What is causing my points on my 460 ford to burn after just a few miles of driving? I have to stop and sand my points to get going again. I have changed the cap, button, plugs, wires, points and condenser about 1 month ago. Any thoughts?
WHAT IS THE VOLTAGE TO THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL WITH THE "KEY ON"?
May, 3, 2013 AT 4:16 PM
I have not checked that yet, what should it be? Because i'm not sure cause I changed my electronic ignition over to a points dist. Several years ago and have not had any trouble with it until here recently. If you can let me know I would surley appreciate it. Thank you.
May, 3, 2013 AT 6:53 PM
WHY DID YOU GO BACK TO THE POINT SYSTEM??????
JUST SORTA WONDERING
ON MY 1946 WILLYS, I NEVER HAD MUCH LUCK USING "VENTED POINTS" (ANVILS HAVE HOLES IN 'EM)----SORTA HAD THE SAME "DIE....THEN SAND ON 'EM WITH THE OLE 'EMORY BOARDS' I STOLE FROM MY WIFE"..................I'VE USED ONLY POINTS WITH SOLID ANVILS SINCE I FIGGERED OUT THE VENTED ONES JUST DON'T CUT IT IN WILLY
IF YOU WILL SCROLL DOWN TO "MY PICs/ DIAGRAMS" ON "FEB 5th"....IN THIS POST, YOU WILL SEE HOW I HAVE RIGGED BOTH OF MY JEEPS WITH A BALLAST RESISTOR
..........ONE, TO PROLONG POINT LIFE ON "WILLY" (1946 WILLYS)......AS MANY EARLY POINT SYSTEMS USED A BALLAST RESISTOR TO LOWER THE COIL VOLTAGE
.........DID THE SAME FOR "MR. JEEP" (1977 CJ 5) WHEN I UP-GRADED THE CRAPPY "PRESTOLITE IGNITION" (NO RESISTOR ORIGINALLY) TO THE "MOTORCRAFT IGNITION", WHICH CAME OUT IN 1979 AND WAS USED THRU 1989 ON CJs, EARLY WRANGLERS........THE MOTORCRAFT SYSTEM USED A RESISTANCE WIRE (STARTING IN '79).......I ADDED A BALLAST RESISTOR IN THE '77s REGULAR OLE WIRE TO "MIMIC" RESISTANCE WIRE FOUND IN THE '79
MAYBE I'M NOT CONFUSING YOU!
IN THE SAME ROW OF PICS---YOU WILL SEE "KEY ON" (BASICALLY BATTERY VOLTAGE 12.5 VOLTS)---A VOLTAGE READING OF "7.48 VOLTS DC"---THIS IS WHAT IT GETS REDUCED TO USING THE BALLAST RESISTOR........IT IS SLIGHTLY HIGHER WHEN IT IS RUNNING (WHEN ALTERNATOR OUTPUT 13.8-14 VOLTS)..........I THINK THE BALLAST RESISTOR KEEPS IT BELOW 9 VOLTS WHEN IT'S RUNNING....I'D HAVE TO VERIFY THIS!
I HAVE "WILLY" STILL ABLE TO QUICKLY RE-INSTALL THE POINT SYSTEM.....IF NEED BE,
SINCE THIS LINK ABOVE, I HAVE INSTALLED A REALLY NEAT "ELECTRONIC SYSTEM" IN WILLY, IT IS SIMPLE AND THERE ARE ONLY 2 WIRES.........IT IS SO COOL!!!......SEEMS TO RUN SMOOTHER......THIS SYSTEM IS AVAILABLE FOR ALMOST ANY DISTRIBUTOR W/ POINTS
I'LL GIVE YOU MORE INFO ON THE SYSTEM IF YOU ARE INTERESTED.....USING THIS SYSTEM ON WILLY, ELIMINATES THE NEED FOR THE BALLAST RESISTOR
I KEPT THE BALLAST RESISTOR IN PLACE, BUT "BYPASSED" IT, JUST IN CASE THE NEW SYSTEM FAILED, I COULD HAVE IT BACK TO "POINTS" IN LESS THAN 10 MINUTES......I KEEP ALL OF THE OLD GOODIES ON BOARD!
May, 3, 2013 AT 7:10 PM
So maybe I can install a ballast resistor and that might solve my problem? I got a new coil today for a 1973 ford and installed it. Have not test drove it yet, I am still using the factory ignition wire from the switch to the coil, is that a low or high resistance wire? Or do you think that a ballast resistor would solve my problem?
May, 3, 2013 AT 10:02 PM
I RECKON I'M GONNA HAVE TO OHM MINE TOMORROW SO YOU WILL KNOW THE SPECS (ON MINE ANYWAY)
THERE ARE QUITE A FEW LISTED ONLINE AT ADVANCEAUTOPARTS AND AUTOZONE (UNDER "BALLAST RESISTOR". NAPA LISTS THEM AS "IGNITION COIL RESISTORS"
I'VE BEEN MORE OF A TRIAL AND ERROR KINDA GUY OVER THE YEARS. NOT REAL SCIENTIFIC ON THESE SORTA THINGS
I LIKE THE K.I.S.S METHOD WHEN IT COME TO ANY KINDA MODIFICATION."KEEP IT SIMPLE, STUPID"!
I'D RATHER HAVE "ONLY ONE FACTOR" CHANGE. INSTEAD OF SEVERAL. DOWN THE ROAD, YOU MAY NOT REMEMBER ALL OF THE CHANGES YOU DID, WHEN IT'S "FIX IT TIME" AGAIN!
