I have a 1994 Pontiac Bonneville SE with 140XXX on it. I have had the car for for 7 months. I have not driven this car more than 2500 miles. It has a tranny rebuild done 3 years ago with no more than 6000 miles on it all together. Here's a list of what this stinking car does.
* I lose my oil pressure after the car has been driven for a while, and I stop, I can restart the car without problem, but oil pressure remains low and will fluctuate upon acceleration or deceleration.
* The alternator and battery are brand new, and yet I lose my battery charge. It will be full when I start the car and after making a few stops and driving it a while it will not start again. And I have to get it jumped.
* my check engine light goes on after a few minutes of driving the car.
* my fuel gauge will fluctuate after I get to a half a tank of gas or less. Will fluctuate about a quarter tank up or down relative to acceleration.
* I just had an oil change and drove it to portland, My car has never run hotter than the regular operating temp, but since the change my car runs hotter than normal, not overheating by needle will stay in the middle or slightly higher.
* my steering column electrical wont work, no horn, stereo control, cruise, nothing.
* I can't get a diagnotic machine to read my cars computer.
recently my cars tires and brakes have been squealing something fierce. Even when I am not applying the brakes, as I am driving my car is making a horrible noise, whether hot or cold.
I am sorry this is so long winded. I really need your advice, I can't just go out and get another car, and I do not know of any good technicians or anyone in general. I depend on this car to carry my two young sons and am at a loss as to what to do. Or where to even start. Please repsond. God Bless
Thank you for taking time to consider my post.
Witht the los of oil pressure I would definetely replace the oil pump if your sure its just not the oil pressure sensor or sending unit.
With the car running test for voltage coming off of the alternator, if your getting proper voltage drive it for a while and check if it still is then your alternator is still good and I would check all the cables and connectors going to the battery. If all is good have the battery tested ive had several new batterys defective, thanks wally world.
To scan for trouble codes take it to a advanced auto parts or auto value and ask if they scan the cars pcm for trouble codes for free, they should.
With the oil change, you could have had a different kind of oil put in that was probably thinner then what the car is used to and it ran a little hot. I wouldnt worry about it unless you get white smoke out of the exhaust.
With the squealing can you describe it better, is it a short squeak each time the wheel makes a full revolution, or is it a constant high pitch squeal that doesnt matter if you put the brakes on or not.
And with the steering column electricl I would check a fuse or a unpluged wire.
November, 3, 2007 AT 3:29 PM
Thank you for responding to me, you have no idea how much I appreciate this. The squeal seems to be when the wheels are making a full revolution. Short and sharp and also when I apply the brakes, it is steady and sharp.
My dad had looked at the battery cables and cleaned them and tightened down the battery and I didnt have to jump it for a while. I can see what you are saying about the oil in the car, the oil in it previously was synthetic oil and at the change it was regular 10w30.
If the oil pressure thing is the sending unit would my car just die? I can start it again with no problem, ( provided that my damned battery is charged enough ) and I can drive it again. I am bothered about the wheels making that noise, I took it into Les Scwab a while ago after I got the car to make sure all was well, and they said that the tires were great, that in the pretty far future I might need struts, but that was it, and told me to be on my way. The sqealing is recent. Also I have been getting oil or sludge on the outside rim of my tires, is that at all normal, I don't drive my car long distances at all, I have driven it about 3,000 miles since March of this year.
Also, if the fuse on the steering column is blown, or whatever, would that need to be replaced before using the coding machine, I only have Schucks and Autozone in WA and they said they don't have a coder machine for a 1994, so I couldn't get a reading. Bleck!
Thank you again.
November, 3, 2007 AT 7:14 PM
With the oil/sludge on your tires. Check all the rubber gromets between the ball joins and the cv boots. The cv boot could be ripped causing the grease to come out onto the outside of the tires!
All fuses should be replaced before checking codes.
November, 3, 2007 AT 9:04 PM
I will get these things looked at asap. I do all my own car work ( except major repairs ) so this will definitley be an educational experience. To be honest, while I don't look forward to spending money I am excited to get to work on my car, she's the shit.
If you happen to have any more ideas as to what to look for I am all ears.
November, 4, 2007 AT 7:50 AM
Post back the results and findings and if you have any more questions feel free : P
June, 9, 2009 AT 8:26 PM
I know it's been a really long time. Just a quick question. I got my car in the shop ( started running again and then stopped )
Repair guy said it was leaking coolant into the oil and that he is going to repair the intake gasket, it's going to cost about 600 dollars. Is this correct? He said he will see if this stops the leak, and change the oil and clean the stuff out best he can. Is this even feasible? Am I spinning my wheels here or should I just junk the car? I am already emptying out my bank account for this repair!