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Dead battery?

Tiny
DEWEY BUTTERFLY
  • MEMBER
  • 2017 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 40,000 MILES
Dash lights blinking on and off and the engine will not turn over. PCM reset?
Tuesday, May 7th, 2019 AT 4:15 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon,

I would start by checking the battery voltage. It sounds like you have a low battery.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage at the battery. It should be 12.4 to 12.6 for it to start.

Roy
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Tuesday, May 7th, 2019 AT 4:20 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
I attached the procedures for replacing the battery for you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Roy
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Wednesday, December 9th, 2020 AT 4:53 PM
Tiny
DL_UVA99
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 55,000 MILES
I have had trouble starting my 2005 Honda Accord LX a few months back; it would take 2 or 3 tries to start, especially in the cold. This happened about 4 times over a 2 month period. Then 1 week ago, I needed a jump to start the car. I then took it to Advanced Auto and had the battery tested. It indicated battery needed to be charged. Charged it in 35 minutes at Advanced Auto using their charger station and tested battery again; the CCA indicated 374 for the 410 battery and Advanced Auto said the battery was good.

2 days later, I cannot start the car again. How can I check if it's a recharge issue, or if it is a simply a dead battery?

THANK YOU!
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

Ok, a couple questions first.

When you stated that you had problems starting a few months back and it took 2 or 3 times.
Did it turn over normally and just didn't start?

Did the same thing happen the other times mentioned over that 2 months?

Is the Battery the Original Battery? If so could be the battery most batteries only last 3 - 4 years.

If you have a test light you can perform a simple test to see if there is a draw on the battery. Remove either the Negative cable or the Positive cable. Make sure everything in the vehicle is off and doors are closed, if has under hood light take out the bulb. Then connect the test light between the cable and the battery terminal. If the light comes on then there is a draw on the battery. Depending on the amount of draw the light may be very dim or bright.

If you have a digital multi-meter you can check the voltage that in in the battery. At full charge should be 12.60. If below 12.45 would need charged. However, you won't be able to determine the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). And that is what is needed to be able to operate the starter.

.
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DL_UVA99
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
When the problem started 2 months back, the engine would try to start/turn but could not, and finally start after 2nd turn of the key.

This is the OEM batter and have had it since 2005; so I'm guessing replacing the battery is the best bet. Advanced Auto is offering a battery w/ 510 CCA for about $95, I have a $10 off coupon; would this be a pretty decent deal? THANKS!
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Wouldn't be a bad idea. $95 sounds kinda high to me. If there are other parts stores around you I would call and get the prices. Even though you have a $10 off coupon you may be able to do better.

Another possibility now knowing the previous problem was not starting. Check the negative cable at the engine. Make sure clean and tight. Wouldn't hurt to remove and clean area. A bad ground can also cause the intermitant problem.

.
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BARBIDAHL56
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 35,000 MILES
Car was dead - jumped off & ran for 15-20 mins. Turned on lights & car died.

Jumped again, drove 20 miles, stalled while driving. Jumped again, droved 40 miles, stalled at intersection. Towed to Honda dealership (still under warranty). They replaced battery, after supposedly checking electrical issues & said it was battery. Does this sound right? Could it not be the alternator?

Unfortunately, my warranty runs out in 2 days, so I want the problem diagnosed & fixed correctly.
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Hi barbidahl56,

It could be the battery if it is really dead, internal broken circuit or the alternator.

Keep record of what had been done. Even if out of warranty, you still can get them to rectify whatever related to a problem that occurred within warranty. Remind the dealer about it.
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CED1191
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 35,000 MILES
I have a 2005 Accord with a new battery(three months old)and when left not started for more than three days the battery goes dead.

I can not find anything(lights, etc.)Of which have been left on to drain the battery.

Twice in the last six weeks this has occured.

Any ideas please as to why this battery continues to go dead?

It has been tested as a good battery and was purchased at Auto Zone.

Thank you
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
You have a parasitic drain somewhere. I would recommend bringing it to a shop to test this, it can be quite time consuming.

Basically what is happening is a certain circuit is not turning off or shutting down and is draining the battery slowly.
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JKELLEHER1000
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2003 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
My car has an intermittent cranking problem. I've had two new Costco batteries in the last year, and both do the exactly the same thing. Every once in a while, the thing just goes rrrrrrr. And after a while, it finally starts. Sometimes you have to wait for several minutes before it will miraculously start, in the meantime the engine will barely crank, or not crank at all.

Unloaded voltage on the battery is about 12.6 volts, and with the system running, it's over 14 volts. Today it was dead for about 5 minutes, then came back like a champ. Tried running the headlights on high beam with the engine off to load the battery down. Let it discharge for 10 minutes, but after that it still started like a champ, turning over immediately.

Any ideas as to what it could be?
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Either you have a bad connection at the battery (terminals corroded or loose) or the ground from the battery to the engine block is loose or corroded. Or, the starter is going bad.
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JKELLEHER1000
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Thanks for the response. Terminals are squeaky clean. Ground looks good, too.

Can a starter be intermittent like that, and just 'come back' like nothing ever was wrong?
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Yes, starters do that because they wear on the inside (field winding) and can make contact on and off. Also, the solenoid can cause it on the starter. Try something stupid for me. The next time it doesn't start, tap on the starter with a hammer. (Not too hard) See if it works then.

Also, before purchasing a new starter, you should remove it and have it bench tested. Most parts stores will do it for free.
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JKELLEHER1000
  • MEMBER
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Great feedback. Thanks again for your replies. You guys are really helpful.
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
We're glad to help. Let me know how things go for you.
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Friday, December 11th, 2020 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)

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