Severe bucking problem 15 MPH

Thanks Joe. I did add the jumper (and got an over-drive code). What I did not do was turn of ignition, wait three minutes, and try again, to maybe stop the check engine light from flashing. By the way, most of the time it will run perfectly fine for a couple of miles, then it goes bad. So, we might call that an intermittent issue since it does run well for a short time. When it does start to malfunction, the exhaust smells really rich even at idle. The transmission code was for #1 shifting solenoid (as far as I remember). But, it does shift properly while it runs well. I don’t know if it would shift when it starts bucking as I can get going fast enough for it to shift into second gear.

Joe,

Sorry it’s taken me so long to respond. I blew a brake line, and it was a nightmare to repair. Here are the answers to your questions in no particular order, and a couple of oddities I’ve noticed since driving after the brakes were fixed.

The catalytic converter never got over 700°. It does not rattle when shaken or struck very hard.

The check engine light came on for 30 seconds, then shut off.

I jumped the T1 and TE1 terminals and got no codes at all. The check engine light came on with no flashing at all. I tried 3 different jumpers to ensure I was making type connections properly. There were no transmission codes. I fear the first time I jumped the OBD1 terminals, I did it improperly.

When the engine is malfunctioning the exhaust definitely smells very rich, but no smoke necessarily.

While I am comfortable checking fuel line pressure and regulator, I haven’t the tool, and can’t afford to buy one. Neither can I afford a mechanic with the tool, at $85 per hour. I just can’t do it.

Here’s food for thought: When I first test drive it, it performs well enough, for that mile or two. During this period, the speedometer doesn’t work. As soon as the engine starts bucking, it works again, even though I can’t manage more than 15 MPH.

What are your thoughts now?

Ken H.

Joe,

I was wondering if that speedometer activity might be a clue. I am comfortable doing those tests, but may not get to it until Thursday. I will absolutely write back with the result. And, by the way: your description of trying to drive in fifth gear sounds really close to what I am observing, only I’ve only seen that on a standard transmission. Indeed, the tests you suggested will be my next move. Thanks. “Talk” to you soon.
Ken H.

Thanks. I’m looking forward for my results.

Not as yet. I’ve had a couple of issues that have come up that preclude my work on the truck. I have something important to do tomorrow for which I’ve had to spend a lot of time preparing for. Once that is over with, my weather report app says it will be cool, but certainly not so much as to spend some outdoors time poking in and out of any number of electrical connectors.
Thanks for sticking with me. Ken H.

You’re not being a pain whatsoever. I consider your thoughts helpful. And yes; today I have upwards of 6 hours for nothing but testing. I’m pretty sure I’ll be writing you again soon. Thanks.
Ken H.

I forgot to mention that it shifted into second gear the other day while the engine was bucking away.

Joe,

So here was my day. First, I went to remove the negative battery cable. The terminal broke straight away. I followed the highlighted wiring diagram. Being mildly dyslexic, I spent an ungodly amount of time looking for blue/green wire. The iPad was charging, so I had to go back to the apartment to recheck. Anyway, by that point I had checked every terminal, and none had corrosion. I scampered under the truck, but there were a number of wired solenoids or sensors. Well, I don’t know the location of the VCC. One website suggested it was on the transfer case. That turned out to be useless anyhow since my dedicated flashlight quit working while looking. That’s when I gave up. I had earlier dismounted the computer so I could see the wiring. So, I grounded the case and reattached the broken battery terminal using a little finesse. I wanted to check if I had everything connected right, so I tried starting the engine. I know I have a dead spot on my starter (to be repaired later) but rapping on it frees it up. After doing that, I went to start it a second time. It cranked over once then quit. I went to make sure the battery terminal had a good connection, which it did. I proceeded to check the battery voltage. Nine volts. My disconnected battery drained while I was working. I threw in the towel. I have the tools put away and the battery on a trickle charger. Man, this is getting old. In addition, I have back problems, and being scrunched under the dash has left my lumbar region aching like heck. That means working on it tomorrow is out. The weekend is going to be a total washout with rain expected nonstop until Monday. I’ve never had this difficult problem on any Toyota truck I’ve ever had, and I’ve had four since my early 20’s; although this is my first V6 automatic. Ergo, you won’t be hearing from me till next week sometime, late. With weather and working elsewhere, I’ll have little time until Thursday and Friday to plug away at it again. I’ll write when I can. Thanks again. Ken H.

Can’t get to a parts store with no transportation. I’ll have to do a workaround and bring it every night for a trickle charge, and watch carefully what it does.

Joe,

I changed out the ignition coil, put in a new battery and changed the spark plugs. This is all after spending all the time trying to trace the computer wiring. Here’s the kicker: when trying to install plugs on the right bank, I found all the intake ductwork was in my way. So, I pulled it all out; simple enough. But what I found was a major break in the tube that was attached to the throttle body intake manifold. It was impossible to see before actually disassembling it. I had to cut away all of the broken and cracked part of the duct, which left it too short. For a temporary fix, I basically glued the tube onto the fuel injection air port. The improvement was astonishing. The only problem I apparently have now is a low idle speed when the engine goes into a closed loop. I’m going to need to change that one tube, but for now my shitty looking repair has done wonders for its performance. So, in the end, the throttle body was sucking the air it needed through the broken tube. So, when the Mass Air Flow Sensor kicked on, it had no air passing through it. This sent a message to the co outer which tried to adjust to the condition. But all it could do was overcompensate by fluctuating on every rotation of the crankshaft, it would add fuel, then shut it off. Hence the bucking situation. I’ve driven around town for a while with no more problems than that of the low idle at temp. What do you think about that? I’m going to start looking for the broken part after this letter.

Ken H.

Here is a picture of the ugly yet temporary fix. Yucky but functional.