key is being used to attempt to start the vehicle.
During each starting sequence, the encoded ignition key is interrogated by vehicle anti-theft electronics. If the key's identification code is programmed into anti-theft system, vehicle is capable of starting. If key's identification code is incorrect or missing, vehicle is prevented from starting.
PATS module communicates with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through Module Communication Network (MCN). PCM then determines if engine will be enabled to start. If the PCM prevents vehicle from starting because of PATS, PCM will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in memory.
PATS vehicle protection system consists of these components: PATS module, anti-theft indicator (THEFT) light, PATS transceiver module, encoded ignition key, module communications network and Data Link Connector (DLC).
OPERATION
ANTI-THEFT INDICATOR (THEFT) LIGHT
THEFT indicator light located on right side of instrument cluster is used to prove out system operation status. Under normal operation THEFT indicator light will illuminate for 3 seconds when ignition switch is in RUN or START position, and then turn off. If a problem exists in PATS, THEFT indicator light will flash rapidly or illuminate constantly with ignition switch in RUN or START position.

the engine on my 2000 ford explorer will sometimes not turn over when i try to start it. it has an anti theft key that works fine and the battery is fully charged. after waiting a while and after trying to start it repeatedely it will turn over and runs fine but will do it again. what is wrong?

Could be a bad starter/solenoid. Check for 12 volts at the small wire on the starter with key in crank position. If it has power then the starter needs to be replaced. If none, then get back to me and we will figure out where it stops.

2000 ford explorer 2wd 6 cyl sohc replaced starter and still wont start new battery turn the key and it clicks once behind dash have moved shifter to neutral and it has started before but nothing now could this be ignition switch or what could it be? wont start one click when you turn the key

Use a digital multimeter, place leads across battery posts. With key in the crank position, what is the reading? Check voltage at the starter itself. Any testing, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and e-brake is set.

One terminal at the starter is hot all the time. The other terminal goes hot with the key in the crank position.

Did you check your charging system? Maybe a drain with everything off?