It just feels like I need to use more pedal and the engine is revving higher?

So you think it’s the maf, even though it seems to read and perform okay on the scan tool? If so, do I need the motor craft one or is an aftermarket one acceptable?

Also one other detail I just thought of. It seems more peppy in the morning when I first start it, until about the time it warms up. Which made me think maybe it was the o2 sensors, but they and the fuel trims seem to be okay according to what I’ve read online.

Okay, I’ve got one coming Tuesday. I’ll let you know what happens.

Well, I’ve installed the new MAF and I’m not sure exactly. I can’t really get a difference on the scan tool, but it does feel better. It seems like the shift points have dropped about 3-4 hundred rpm so it feels a little better from a standing start and it cruises on the highway about 1,700 rpm's instead of the 2,000 where it used to be. Haven’t driven enough miles yet to really tell about the gas mileage long term. Should I do anything else? Do I need to reset the computer or anything? I saw a video online that said if you clean the throttle body you should disconnect the battery and drain the capacitor so that the computer will relearn shift points and such. Do I need to do anything like that with the MAF?

So, we last talked about this in October and it feels like the truck has reverted to it's previous poor acceleration. So now I'm wondering if it ever really got better or it was all in my head. Just the slow acceleration from a stop and poor gas mileage. The gas mileage isn't horrible, its about 15 according to the dash but I remember it used to be about 17 and even just cruising on the highway I remember I reset it for a trip while on the freeway and it was showing about 22-24 instantaneous mpg, while if I do that now it doesn't get over 19-20. So, is there anything else it can be? Would spark plugs do this at 75,000 miles? Still no codes thrown. It's just weird that where I live I can hit small hills in either direction shortly after leaving my house, 1/2 to 2 miles away, and the engine feels better in the morning when cold and seems to pull better heading up the hills than on the flat. I don't know if any of that helps just trying to let you know everything I can think of.

Yes, I believe I can read temperature through the scan tool. That would be the ECT reading correct? Are you looking for a reading at a certain time or at start up or at operating temperature?

So it was about 26 degrees outside today. I drove home from work and stopped at the house for about 20 minutes went back out to run errands with the scan tool attached. The etc read from 197 to 204 but seemed to average about 201.

So, next step would be to check catalytic?

Hello again, it's been awhile since we last discussed this but I was waiting for it to get a little warmer outside and then the world came to a screeching halt and this kind of took a backseat. Anyway, I've had some spare time and I wasn't able to check the catalytic yet since I haven't been able to get my hands on an infrared temperature tool. Although I did manage to change the spark plugs recently and it seemed to help some, but not the dramatic increase I was hoping for. I remember getting around 23 mpg when just cruising on the highway about 1,900 rpm's and trying the same thing now it's about 21 mpg, so I seem to be down about 2 mpg all the way around. Anyway, I was wondering if you could take a look at the old plugs and let me know if there's anything there to be concerned about?

Thanks

Thanks, I did replace them already, I was just wondering if you saw anything on them that gave you any more clues to the poor acceleration. As I said, the new ones feel a little better but not the dramatic improvement I was hoping for. I think the one you mentioned was just a bad angle, they were all gaped, but close to the outer limit. I guess it's on the catalytic to try and rule that out.

Thanks again.

Hello again, I'm still trying to figure out if I have a problem or not. I decide that I'll just live with it and then get annoyed with it because it seems to have no power on the low end, like trying to get on the highway. I'm going to be towing again in the summer and would really like to get this sorted out if need be by then. So, this time I was looking around found a video where the tip off was the BARO reading. So I hooked up my scan tool and found the reading but it was in inHg(see first picture) and the video was discussing correct readings with Hz, is there a conversion or can you tell me what the correct reading should be here near Akron, Ohio? Also I still never did get a infrared thermometer to test the catalytic, but I noticed that there are 2 catalytic converter readings on the scan tool (see second picture). Are these the intake and exhaust temperatures for the catalytic converters? They read almost identical, so does this mean that it's okay?

Finally, I disconnected the battery and pulled the throttle body to clean it while I was messing around today and it didn't really seem to dirty. But after reinstalling everything and taking it for a test drive it feels great. It's the same as when I installed the new MAF, it's great at first until I drive it for a while and then it gradually ends p back where I started. So if everything above is correct, any other ideas on things I can check?

Thanks again.