I FIGURED I COULD EITHER
A) STICK IN A COIL W/ AN INTERNAL RESISTOR.A CHANGE FROM OEM, WHERE THE '79 USED A COIL "FOR EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY"
B) INSTALL THE BALLAST RESISTOR ON MY 1977. BASICALLY "MAKE A RESISTANCE WIRE" THAT THE 1979 SYSTEM HAD ALREADY INCORPORATED INTO IT
SO I WENT WITH "B". WHEN I NEED SOMETHING FOR MY '77's JEEP'S IGNITION.I CALL IT A "1979" AT THE AUTO PARTS STORE. THE BALLAST RESISTOR IS THE ONLY EXCEPTION TO THE RULE (A "MUST HAVE" TO KEEP THE REST OEM)
AS FAR AS THE BALLAST "BREAKING"---"BURNING UP". NO PROBLEM. SEEMS ANY PROBLEMS I'VE HAD WITH ONE, WAS "BOUNCING" THE JEEP AROUND, AND THE "RED HOT" COILED UP RESISTOR WIRE IN THE BACK OF THE CERAMIC GOT SHOOK HARD AND BROKE
THE SYMPTOMS I'VE HAD OF THE RESISTOR BEING BAD ISIT'LL CRANK AND FIRE UP, AS LONG AS THE KEY IS IN THE "START POSITION" (VOLTAGE TO THE COIL IS BEING SUPPLIED BY "I TERMINAL" ON THE SOLENOID DURING "START" (FORD/ JEEP)
HOWEVER, WHEN YOU RELEASE THE KEY----IT'S NOW IN THE "ON OR RUN POSITION"----THERE IS A BREAK IN THE WIRE (THE BAD BALLAST RESISTOR) AND IT WILL NOT CONTINUE TO RUN!
IT WILL RUN (TO LIMP IT IN) SIMPLY BY BYPASSING THE RESISTORTHIS IS JUST TEMPORARY, TILL YOU CAN GET ANOTHER ONEI KEEP A FEW "PIGGY BACKS" IN MY ON BOARD TOOLS AND PARTS.I EVEN LEAVE ONE ON THE BALLAST RESISTOR, TO MAKE IT EZ!
I'M ATTEMPTING 3 PICS TO DEMONSTRATE. FORTH IS OF THE '79 SYSTEM. FIFTH IS SOLENOID OPERATION. SEE HOW "I" WORKS!
STILL NO WORD ON "WHY" YOU WENT BACKWARDS IN TIME, TO POINTS?
May, 4, 2013 AT 8:33 AM
Two reasons why I chose to go back to old school points, the main reason I went back to points is because every so often the damn thing would just up and die on me whenever and wherever it it wanted to. It would turn over but not start for a few mins and eventually start, that really sucked in traffic. To many pricey parts to get it figured out. Reason 2 for changing back was that parts are much cheaper and easier to diagnose, and I am just like you when it comes to K.I.S.S. (Keep it simple stupid).
May, 4, 2013 AT 7:32 PM
OK BOSS----I WENT OUT AND DID SOME MEASURING ON BOTH BALLAST RESISTORS ON BOTH OF MY JEEPS
I THEN WENT TO ADVANCEAUTOPARTS.COM AND TO AUTOZONE.COM , IN AN ATTEMPT TO FIND SOME SPECS ON THE ONES THEY HAVE.........IT'S BEEN QUITE A WHILE SINCE I GOT MINE, AND I COULD NOT LOCATE THE BOXES (I KEEP THE PART NUMBERS [LIDS OFF THE BOXES] TO MANY OF MY PARTS
I FEEL SURE THESE 2 CAME FROM ADVANCE AUTO
NEVER THE LESS, TAKE YOUR VOLTMETER IN THE STORE WITH YOU, WHERE EVER YOU GO.
I SET MY VOLTMETER TO "200 OHMS" AND WHEN IT SETTLED DOWN, I GOT A "1.7 OHM" READING ACROSS THE MALE SPADES
SORRY, I'M NOT MUCH OF AN AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICIANI JUST SORTA KNOW WHAT WORKS FOR ME. MOST OF THE RESISTORS I LOOKED AT WERE $10-$20.......I KNOW I DIDN'T GIVE ANY MORE THAN THAT FOR EITHER OF MINE!......I'M THINKING THEY WERE ON THE LOWER END OF THE PRICE SCALE!
I'M DO PRETTY DARN GOOD WITH THE JEEP CJs AND OTHER OLDER CARBURETED VEHICLES, I HOPE THIS IS SORTA HELPING YOU!
SO LIKE........WHAT THE HECK, YOU WILL BE OUT $10 IF IT DON'T WORK OUT FOR YOU!
HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF "PERTRONICS"?
THEIR SYSTEM IS VERY SIMPLE--NO EXTRA BOXES--DISTRIBUTOR PICK-UP AND I BOUGHT THEIR COIL---NO NEED FOR THE BALLAST RESISTOR..........ECONOMICAL TOO!
I REPLACED THE POINT SYSTEM IN WILLY WITH THE PERTRONICS SYSTEM MADE SPECIFICALLY FOR MY DISTRIBUTOR AND USED THEIR COIL.......THE WHOLE DEAL CAN BE SWITCHED BACK TO POINTS IN ABOUT 10 MINUTES (I KEEP THE POINT SHELF, BALLAST RESISTOR [BYPASSED] AND OLD COIL ON BOARD), SHOULD SOMETHING GO WRONG!......HASN'T YET, AND I REALLY LIKE THE SYSTEM....SEE THIS POST