1999 Plymouth Breeze Misfire on cylinder 3

Tiny
RMULVEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 PLYMOUTH BREEZE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 133,000 MILES
I have a 1999 Plymouth breeze (4 cylinder 2.0L). The vehicle has a misfire on cylinder 3. I replaced plugs, wires, and distributer (or whatever that thing is the wires plug into in this type car :)). The problem still happens. I then double checked that it was not a plug/wire by switching the cylinder 3 plug and wire with another cylinder. The problem stayed at cylinder 3. I then listened to see if the individual injectors were clicking (they are). I then used an ohm meter on the injectors, and they are all 12.5 ohms (including the one on cylinder 3). I believe this means it is either a bad injector or a bad cylinder. I have reached the end of my expertise (which is almost 0). I hope this is a bad injector, not bad cylinder, but with my limited tools I do not know how to tell. For example should I pull the fuel rail and actually swap injectors? I actually don`t know how to swap the fuel rail, to do so I need a diagram or explanation (I ordered a manual but it`s not here yet). Please help :) !
Wednesday, June 9th, 2010 AT 3:19 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Check compression
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Wednesday, June 9th, 2010 AT 3:37 PM
Tiny
RMULVEY
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  • 4 POSTS
Thank you. I do not have a compression test kit, but I know someone who does. I will borrow it this weekend and run the test.
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Wednesday, June 9th, 2010 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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O.K. Post results if compression is low put 1 oz. Oil in cylinder and retest. Pull all plugs to test and open throttle
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Thursday, June 10th, 2010 AT 8:00 AM
Tiny
RMULVEY
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hi,

I finally was able to get my hands on the test kit. It looks like #3 is bad. You'll see that there are 2 results for #3, that is because I redid the test wet for that cylinder.

1) 1270
2) 1360
3) 400 / 650
4) 1450

I am not someone with the ability to tear-down the engine. Additionally, this is a 1999 Breeze (not a lot invested in it). I don't like to have to dump it, but I think maybe I need to. Any more advice or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Friday, June 18th, 2010 AT 2:31 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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With results of wet test indicates valve so pull head have machine shop repair couple hunderd you should be back running. Not to bad of a job I can talk you through good to get a manual
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Friday, June 18th, 2010 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
RMULVEY
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I have the Haynes manual for the vehicle. You make "pull the head" sound pretty easy :). I am looking at the instructions, and it doesn't look very easy to me. I hope you can answer some questions that are probably dumb.
1) How long do you think it would take someone like me, who can usually fix stuff, but has never done anything like this to take out the cylinder head?
2) Roughly how much does the cylinder head weigh (this is a 2.0L 4 cylinder)?
3) I need to call around to see how much a valve job would cost if I took in the head. What exactly should I ask these places? Is it common for someone to take in the whole block and ask that one cylinder be repaired?

Thanks again!
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Friday, June 18th, 2010 AT 4:19 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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As for Q #1- not sure of your experience or having tools needed for job so for time can't say @ 1 day to tear down T-belt will be most time. Couple days at Macine shop and coulpe days to install.
Q #2- @ 40 lbs.
Q#3- yes very common that is how mthey make a living. Tell them need a valve job, check for cracks and straightens.
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Monday, June 21st, 2010 AT 8:45 AM

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