Rear brake pad and rotor (shoe and drum) replacement instructions please?

Tiny
DARLINE RANSON GURNEY
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 4.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 52,000 MILES
Rear brake caliper piston will not re-track.
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Thursday, June 8th, 2017 AT 3:11 PM

31 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Here is a video that will help with this:

https://youtu.be/hPzxdnLJbhc

and

https://youtu.be/j8YwfSKEzZo

If it will not retract then you are going to have to replace it as it is seized or the fluid is not being allowed to return.

Here is a guide that will help replace the brakes and caliper as you will most likely need to replace both while you are there:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-rear-brake-pads-and-rotors

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-caliper-replacement

Below is the process for this as well from the manual. Let us know if you have other questions. Thanks
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Friday, March 12th, 2021 AT 5:39 PM
Tiny
RBLACKFO
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 50,000 MILES
The right rear passengers brake has been locking up. When we stop for a short time it works again for a while then it locks up again the brake pads are too low.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • EXPERT
Here is the information you requested. Here is a tutorial on how to remove and replace rear brake pads and rotors:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-rear-brake-pads-and-rotors

Here is a YouTube video from our site on how to compress the rear caliper piston when performing a rear brake job:

https://youtu.be/j8YwfSKEzZo

I've attached picture steps below on how to replace the brake pads on your van. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MDAISY2017
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 50,000 MILES
I am replacing the rear brakes on my van and I am running into an issue with the brake caliper. Normally I would use a c-clamp to reset it inorder to slip back over the brake pads but when I try it on this one the c-clamp won't even budge the caliper. Am I doing something wrong?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The parking brake is built into the caliper and you need a special tool to screw the piston into that assembly. Any auto parts store that rents or borrows tools will have the tool kit. Here is a video that will help with this:

https://youtu.be/hPzxdnLJbhc

and

https://youtu.be/j8YwfSKEzZo

This is a pretty sad state of affairs. Chrysler has always had a better way of doing things that typically benefited the car owner, but here they dropped the ball. GM and Ford used this miserable parking brake design for decades while Chrysler had a much better parking brake shoe setup in a small drum inside the rotor. The rear calipers were serviced just like the front ones. Now GM and Ford finally stopped using that troublesome design and went to the Chrysler system, and Chrysler is using the undesirable GM system.

I attached a picture below of what/how the tool works
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BERN50
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 166,000 MILES
Are these numbers good 0.512 in and 0.478? Where I should I not have to change the rotors?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:27 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • EXPERT
Hello,

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros!

According to the manufacturer specifications the minimum rotor thickness for the front brake rotors is 1.040" and for the rear it is .409" See the chart attached.

Generally you replace rotors for two reasons. One is that they are worn out below the minimum thickness. Two is if they are warped and cause your brake pedal to pulsate meaning that they are warped (they have "runout"). If both thickness and runout are good, then there is no need to replace them.

Regards,
Jon
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:27 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FLYBOY123
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 30,000 MILES
I cannot reset the caliper on the rear brake. It has a combination foot and emergency brake on the rear cylinder. It does not retract when presure is applyed.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:27 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

There is a special tool required to screw the piston back into the caliper see pic and text for details.

Mark (mhpautos)


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/61395_Graphic_2.png


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/61395_1_71.jpg

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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:27 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHASFWOODARD
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
I can't figure out how to replace rear pads. Please help.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:27 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EDWARD.S
  • MEMBER
The rear pad procedure is similar to the fronts...

Read the guide below on rear pad change, it will help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-rear-brake-pads-and-rotors

The vehicle specific instructions fro you vehicle are attached below
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:27 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HOMERRRR
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
I can't get the drums to come loose, do I heat it somewhere, maybe rust
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MEMBER
Make sure the emergency brake is off. Spray some anti-rust or anti-seize (such as PB Blaster) around the edge of the drum and on the wheel bolts, and wait about 5 - 10 minutes. Tap around the drum with soft hammer. This video will help

https://youtu.be/UV0kfP17Co0

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGALDOWELL
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 11,000 MILES
How do I remove the rear rotors? I have everything else off. An illustration wold be excellent also. Thanks.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
  • MEMBER
Hey Al! Is the park brake off? I know that sounds stupid, but I have to ask. Make sure the retainers clips are off the studs, and if the rotor feels stuck, use a deadblow hammer and very evenly tap the backside of the rotor. If thery are rusted on the hub, then they may have to be sacrificed.

Once you put the brakes back together, make sure the surface on the hub that meets the backside of the rotor is clean and free of rust or debris. If you need anything else, please ask.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGALDOWELL
  • MEMBER
Yes, parking brake is off and clips are off. It seems to def. Be rusted on. Have been banging on the backside with a sledgehammer with no budge. Have new rotors to put on, so no problem sacrificing the rotors. They are not moving at all. Is there a tool or trick to get the rust off? That is where I'm stuck.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
  • MEMBER
OKay then, lets try this. We're gonna use some penetrating oil and a hand held torch. Propane canister with an ignitor screwed on to it. Douce the center of the frontside of the rotor, and around the stud openings. Heat up the center of the rotor, and work at it that way.

I have had some so rusted I had to cut them off like slicing a pizza with a saws all. Keep me posted.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGALDOWELL
  • MEMBER
Thats a good idea. I will keep ya posted. Thanks!
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TONNIETC
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 47,000 MILES
Where is the rear caliper bolts to remove caliper? Is there a special tool required?
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVE H
  • MEMBER
DISC BRAKE CALIPER - REAR
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER
NOTE:Handling of the rotor and caliper, must be done in such a way as to avoid damage to the rotor and scratching or nicking of lining on the brake shoes.

Depress the brake pedal past its first inch of travel and hold it in this position using a brake pedal depressor (holding) tool. This is done to isolate the master cylinder from the brake hydraulic system disallowing the brake fluid to completely drain out of the brake fluid reservoir.
Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
Remove rear wheel and tire assembly from vehicle.
Remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake hose to the brake caliper. There are two washers (one on each side of the brake hose fitting) that will come off with the banjo bolt. Discard these washers.
Remove the disc brake caliper to adapter guide pin bolts. See Fig. 42.
Fig. 42: Caliper Guide Pin Bolts
Courtesy of DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORP.
1 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
2 - ADAPTER
3 - AXLE
4 - GUIDE PIN BOLTS
5 - DRIVESHAFT (AWD MODELS ONLY)


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_cal_1.jpg



Remove rear caliper from adapter using the following procedure. First rotate front of caliper up from the adapter. Then pull the rear of the caliper and the outboard brake shoe anti-rattle clip out from under the rear abutment on the adapter. See Fig. 43.
Fig. 43: Removing/Installing Caliper
Courtesy of DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORP.
1 - LIFT THIS END OF CALIPER AWAY FROM ADAPTER FIRST
2 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER ABUTMENT
4 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE HOLD DOWN CLIP
5 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
6 - ROTOR
7 - ADAPTER

If the brake rotor requires removal, it can now be removed by first removing the retainer clips from the wheel mounting studs, then pulling the rotor straight off the studs.
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Monday, March 15th, 2021 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)

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