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Rear drivers side power window rolls down but not up

Tiny
TONY KAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
My window wouldn't roll up so cut the regulator cable so I could manually push up the window until I could get the motor replaced. I then replaced the window regulator and motor yesterday with brand new parts only to discover that the new motor does not roll up either. Pulled a switch from the passenger side to see if the switch was the problem but that switch also did not roll window up, only down. Motor attaches to a 2 prong pigtail connector so I tested voltage with multimeter. 11.7 one direction -11.8 other. If I reverse the wires the motor will reverse. So that voltage is without motor attached in circuit. If I measure with motor attached I get 7.62 volts one direction and -.02V the other direction. I should add multimeter was hooked up with red prong to one wire on pigtail and black prong to other wire on pigtail.
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Saturday, July 3rd, 2021 AT 2:03 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,300 POSTS
Hi,

The way this works it like this. The wires at the motor can function as a power supply or a ground path. When you select up or down is what determines which wire is used for power. By reversing the polarity from power, the motor runs in different directions.

The idea that you are getting a negative power reading is likely because the wires are in the same location and power is running in the opposite direction.

Take a look at the pics below. That is the entire wiring schematic for the windows on this vehicle. I highlighted the power supply from the main switch to the rear one.

Since the window won't go up, First, I need you to check the yellow wire with a red tracer. Place the positive of the multimeter in the wire and the opposite to the motor. If there is nothing between the switch and the motor, check the gray wire with an orange tracer that comes from the main switch.

Here is a link you may find helpful.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Saturday, July 3rd, 2021 AT 10:09 PM
Tiny
TONY KAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Okay, the yellow wire with red tracer is at the switch and also at the connector to the motor. If I put the red probe to that wire where it connects to the motor and then the black probe to the other wire which is red with a yellow tracer I get 9.25 volts when it is rolling down and then -.02 volts when I attempt to roll it up.
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Saturday, July 3rd, 2021 AT 10:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,300 POSTS
When you reverse the direction, you also need to reverse the leads on the DMM. Otherwise, you won't get an accurate reading. If you do reverse them and get a +.02v reading, go back before the switch and see if you get a higher voltage. If you do, the switch is bad in the rear door.

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, July 3rd, 2021 AT 10:38 PM
Tiny
TONY KAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I have the same issue when I pull the switch off the passenger side and use it instead. Do I use the yellow/light blue and grey/orange wires for the red and black probes to test before the switch?
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Sunday, July 4th, 2021 AT 4:03 AM
Tiny
TONY KAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
This might illustrate what I did earlier. Not sure if it's relevant at this point but I didn't think it could hurt. The first videos are readings without the motor attached and the last is with the motor attached. I did these before I posted here.
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Sunday, July 4th, 2021 AT 4:36 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,300 POSTS
Yellow/blue and orange/gray are the power supply from the main switch. Since you can switch the wires on the motor and it works in both directions, the motor is good. Since it won't go up when connected correctly, the red/yellow isn't getting power.

Do me a favor. Check the red/blue wire at the switch to see if there is power. I'm questioning something and that will tell me if I am looking at this wrong.

Let me know.
Joe
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Sunday, July 4th, 2021 AT 8:35 PM
Tiny
TONY KAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
The red/blue at the switch with key turned to acc measures 12.6V. I put red probe to wire and black to ground on door to measure.
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Monday, July 5th, 2021 AT 4:53 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,300 POSTS
Tony,

That seems to be the power supply then and the other wires at the switch provide a ground path to complete the circuit. I'm sorry I didn't realize that at first. It's more difficult when the vehicle isn't in front of me.

If that is power, then the other two should show continuity to ground when the switch is actuated. Since it does it with a different switch, then the problem is before that. Check the gray/orange wire to the main switch.

Disconnect the rear door switch and check that wire for continuity when you have the main switch for that door in the up position. If there is none, then check for continuity right at the main switch itself. If there is none, replace the main switch. If there is, then there is a break at some point in that wire.

Let me know if that makes sense or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe
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Monday, July 5th, 2021 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
TONY KAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Joe,

Thanks for your help thus far. It looks to me like the problem has to be with the switch. I am baffled because the switch from the passenger side works fine on the passenger side but will not roll up window when I move it to driver side. Likewise the switch from the drivers side will roll up the passenger side window when attached there. I am going to re-measure the voltage at each wire and reverse the leads as you suggested. I just need to wait until daylight to be able to remove the door panels again. I had to put the thing back together for the 4th so I could work.
Edit: Sorry I didn't see that you had posted a reply already. I will check the main switch as well. Is that the drivers door switch?
2nd Edit: Light Bulb just went off. Okay, so I am going to look for a possible break in continuity between the drivers door switch and the rear switch on that gray orange wire. If that is okay then the problem is going to be with the main switch itself. Got it.
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Monday, July 5th, 2021 AT 8:30 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,300 POSTS
Hi,

First, you are very welcome. Let me know how things are going and what is found. I can't be certain, but it seems the problem goes back to the main switch not providing what is needed, a ground path.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe
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Tuesday, July 6th, 2021 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
TONY KAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I think you are correct. I swapped rear switches one more time and the non working switch worked just fine on the other side. I tested the continuity between the rear and main on both wires and could make a circuit with both of them. I ordered a new drivers switch off eBay for $20.00 and decided to go test one more time, thinking the window should work if there was continuity on both wires. When I popped off the door panel I also notice a "driver door module" in the door. Do you know what that thing does? I don't but I messed with it anyways and decided it wasn't related to my problem. I began testing voltages at the main switch with the switch engaged and my multimeter lead grounded to the chassis. Next thing I realized that window was going up and down. So I went to check the rear switch and still only working one direction. Checked main and it worked both directions. Checked rear and it began working in both directions as well. I have no clue what happened but you, sir, are a genius and I am very grateful for your help. If ever in Huntington beach please allow me to buy you a beer or something and say thank you.
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Wednesday, July 7th, 2021 AT 6:10 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,300 POSTS
Hi,

It sounds like you either moved something that was corroded or loose or somehow you got the main switch to work again. Also, my friend, you did all the work, not me. You are the genius, but if I helped at all, you are very welcome.

As far as the driver's door module (DDM), it monitors inputs and provides outputs and diagnostic information for the power door locks, keyless remote system, door ajar switches, and so on.

Regardless, if you have a chance, let me know if everything is working once the new switch is installed. And if I'm correct, Huntington Beach is in CA. I would enjoy the beer, but you are about 2,500 miles away. LOL That would be a long drive.

Take good care of yourself and please feel free to come back anytime in the future if you have questions. You are always welcome here.

Joe
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Wednesday, July 7th, 2021 AT 8:32 PM

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